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i have 68 camaro with orginal sbc 350 and if you want to run a high dollar iridium ngk plug you would want the this one. NGK (7355) XR5IX Iridium IX. Honestly its a waste of money though a good copper core plug is much cheaper and the park is just as hot you will gain nothing from the high dollar plug performance wise. it may last a little bit longer but at the price of $6-8+ each they are not worth it when you can buy any name brand solid copper core plug for like $2 each and gap the plug make it a little hotter and your good to go!
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g
k r = resistor b=thread size = 14mm z 7 = heat range - NGK, the lower the number the hotter the plug. Other mfg. are opposite - higher number=hotter h = thread length =1/2"
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-10
These are THE important ones... the rest are mfg. specifics
If you go to NGKsparkplugs.com, go to the tab at the top labeled 'part finder', select chainsaw, select MCCulloch, 3200 series...you get that it is .025 and the plug should be a BPM6F if using a regular NGK plug. Hope this helps...
Normal settings 70 heating 74 to 76 cooling, I try to leave my cooling a 76 and keep it there. 76 degrees feels good if its 95 or hotter out side and the lower you set it the more it will cost.
The numbers 4 and 8 are heat ratings. The lower numbers run hotter. Different heat ratings allow you to choose the best compromise between keeping the plug from fouling and making the electrode last longer. If your plugs tend to foul, you need a hotter plug. If they tend to fry away, you need a cooler one. As engines get old, they tend to need hotter plugs. The differences in the heat ratings can be seen in subtle differences in the dimensions of the electrode (usually the center one) and the little insulator around the center electrode. The dimensional changes effect the heat transfer characteristics of the plugs, which changes how effectively the high temperatures present at the spark are conducted away. Besides the heat rating of the plug, the other big factor is having a nice clean thread surface in the engine block, which is why some mechanics will use a thread chaser when changing plugs. Here's a link to NGK's numbering meanings
http://www.ngk.com/sparkplug411_manufacturer.asp?manufacturerID=1
I hope you found this helpful.
NGK BR9EG is the stock plug for your bike. You are one heat range hotter already. I suggest you go to a BR8EG to keep you in the racing plug style but one range hotter than stock. I question what 2 stroke engine oil you are using. Stick with Yamalube 2 stroke oil and you should be okay. If you are using standard motor oil like you have in the gearbox then the fouling is definitely the oil.
The stock plug was an NGK-DPR6EA9. However, some bikes had NGK-DPR5EA9 as stock. I would start with the ...6EA9 and then go to the ...5EA9 if a hotter plug is needed.
yes the 8 is the hotter plug just for giggles how do you know that it's running lean? have you had someone put it to the 4or5 gas analyzer, NOT A DYNOJET DYNO? it's the only way to know for sure and by how much. the reason i say not the dyno-jet is because of the fact that it uses a wide band 02 sensor which in this case only gives a limited amount of info versus the 4gas. some people have said the hotter plugs has run better for them, but i can'tconfirm. i can confirm that i hadn't noticed much difference between the Iridium plugs and the stock. no improvement on the dyno and nothing really noticeable anywhere else. for the price of stock NGK's thats what i would stay with.
marco,,,
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