Thermal limiter stops dryer; replaced multiple times. Dryer dead.

If your Kenmore electric dryer has stopped drying, there could be several reasons why:

1. Check the Power Supply: First, make sure the dryer is plugged in and that the circuit breaker hasn't tripped. If you have an electric dryer, make sure the outlet is functioning properly.
2. Check the Thermal Fuse: A blown thermal fuse can cause the dryer to stop heating. The thermal fuse is usually located on the blower housing or at the dryer's heat source. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the thermal fuse.
3. Check the Heating Element: A defective heating element can also cause the dryer to stop heating. The heating element is usually located behind the dryer drum. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the heating element.
4. Check the High-Limit Thermostat: A faulty high-limit thermostat can cause the dryer to stop heating. The high-limit thermostat is usually located on the heating element housing. Use a multimeter to check for continuity. If there is no continuity, replace the high-limit thermostat.

If the dryer will not turn off, the problem could be a faulty timer or a stuck relay. You may need to have a technician diagnose and repair the issue.

probally the heeting element

It could be a number of things, but i would start with these first:
THERMAL FUSE.
The thermal fuse is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating. Once a dryer's thermal fuse has blown, it is no longer of any use. If your dryer's fuse is blown, you will have to replace it. Open up your dryer's cabinet and locate its thermal fuse so that you can test it.

There are also a couple of 'thermostats' that could be the problem:
The 'high limit thermostat' is a safety device mounted on the heating chamber and is designed to prevent the dryer from overheating when the exhaust vent is restricted. A restricted vent will cause the high limit thermostat to trip or activate, interrupting the circuit to the heating element or gas valve. The high limit thermostat is not designed to activate repeatedly like a cycling thermostat and will eventually fail causing a no heat symptom. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. If there is no continuity then it will need to be replaced and the restricted vent system corrected as well.
OR:
Cycling thermostats control the temperature inside the dryer drum. They are designed to "cycle" the heating element on and off to maintain the correct amount of heat. Cycling thermostats are normally located on the blower housing or elsewhere in the internal airflow ducting. Over time, the cycling thermostat can become defective. Disconnect the power to the dryer and check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter.
I hope this helps you fix the problem.

All Kenmore Electric Dryers use a thermal cut-off or thermal cut-out, hi-limit thermostat, and a cycling thermostat apart from the motor centrifugal switch as parts of the heating circuit. The thermal cut-off/thermal cut-out and the hi-limit thermostat are located on the heater duct/element duct while the cycling thermostat is located on the blower housing.







The thermal cut-off/cut-out serves as a safety measure and blows open should the dryer overheats or should the hi-limit thermostat fails to cut off power to the heating element. Check the continuity of the thermal cut-off/cut-out and if open, replace it including the hi-limit thermostat.

The cycling thermostat must also be replaced when replacing the thermal fuse. The cycling thermostat's failure to cycle off the heating element results in overheating of the dryer which consequently blows the thermal fuse open.




Replacing only the thermal fuse should the dryer stops running and fails to start will result in its premature blowing or even the thermal cut-out (cut-off) located on the heater duct. Like the cycling thermostat, the high-limit thermostat must also be replaced once the thermal cut-out blows open. Refer to the parts diagram in the link below and look for item numbers 31(thermal cut-off), 34(hi-limit thermostat), 39(thermal fuse), and 41(cycling thermostat.

Kenmore Series 70 Electric Dryer (110.74722400) Bulkhead Parts

Any time a thermal cut off blows, it's because the cycling thermostat is bad. When it's bad, the machine cycles off of the thermal cut off rather than the cycling thermostat allowing the dryer to over heat. The thermal cut off is a re-setting safety and is not made to cycle off of. The thermostat you are looking for looks like a high limit thermostat but it cuts power to the element at a lower temp. Around 158 degrees + or - 25 degrees. It's located close to the high limit. It's a normally closed switch that opens on the rise and it will show closed now but the problem with it is that will not open. Replace it and your problem will be solved. Good luck.

your cycling thermostat needs changed too. the thermal fuse is your last safety measure that goes, which means your cycling thermostat is not shutting down the heat element once it detects the right temp hot air in the blower housing so it let the heat element glow until either the high-limit sensor shuts the heat down or the thermal fuse blows. Change the cycling thermostat and good luck

the thermal is on the heater box on the right side it has two white wires going to it
you need to remove the high limit stat and bracket and the heating element to get to the safety stat

there are several issues that can cause this most common is the vent restricted backing up heat in the dryer if its as old as you say you need to check the whole vent system it has to be 4inches dia all the way if its mashed or drooping under the house its restricted if its folded over or mashed behind the dryer its restricted the thermal limiter is a safety thermostat it opens about 300 degrees to prevent fire the dryer has three thermostats an operating thermostat a safety thermostat and the thermal limiter if the operating thermostat fails then the safety thermostat takes over and cycles on about 165 on and off if both thermostats fail then the thermal limiter opens about 220-300 depending and it doesn't reset and cuts all the power to the dryer till a tech can check everything i just told you about so if your vent is clear and the best way to vent is 4inch pvc drain pipe 90 it up behind the drier then connect with a short peice of metel vent then just replace all three thermostats

i have replaced TH2 in my dle0322 about 6 times now. It never lasts more than a month. What could be causing this?