So many possibilities to list.
A defrost timer may be in the bottom front, can be turned to take it out of defrost cycle.
The compressor top may either feel hot too touch or a line is frozen, time to unplug it and defrost it a day or two.
Fan motors may need oiling or have bad bearings...
Hi
sounds like the freezer part has an ice blockage the clicking may well be the fan chipping at ice and no air flow will mean the freezer is partialy working yey not allowing cold air to fridge
if this is the case to proove point give unit a good defrost for as long as possible then turn unit back on
if this works it will require a service engineer to check the defrost cycle of the unit is no longer failing
good luck
SOURCE: Maytag Performa Model # PSB2151GRW Fridge is
the exach reason for this problem is listed here please know the problem
Compressor won't run or it is "clicking' on and off: This normally could be a bad start relay and over load for the compressor, dirty condenser coils need cleaning, condenser fan motor is not running or the compressor itself. To check the compressor properly you should test it with an amp meter, each compressor is rated in running amps ( see model/serial tag or the sticker on the compressor )...if the compressor is drawing too much current, this may be why it is shutting off. Check the model tag for proper amp rating. Some relays will be easy to notice the broken with them, they may be burnt. Example one, example two, example three. Some of these relays can be removed and give them a little shake, and if they rattle around inside the relay is likely bad. Compressors can also seize and click on and off or one of the electrical windings inside the compressor could have opened up. You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install a replacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed
or
Older refrigerators had electric heaters on the edges of the refrigerator cabinet to help prevent moisture from building up, especially in the hot/hazy weather in the summer time. These electric heaters usually had a switch where you could turn them on or off...had words like..."switch here to prevent moisture"...switch here in damp weather".... in the picture it is in the top left of the control assembly.
Then along came the energy crunch. The manufactures stopped using the electric heaters and started running a pass of the hot condenser tubing on the edges of the cabinet where the electric heaters use to be. This is often called a yoder loop tube SxS version and the yoder loop tube Top freezer version. This has now replaced the electric heaters. If you feel heat/hot around the door opening of your refrigerator you should....
- clean the condenser coils as a dirty condenser can make the tubing hotter than normal
- check/clean & replace if necessary the condenser cooling fan ( # F ) motor, if the condenser fan motor is slow or has quit the yoder loop pass will get very warm/hot to the touch
- If the condenser coils are clean and the condenser fan motor is running ok, check the fresh food and freezer section temperatures...if the refrigerator is not operating well and the temps inside are warming up, you could feel more heat/warmth than normal
SOURCE: fridge/freezer cooling inefficiently
Either the repair guy did not wire up the heater correctly or he replaced the wrong part, if the heater was good it was likley to be the defrost thermostat...I would call the repair guy back to check.
SOURCE: hi the bottom drawer of my fridge freezer is stuck
If a freezer ramains shut, it could take 72+ hours to melt the ice.
SOURCE: Hotpoint refrigerator hss25gfpj ww, clicking constantly, not cooling!!!
Recently had a friend with the same problem. Found that one of the power supplies on the board had a blown capacitor. This allowed the relay on the board to energize but not enough voltage was being sent to hole the relay closed. Basically a blown board was the problem. I found the wiring diagram very informative, it was hidden behind the temprature potentiometers.
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Can't be the fan clicking turned both dials to off but still clicking every few seconds
ahhhh bad news im afraid as that sounds like a compressor failing ... at times it can be the start relay but rarely the hummmmmm click stop then try again is usualy the compressor
The white plastic strip on the inside left hand door is getting hot fridge compartment not cooling
that is the frost free component warming which usualy means compressor is running... an engineer call is required to confirm if comp is actually running refridgerant and not just clicking
The fridge vents little bit of air coming out every few seconds
could be blocked from vent from freezer to fridge.. try a full defrost and see if cures problem... if it does it will still require a defrost heater check...
If there is a solid chunk, frost ice behind the vents, it must be cleared out, then it is obvious the defrost feature has failed or it was accidently induced.
Let it defrost a couple of days with the doors open, put the fridge out of service until it completely defrosts. Then power it up again and watch what it does next.
It may need to be disassembled to inspect heaters and defrost thermostats within the chilling ducts and vents if it acts up again right away, within a month. In some cases fridges can't be disassembled when severely frosted behind internal panel covers.
Clicking may be a damper door actuator (gear motor) jammed by frost.
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