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How to setup/configure a bi-metal by-pass on a KitchendAid refrigerator?

I'm having a Refrigerator Kitchen Aid model KRFF507ESS for the past 2 years. Since I bought this application I'm having an issue with the refrigerator defrost. The freezer section works just fine but in the refrigerator section the coil always froze up, to the point their is not more air circulation and the refrigerator is warming up. During the winter, I need to unfreeze the Coil every 2nd or 3rd month, while in Summer, when the humidity is higher, I need to unfreeze the coil every 2nd or 3rd week. I called Kitchend Aid twice and they change many components, without any success. Always the same problem... I decided to run some Service Check based on their Tech Sheet. I checked the defrost Mode and changed it from Automatic every 8 to 96 hours to basic every 8 hours. I did not see too much difference. I've also run their Service Test #6: Defrost Heater/Bi-Metal Based on this test, the documentation says that if the bi-metal is opened, it will need to be bypassed for heater to operate. When checking the value on my fridge, it says this is open... This may be the source of my problems... As a newbie and do not know nothing about this and how create/setup this bypass, I'll need some guidance / help here. If you have any idea, it will be highly appreciate. Thank you in advance. Roger

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  • KitchenAid Master
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Why not contact KitchenAid again and explain that you have performed the service checks their technician(s) should have performed and the bi-metal (switch) is at fault. Perhaps another visit from a competent technician or that technician's manager will result in success.

Posted on Jun 30, 2019

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Sea Breeze

John Tripp

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SOURCE: evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control

It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

John Hall

  • 1218 Answers

SOURCE: What is function of bi-metallic thermostats in

Good day,
The bi-metal or also called a limiter or defrost thermostat is wired in series with the main heater.
When the timer switches the machine from the running mode to the defrost mode, it shuts off all cooling and turns the main heater on. This could be anywhere from 21 minutes to 35 minutes. The bimetal is a thermostat. It shuts the main heater off when the coil reaches approx. 50 degrees. Without it, the machine would get extremely hot, defrosting all the food, and in some cases even begin to melt plastic parts in the freezer compartment. It's also a safety device, in case the timer went into defrost and failed there. Without it, it would totally destroy the machine, even to the point of creating a possible fire hazard.

Posted on Jun 12, 2010

Testimonial: "Thanks for the info. When I took the freezer section apart I had to use a hair dryer to remove the insulation as it had chunks and sheets of ice attached and imbedded in the evaporator coil. All meat though especially in bottom of basket had defrosted and ruined. I turned timer to defrost and heater coil began heating up. Fridge and freezer not cooling as cold as used to. Looks like bimetal thermostat and heater working. Could it be bimetal thermostat not turning off soon enough. But why would evaporator core be freezing but ice container which is on front door of freezer is thawing ice and will have water in it from melting. "

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I am looking for defrost thermostat for Refrigerator Kitchen Aid Model KSRS251LSS02 Serial


I am not sure if you want a part# or the location of the part. The part # is 2196155 for this model and it is located behind the evap cover in the freezer section clipped to the top of the evap. I should mention that this model has an electronic control that can be put into diagnostics to check each component. This control fails as well! If the freezer is cold then you can test the thermostat (also called bi-metal) to see if it is good or bad. If it is black like in the picture then you need to ohm it but if it is metal with a blue top then look for lifting of the blue part as water gets in there and ruins the part.
images-3dvc3rq02kdqjihqd3tusqf5-3-1.jpg

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KitchenAid KBRS19KTMS Owner Manual
see page 16, moisture buildup

consider:
draw not closing tightly enough or not closing all the way
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1 Answer

My freezer is building ice and building in the freezer and behind the panel where the fan is. then it will not freeze. sometimes 3 days to make 1 ice tray. The refrigerator is not cooling and there is...


sound like you have a defrost problem. The evaporator is behind the panel where the fan is. YOu will need to remove the panel, and test some of the defrosting components. Behind that panel are the heater and bi-metal. ( Bi-metal is also called defrost terminator ) the bi-metal looks like a little cylinder ( about the size of a stack of 8 quarters ) it should be attached to the freezing coils. With the refrigerator unplugged, make sure you have continuity through the bi-metal. This may involve cutting the wires to check, so leave enough wire to be able to splice back together if the bi-metal is good. ( The bi-metal must be ice cold before it will have continuity through it, as the heater heats up the coils it warms the bi-metal enough to loose continuity, therefore shutting the heater off ). Now with the bi-metal cold and no continuity through it, replace the bi-metal. If there is continuity, then check the heating element for continuity at both ends of its wires. If yu can check the ohm load on the heater it should read somewhere around 28ohms. If all these parts are good then it would have to be the defrost timer. If you had the model # I could go into further details on how to check the timer. Hope this helps

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Water not flowing from Kitchen Aid Refrigerator. I've switched the filter and it has not resolved the problem. the unit is one year old, was working properly. 2 days ago, water leaked from spout and that...


water maybe frozen somewhere in the system. may need to disconnect water connections at various points and retry to narrow down where freeze up is at.

Jan 06, 2010 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

Sope dispenser will not open when running


Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Many dishwashers (but not all) use a BI-metal strip that heats up once power is applied to it. The BI-metal strip bends and allows the soap door spring to open up the dispenser. This bi-metal strip is not given full 120 volts power, the timer "shunts" the power through either the heating element ( most common ) or the motor and this gives the bi-metal strip lower than full power to work and open.

Most often the bi-metal strip has lost its ability to bend properly and needs to be replaced. Older Kitchen-aid dishwashers used a mechanical arm driven by the timer to open the dispenser = no electrical bi-metals. Newer (plastic liner) Kitchen-aid dishwashers use a wax motor to open the soap dispenser. The plunger inside the wax motor slowly moves and pushes the plunger and door open. And, if this wax motor doesn’t receive 120 volts, then it’ll not work.



Please do rate this solution and revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Nov 03, 2009 | KitchenAid Dishwashers

1 Answer

Kitchen Aid model KSRJ25CNST00 refrigerator/freezer won't defrost automatically


HI. your unit is equipped with a defrost thermostat that is wired directly to the control board/PCb, and linked to the defrost element as well. this thermostat has failed, in return, not allowing the proper transfer of correct temp readings that the control uses to calculate the proper defrost cycle.

Replacing the defrost thermostat(Bi Metal) will fix this issue.

Sep 06, 2009 | KitchenAid Refrigerators

1 Answer

I have a Kitchen Aid refridgerator. My freezer


Hi, Check the rear inside panel of the freezer section and see if there is a frost build up. Also check and make sure the evaporator fan motor in the freezer is running.
If there is a frost build up, remove the rear indise panel and check the defrost heater and bi-metal switch for continuity. The bi-metal switch located on the top of the evaporator has to be tested while it is still cold.
If either of them show an open circuit, it will need replaced. If both of these parts show ok, you will need to replace the defrost timer/board.
Please let me know what you find and if I can assist you further.

Vic

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1 Answer

Compressor runs continuously, and center bar (heat dissipator) is extremely hot to touch.


Molly, The hot bar is a normal part of the sealed system (compressor) operation. The relay they told you about is on the back of the compressor and I would not recommend you changing that. The refrigerator is a balanced system, the freezer air removes the heat from the refrigerator side. If the compressor runs all the time, look for food close to the edge and not letting the doors close completely. Move items back. Don't over pack the freezer, the air must circulate. The refrigerator of today runs longer and uses less power that the old refrigerator. If you are still having issues with this model call a authorized Kitchen repair person in you area and ask how much they charge to come to your house and give an estimate.

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1 Answer

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There is a heating cable that runs down the door in most fridges it might have a relay that is fussed closed and the heater is always on. I would strongly recommend that you get someone out to look at it as all electrical faults can be quite serious if they are not treated.
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1 Answer

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