Hi,The problem is I bought a used Dayton 2Z802C 115V 50/60Hz 1/15HP AC/DC gearmotor on ebay,there is four wires coming from the motor,red,yellow,black and blue.I whant to run the motor with a AC Variable speed control foot pedal.My question is what speed control pedal should I use and how should I wire the system up?please help,thanks. Best Regards Frank

https://www.amazon.com/Dayton-1LPU5-Gearmotor-Degrees_Fahrenheit-Volts/dp/B000BHCGU4

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Hey,

I would get a replacement ac adapter from www.ebay.com if you post me the details on the apdater I can look it up for you

Thanks,
Ekse

Dayton manufacturing is owned by WW Grainger
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=1TMY6&op=search&Ntt=1TMY6&N=0&GlobalSearch=true&sst=subset

Contact Grainger 1-800-323-0600
They will have wiring information for each of their products.

The wiring diagram should appear on side of unit.
This 1.5 Hp motor can be wired for 115 or 230 volts

My AO Smith manual would not be specific to your motor.
With AO Smith 115-230V, there are one set of wiring terminals for incoming wires from breaker box. The other wires connect to terminals.
Copy following illustration link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Motor-wiring-500.jpg

Wire and breaker size:
For 120Volt, use 20 amp breaker and 12 gauge wire up to 25 feet.
Over 25 feet up to 100 feet, use 30 amp breaker and 10 gauge wire.
100-150 feet use 8 gauge wire and 40 amp breaker.
150-200 feet use 6 gauge wire and 50 Amp breaker.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly

Download this manual and go to page 36 & 37 for testing steps and wiring diagram. NOTE the voltages will be 115V DC and ONE voltage that is 115V AC the freezer door switch must be taped in the closed position to get any power.

Pin 1 = 115VDC
Pin 2 = 115VDC
Pin 3 = 115 V AC / L1
Pin 4 not used
Pin 5 = Neutral
Pin 6 = ( Neg.) 115VDC
Pin 7 = (Pos.) 115DC

Pins and wire colors listed on page 37

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

you can reverse the rotation CCW to CW if you reverse the wiring on the brushes

My engineering experience tells me that this is likely caused by sudden acceleration or deceleration of the motor. Not knowing the type of load the motor is driving I can only point you to look for things causing sudden load changes. I would be tempted to install a soft start circuit or inrush current limiter that accelerates the motor slower or possibly install a flywheel to reduce acceleration/deceleration torque pulses. As a final suggestion, I would present the problem to the manufacturer of the appliance and the motor.

It is generally located on the nameplate of the motor or inside the wiring housing where the outside power is brought in. These motors are usually convertible from 115 to 230 volt by merely switching a couple of wiring connections inside the wiring housing. If you can do so, 230 volt operation is much preferred due to the high speed start-up available and you can use wiring 1/2 the size required for 115 volt operation. Good luck!

here you go http://www.google.com/images?q=dayton+barrel+switch+2X440A+wiring+diagram&hl=en&rlz=1D1DLUS_enUS358US358&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=univ&ei=vCoJTPOTL8KC8gaEppC5AQ&sa=X&oi=image_result_group&ct=title&resnum=1&ved=0CCoQsAQwAA

no . with out getting to complicated the motor is designed to operate at 60hz witch is the frequency the voltage is delevered to you at. A dimmer switch changes voltage (lowering voltage it dims your lights) lowering the voltage to a motor will raise the current (amps) create heat and kill the motor and probable the switch. Good news is you can purchase fairly cheap VF (variable frequency) drives that will do what ever you want word of caution running a motor at 30Hz or less (half speed) the motor will probably require an additonal cooling fan since its internal fan will be turning to slow to be effective
good luck

It shouldn't matter.
As the supply is voltage AC, at 115V RMS, it cycles from zero volts through +81.3V, through zero to -81.3V and back to zero. The P-P voltage is RMS x (sqrt2), or Excel 115*(2^.05) = 162.6V,
So as the sine-wave cycles continuously between positive and negative half-cycles, both power wires are 'hot' when motor is running.
The motor's direction will be controlled by a start-capacitor.
Another clue is that the manufacturer did not color-code the feed wires as in red and black.
DC, Direct Current, is polarized, whereas AC, Alternating Current, is not.