Hobart 120 won,t feed wire. unit has arc no feed

You are probably going to have to replace the complete assembly, and it is probably going to cost about $150. I would contact Hobart by phone with your serial #, and they should have the correct part# , since there is no parts list in your manual, and none seem to be available on line. BRwelders has part# 210010 listed but may not be correct, since it is for the 120.

http://www.brwelder.com/kit-feed-mot...er-120-210010/

Sound like you have a bad trigger on the gun. Does gas spray when you pull the trigger? Check the wire plug that goes from the pistol to the unit. It should be under the liner hose where it connects to the machine. Then use a voltage meter on the wires going to the drive feed motor, and see if you get current when you pull the trigger. If gas doesn't spray neither, sounds like you got a bad trigger switch

Check wiring diagram to see if it has a bridge rectifier. My 120 had one and it was bad which would not let the feed motor run. It cost me about $6.00 to replace from Ebay.

Arc blow could be the cause! Put your ground on the work piece and weld away from it. If you weld toward a ground clamp the magnetic forces will blow your arc around sometime. When taking a cert this simple mistake can make or break ya on your cap or reinforcement beads.

Check ground connection at welder along with your ground clamp. Bad connection could be the issue. Also check settings on your welder.

hi,
maybe you haven't got the wire speed control turned up probly not the answer but sometimes its the simply things.

I have welded countless hours with Linde & Lincoln & even a few Hobarts & the only time that I ever had the same problem was when the ground connection either to the object I was welding, or the welding cable ground wasn't good & clean & tight. Same on stick welders also. I did develop the habit of grinding not only where I was preparing to weld, but where I was placing my ground clamp & that always provided a better "frying bacon" sound as I went along the business of pushing a bead. In a welder, the only other thing than that is involved is the step-up transformer and your wire. Hope this helps.

Fist look and check the contact tip. ensure the tip is the correct size for the wire being used as well as the wire feed rollers. the contact tip is were the wire collects the power,
If it's only 3 day's old send it back, dont star strippin it down or you Garantee will be made invalid.
ken

check the diodes, one or both are blown.

If you are using flux wire and not shielding gas, your clamp should be positive and the wire should be negative. Heat is provided by the electrical arc that happens between the wire and the material. Your welder by itself does not pre heat the material and with 3/16 material you should not need to preheat anyway.

The electrical arc is kept consistent by adjusting the wire feed rate and the current applied. You will need to experiment with these settings to find what works best with your welder. For this welder and 3/16 material, I would suggest you start at the upper end of the current scale and about a third of the way up on wire speed. The welder might have a chart for these settings in the manual or inside cover.

If the wire feeds too fast, it will push the probe around and you will feel pressure as the wire feeds out. If the speed is too slow you will get large spatters and intermittent arcs. When properly adjusted the arc will sound even and consistent. The arc gap should always be about 1/8 of an inch.

To maintain enough heat for good penatration, do not move the probe too fast, work in a pattern and watch the weld pool (melted metal) and not the arc. Watching the weld pool will clue you in if you are moving too fast or too slow.

I hope this helps.

-Scott