Blower motor not blowing

According to my favorite HVAC buddy:

If your indoor fan isn't working it could be several things. Here are a few things to check before calling for service.
First make sure there is power to the indoor unit and that a switch or breaker isn't off. Then make sure your air filter isn't blocked. Sometimes that is the only problem. Some customers don't even know they have an air filter and it has never been checked. It can have a trash bag sucked up against it, or simply be clogged and dirty.Try setting the thermostat fan switch to the "on" position. Feel for air coming out of the vents.
If it is in the air conditioning mode, check for ice around the evaporator coil and refrigerant lines at the indoor unit. If the coil froze, the fan could be working but the air wont go through the ice until it melts. If the fan isn't working, that can cause the coil to freeze. If the coil is frozen, shut off the air conditioning immediately.
Some equipment still uses belt driven motors. Mostly furnaces only, not heat pumps. Sometimes the belts wear out, crack, and eventually break. If you take a look at the blower section of your heating system it is quite easy to see if you have a belt driven blower motor. You will see a motor sitting on top or next to a larger blower wheel connected by a fan belt.
Most fans are energized by a fan relay. This is probably the most common cause. The contacts inside the relay go bad. They usually stick open, never sending the signal to the motor. This is much easier and cheaper to repair than a motor going bad.
Of course, the motor can always go bad. Sometimes the bearings seize. Or the motor just burns up or weakens. Hope this helps.

You either have a blower that is gone out,or the start capacitor is bad,it is most likely the blower motor.

check capicitor on motor, fan motor bearings may be locking up when they get hot then when cooled the motor comes back on. Then you must replace fan motor.

ok if unit is split system two piece check to see if out door unit is running fan and compressor the air coming out of the fan should be about 20 deg warmer than out door temp if not compressor not running check the capicitor to see if swelled up on top if so bad if unit has electric heat strip a heat relay may be stuck and you are running aug heat to check this pull disconect on out door unit and see if heat is out of vents if heat pump reversing valve may be bad hope this helps

if your power vent moter is not running you should not have have glowing ignitor.Frist the vent moter must close an air prove switch in series with the idnitor .seems you have a stuck air prove switch.Its the one with a hose attached

maybe a motor or fan belt

One suggestion. Have you checked the fuses ?

I would check the AC or blower fuse to start with. If you have the drivers manual it will show you where the fuse box is. Typically there are at least two boxes to check. One in the Engine compartment and one in the passenger cabin.

Look inside the lid of the fuse box to see which fuse may apply to the AC circuits or the blower and check to see if they are blow. the metal link between the two posts that plug in. If the link is missing you need to replace the fuse with one of the same rating. Make sure you know where you took the fuse out from and put it back in the same slot if its good. Check all the main fuses if possible to see if any have blown and replace if they have.

Sounds like it could be a very weak run capacitor on the blower motor. Run capacitors are sized specifically to the needs of the motor. When a run cap gets weak, the motor trys to compensate for it by drawing more power. More power draw = more heat in the motor, then the motor will overheat and shut off to protect itself. When the motor cools off it will automatically restart and run until it overheats again. Keep in mind that I am a technician that normally diagnoses equipment in a hands on manner. There are many practices and concepts that transcend all air conditioning systems but it is a constantly evolving industry. I live in south eastern WA and I don't see Amana units except as window units. It is possible to have something else causing this problem (faulty thermostat, failing thermal relay(if used), problem with electronic controls(if used)) there are a lot of potential variables

Check for a frozen cooling coil. Turn the fan to the on position at the thermostat and the cooling to off. Your cooling coil may be iced over. Allow it to run in the fan only mode until the coil has had a chance to defrost. At the outside unit you may see the large line is frosted. This is the visual indication for a frozen coil. When you return the A/C to cooling use it with the fan on while in the cooling mode.

Yes, there is a flame sensor that will tell the gas valve to open, thus igniting the burners. When you say the fan is running is it the blower fan or the little exhaust fan connected to the vent. Because the blower fan should not come on when the burner is not firing. I think you need a new limit switch that or your thermostat is being being unreliable. Try by-passing the thermostat by jumping the red to white wires on it. They are only 24 volts so you need not to worry about being shocked (you may feel a slight tingle if the conditions are right) you do, however need to be careful not to touch any of the wires to anything else as it may blow out your transformer or the fuse protecting it, to see if it changes the problem. When the ignitor is clicking can you see spark jumping from the pilot to the probe? I will need more info to be more helpful.