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SOURCE: defrost thermostat connector
Where is the defrost heater? If it is below the problem area, I don't think it is a defrost problem. This sounds like low freon. The symptoms of this are heavy frost on only part of the coils. Try deforsting with a hair dryer and putting it back together. Wait about 3 hours and look again. If there is frost only on part of the coils that is bad. The most this unit could defrost is every 4 hours, most are on 8 or 12 hour cycles. On most units the defrost timer shuts off the compressor and gives current to the defrost heater/s through the defrost thermostat. This thermostat is closed below 15 degrees and opens at a much higher temp after sensing the heat. This shuts off the heat usually before the timer and lets the water drip down where it should go. Then the timer turns the compressor back on and removes current from the defrost system. A common defrost problem is if the doors are left open for a LONG time or not shut all the way. Sometimes it causes so much ice that it can't melt with just one defrost cycle. This problem builds as if air flow is restricted it causes even more frost and gets worse. If this ever happens , just find the defrost timer and turn it very slowly click by click just until the compressor stops. Let it defrost , then do it again in about 2 hours. If it is a low freon problem there may still be a partial warrenty left sometimes the sealed system is guarenteed ror 5 - 10 years. Sometimes if it is not covered it is not worth fixing.
SOURCE: how to remove front panel and front shroudand lift the top cover?
Open the door.
Remove 4 screws in side door frame.
Lift door up on hinge side and remove the door.
Front panel will snap out and off.
Remove screws in the front top right and left corners to remove the top.
SOURCE: icey coils,replaced bunrt defrost heater coils still ice up
Replace defrost timer and defrost thermostat.
SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control
It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze
SOURCE: Replacing Defrost Heater and Bracket in Freezer Section of Fridge
I ended up having to remove things in this order: all shelves, ice maker insert, ice maker top ice tray, ice maker lower motor housing, shelving support rails (2), rear evaporator coil cover. This exposed the evaporator coils (which were already dry since the fridge had been off for two days) and most importantly, the defrost heater element below the coils. The heater element was easily unplugged from it's two connectors. I tested the unit with an ohm meter and it indicated it was open (infinity resistance). I then knew it was bad. I replaced it with a new unit and put everything back together in reverse order taking care to use the same screws. The fridge appears to be back in working order.
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