It's up to temperature and the heat shows green but the motor is still on. Does the motor ever shut off on my saluspa?

If your new Saluspa is not heating above 95°F, there are a few things you can try:

1. Check the water temperature: First, make sure that the water temperature is actually below 95°F. You can use a thermometer to check the temperature of the water in your spa. If the water is already at 95°F or higher, your spa may not be designed to go above that temperature.
2. Check the filter: Make sure that the filter in your spa is clean and not clogged. A dirty filter can reduce water flow, which can impact the heating of the spa.
3. Check the water level: Ensure that the water level in your spa is high enough. If the water level is too low, it can cause the spa to overheat or shut off entirely.
4. Check the thermostat: Make sure that the thermostat on your spa is set to a temperature above 95°F. If it is set correctly and the water temperature is still not rising, there may be an issue with the thermostat that requires professional repair.
5. Check for blockages: Make sure that there are no blockages in the pipes or jets of your spa that could be limiting the flow of water and causing the water to not heat properly.

If none of these steps work, it may be best to contact the manufacturer or a professional spa repair service for further assistance.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:



Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)



Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or

overheating.



The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.





Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,



OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.



Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.

For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.



In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)



Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.

Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.



Read more :



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g



http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.



GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

If it's tripping, you've got a short, probably water where it doesn't belong. Unplug and inspect the unit. Hopefully you'll find a bad or missing seal.

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:



Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)



Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or

overheating.



The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.





Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,



OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.



Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.

For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.



In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)



Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.

Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.

A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.



Read more :



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g



http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.



GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMP7BW1lLs4

The pump will only operate when the ambient temperature is above 4?C. EO3 Temperature too low The pump thermometer is broken. If your pump is displaying this message and the ambient temperature is above 4?C. Please contact us for more help.

Dryer will not shut off:
The timer: Located in the control console of the dryer the timer consists of a small motor connected to a series of gears that rotate cams, which turn electric contacts off and on inside the timer. The timer contacts control the dryer motor as well as the heat circuit and the timer motor itself. A defective timer motor or a defect in the timer's electrical contacts can cause the timer motor to fail and the timer will need to be replaced. The contacts can be checked for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made when the dryer is unplugged. Another test u can do is observe by eyesight and see does the timer advance or is it stuck on one cycle?
1. On gas and electric dryers that have an "Auto Dry" cycle, the cycling thermostat is often used to advance the timer as well regulate the drum temperature. Essentially, thermostat will alternately turn on the heat source or the timer motor when the temperature has been satisfied. To check this thermostat, you will have to check for power to the timer motor with a multi-meter, during a cycle. This is a live voltage test and caution should be used.
2. Some dryers will use a cool down thermostat to tumble the clothes without heat, at the end of the dry cycle. Power is routed through this thermostat to the drive motor to keep it running until the drum temperature has dropped to a specific temperature. If this thermostat fails it can cause the drum to turn indefinitely or until the door is opened. You can check the thermostat for continuity with a multi-meter. This test should only be made with the power removed from the dryer.
Lastly check the moister sensor for OHMS according to ur schematic as it must show a certain amount of ohms as per ur unit. When unit has been on short while

thermostat my be brokenit thinks its hot so it shuts the heat off....

ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:

Check your venting and lint basket. Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or overheating.

Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually) Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.

Read more :http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.html

Here is the reason for that problem per the manufaturers web-site

http://www.haywardnet.com/products/Manuals/pdfs/Manual122.pdf

The low-pressure switch senses the refrigerant pressure in the sealed refrigeration system to

protect against certain conditions that could be detrimental to compressor life. The switch shuts

the unit down in the event of loss of refrigerant, fan motor failure, evaporator freeze-up and

airflow blockage. The switch automatically resets when the pressure rises to normal operating

pressures. The display will show "LP" if this switch is tripped.

Evaporator Freezing

The low-pressure switch will shut the heat pump down when the evaporator starts to freeze.

When the unit starts to freeze the low-pressure switch will be tripped, causing the display to read
"LP" This will prevent the evaporator from becoming damaged or deformed.

If the air outside the heat pump is not warm enough to produce heat, the system will shut down.

The actual point at which your unit will shut down due to low temperature varies depending on

which model you purchased, current weather conditions, and the amount of sunlight reaching the

heat pump. The shutdown can occur anywhere within a wide range of temperatures, usually 45°F-

55°F. This is not a "fixed" range. We stress that climate conditions, sunlight, and various models

respond quite differently to low ambient temperature. A shutdown occurs because low

temperatures will activate the systems low-pressure safeguard switch (digital thermostats will

display a code "LP".) The unit will start up again when the temperature has raised enough to reset

this switch. Note: Low ambient temperature does not necessarily affect the Chiller models
or the cooling cycle of the heat/cool units.

If this post has helped you, please take the time to vote positively for me on this site. If you need additional help, I can be reached @: [email protected]

thanks,

adam