No agitation?
first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle?
You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube.
If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good
( If No wash- thenTHE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well.
Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ?
Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open.
Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually.
# 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch.
(where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open.
.
If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? )
or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt .
Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator.
Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub)
Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
No spin, or lite spin try these: bare in mind that many times there is no spin it can be due to a clogged water pump so check it for debris and or broken propeller.
Other items to check Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. Bare in mind the lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, motor coupler, brake assembly, transmission, and mode shifter or actuator. one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand.
Or try the hand test:
If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test.WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a ****** *****. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day.
- put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand
- turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin
- if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand
- if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced.
Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either)
Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle.
On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly.
The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.
Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller.Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage.
LIDSWITCH TEST- next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block
If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer.
Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN
By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!
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SOURCE: Whirlpool Duet Washer Trouble Code F25
TOP SOLUTION
The thing is most people have never used a washing machine before, its alright. If you like calling Whirlpool they will track your phone number and in the future they know you like to buy repair parts. The front load washer for the home is a new concept especially with steam etc. use patience and common sense. no washer can really wash 15 pairs of jeans and spin 150 miles an hour several times a week in this you must see the problem . so use common sense when filling the drum and do not use the highest spin cycle unless you are washing very light items. to fix f25 (happened to me after 1 month and I purchased a floor model) the fix is easy and does not involve a circuit board even though there are many buttons that light up. A repair man would love to order you any part you want plus markup, suggest the balancing mechanism and you will have made a new friend. give it up if you know you had to push on the door , maybe take a running jump to get it to close.you cannot wash a months worth of clothes all at once 1. unplug unit 2. remove 2 to 3 screws from bottom of front panel 3. next gently check connections, some may need tightening but again be patient and use appropriate pliers but mainly use gentle pressure 4.many will discover how simple it would be to work on the washer especially if you opted for the pedestals (worth every penny) 5. notice the drain trap cleaning access white and circular and turns, with a towel underneath open and clean trap at least once a year ...before replacing panel do a test rinse and spin. you will notice that once the f25 code appears there is no resistance to turning the drum this only helps to protect certain parts, once the appropriate wire is no longer loose this resistance is no longer...test but still be patient wait while the machine goes through the motions. don't start pushing every button. drum starts turning properly then replace panel. there is taped to the panel a manual with a breakdown of all the error codes. remember this is a very expensive piece of merchandise and will do for you what dry cleaners would have done for you (yes it has a wash by hand button and the machine will not spin to remove water in clothes on this selection, it will only turn to agitate , just remove clothes, hand wring out into the drum then hang or place in a plastic bag and refrigerate for a day or so until you can hang items)** I was able to my surprise wash a 110 year old linen tablecloth using this feature (soak items that require special stain removers and rinse before putting them in this machine. this machine is fantastic BUT be patient, and do not overload and do not spin everything on the highest setting. In being patient I was able to wash a king size comforter and the slip covers of a 90" sofa (not together) the machine can do this, not every day, but choose the correct setting such as bulky or heavy duty and select appropriate settings. I know for the money one should not have to take off the front panel but remember the machine weighs 200 pounds and coming from whatever factory one can only imagine what happens to machines that are abused in transportation. The key is to be patient and use common sense, if waiting on the machine to finish or the door to unlock ( the reason for the multiple locking steps is to allow those who have decided to get into the machine the opportunity to get out) then I will use the dreaded word of multitask otherwise enjoy the experience. I know I love mine!!!
SOURCE: Kenmore HE2 plus front loading washer f25
F25 indicates a possible drive motor tachometer error. (NOTE: The tech sheet is located behind the front quarter panel– remove the three hex head screws at the very bottom to remove the panel. The tech sheets will be folded up in a little plastic pouch.
The f25 error code is a motor tachometer error. To determine the problem you will have to remove the top cover and the front access panel. On some models, the rear panel will have to be taken off for easier access to the motor control. Now with the washer-unplugged remove the each plug one at a time and make sure the pins in the connector are not bent then reseat them on the board. Now retest the washer. If the washer still fails, you will need a meter to ohm the motor.
With the washer unplugged, locate the motor harness. Now unplug the motor connector to ohm the motor. Follow the list below to check the motor.
* Pin 1 to 3 6 ohms
* Pin 1 to2 6 ohms
* Pin 2 to 3 6 ohms
* Pin 4 to5 115 ohms
If the readings are close to what is listed above the motor is fine.
Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times. If you are not comfortable working with live electricity I suggest you call an experienced service technician. I have provided you with a wire diagram with what the voltages should be. If the voltages are correct I would then recommend that you replace the motor control.
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,ssqftgqdqbftqgbxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/sbbsgkqrgxstbrqrgwf/1/1303472/5961857/image5533851340308453439img-or.jpg
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,ssqftgqgtstgdfrxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/wwkfkbqwwxkftrskdkw/1/1303472/5961857/image1769329000959650960img-or.jpg
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SOURCE: whirlpool washer wfw8400tw codef25
F25 indicates a possible drive motor tachometer error. (NOTE: The tech sheet is located behind the front quarter panel- remove the three hex head screws at the very bottom to remove the panel. The tech sheets will be folded up in a little plastic pouch.
The f25 error code is a motor tachometer error. To determine the problem you will have to remove the top cover and the front access panel. On some models, the rear panel will have to be taken off for easier access to the motor control. Now with the washer-unplugged remove the each plug one at a time and make sure the pins in the connector are not bent then reseat them on the board. Now retest the washer. If the washer still fails, you will need a meter to ohm the motor.
With the washer unplugged, locate the motor harness. Now unplug the motor connector to ohm the motor. Follow the list below to check the motor.
* Pin 1 to 3 6 ohms
* Pin 1 to2 6 ohms
* Pin 2 to 3 6 ohms
* Pin 4 to5 115 ohms
If the readings are close to what is listed above the motor is fine.
Live voltage checks are dangerous, and possibly deadly. Exercise caution at all times. If you are not comfortable working with live electricity I suggest you call an experienced service technician. I have provided you with a wire diagram with what the voltages should be. If the voltages are correct I would then recommend that you replace the motor control.
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,ssqftgqdqbftqgbxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/sbbsgkqrgxstbrqrgwf/1/1303472/5961857/image5533851340308453439img-or.jpg
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,ssqftgqgtstgdfrxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/wwkfkbqwwxkftrskdkw/1/1303472/5961857/image1769329000959650960img-or.jpg
http://media.fotki.com/1_p,ssqftgqbrdddksdxgtqsskgwtqkq,vi/stbrqrgwfxsbdkgqfbr/1/1303472/5961857/image5269611314094350944img-or.jpg
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
SOURCE: Whirlpool LSC8244DQ0 Top Load Washer won't agitate, won't spin, will fill and drain
you need a new lid switch google model number and order new one
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