Tryint to repair a 1960s ge radio tuner string found a few videos and none match what i have in front of me its a ge modle number t1250a

Good question, tuners can be simple and some are complicated
a basic automatic guitar tuner you would not have to do anything to the settings, just tune normal on the E string then slowly down tune to D most tuners are a little sensitive, so go slow
and one thing I always do is go lower than the note I'm tuning to then tune up tell it's correct, strings seem to stay in tune better
Hope this helps ?
and if you have time check back on my profile
I will be doing some video tips this weekend
showing tuning, and some basic guitar repairs
thanks for your time

if its in playable condition with no stress issues a fender villager could be worth between $450 and $1500

Unfortunately, the manual on
http://www.korg.com/us/products/tuners/ga_40/

indicates that 12 string is not supported.

The owners manual can be downloaded at
http://i.korg.com/uploads/Support/GA40_EFG1_633661472559800000.pdf

The YouTube tutorial is at
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Of4CRajvq0E

with a 12 string, you can often tune the octave until the tuner sees the matching note. It won't see the correct string number, but an A note is an A note, whether or not it's an octave higher.

Hope that this helps.

I am not sure if you know what the "nut" is... it is the little bar that the strings go over after they leave the tuners. If this is what you are refering to, the "nut" just rest at the end of the fret board and is held in place by string tension. You orient it so the one flat side goes down and rests on the neck and the other flat side rests agains the fret board end. You USUALLY do not adjust this unless the string height is wrong at the end of the neck nearest the tuners. Essentially you just seat it and then the string tension holds it in place... The only adjustment available is to lower it by taking material off by sanding OR to put a few layers of parchment paper beneath it.
Hopefully this is the nut you are talking about and not the truss rod adjustment which, unless you are experienced, you should NOT attempt to change. If you have disturbed the truss rod, take it to a guitar shop for repair.

Before turning the unit on, press and hold down the calib/batt switch to check the condition of the battery on the battery meter.

Then either plug in your electric guitar to the input side of the AG-6 or if tuning an acoustic guitar without electronics placing the AG-6 near the front of the guitar should work. You will not need to press a button to select which string you are about to tune. The AG-6 will detect it and the corresponding light will turn on when it is tuned within range.

Turn on the AG-6 and start by striking the low E (thickest) string while open. This is the number 6 string or 6E. Slowly turn the guitars low E tuning key untill the red LED below the 6E marking on the AG-6 lights up. Continue stricking the open string and turning the key untill the needle centers on zero and the 6E light remains on.

Repeat this for the open A string untill the 5A light turns on and the needle centers on zero.

Repeat for the remaining four strings, 4D 3G 2B and 1E, being careful not to over tighten and break them.

Tip: It may be a good idea once the low E string is tuned, to tune the rest manually, especially new strings or strings way out of tune. Then tune again using the AG-6 tuner.
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If installing fresh strings you will probably need to stretch each string and re-tune, possibly several times, before they hold their tuning.

well i hope you've figured it out by now, it's a really cool looking tuner and i love it. but if you are still having problems...
the switch on the left side: OFF, ON, LMP (ON with a little light so you can see in the dark)
The number and letters you see across the top of the interface indicate which string it is tuning to. 6E is the low E string (the thickest one) and 1E is the high E string (the thin one on the bottom of the guitar), i've seen many people get confused when they've tuned those two.
You can leave the tuner in auto and it will pick up what string you are trying to tune. but if you are having problems getting the correct string or whatever the case is, you can switch to manual mode. click the only button on the tuner and the specific string will light up on the interface.
If you press and hold the button, the tuner will go into flat mode, tuning all the strings flat.
once you have the right string and you're tuning it in, you want the needle to be centered.
that's pretty much it. enjoy!

Usually you have either loops or little metal spools in loops at the end of the strings. The little spools are put down into the slots to secure the strings. If your old strings have the spools, you can remove them and put into your new strings.

If you have a floating bridge such as a flloyd rose you will have this problem unless you followed the instructions for changing strings. The instructions are on the net for various manufacturers. Ibanez, BC Rich and flloyd rose all have good instructions. There are other good sites to explain bridge and intonation adjustments. You have to remember that new strings have to stretch in before they can be tuned accurately. My son has a Jemm that he does one string at a time and lets them sit. You also have to take string guage into account. Different guages tune differently especially if you are mixing the guages. http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/Electric_Guitar_Intonation.htm is a good place to start. Hope this helps.

after tuning ....put a capo on ... if this stops the problem then the cause must either be
1 the string catching in the top nut or
2 a faulty machine head
if it still goes out of tune with the capo on then look at where the ball end of the string sits