That fridge has 2 elements. A 12v and mains 240v/120v. Sounds like the mains element or the fuse has blown. The fuse box is in behind the fridge at the bottom. Follow the power cord to the box. There should be 3 fuses. Check them all. Using a multimeter, check the readings of both elements. Google " Dometic Service manual DM2652 pdf" and page 11 should help you.
SOURCE: Dometic rm7732 not cooling
Hi,
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.
First, answer these questions:
Next, see if the compressor motor is running
The
compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's
on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it
is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still
not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of
several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified
appliance repair technician for further help.
If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:
SOURCE: Dometic rm4223 wont run at all
Make sure you have 12 volt DC power to circuit board. If you do you need a circuit board.
SOURCE: RM2652 Refrigerator: I have a DM2652 model Dometic RV refer. It is leak...
Dometic Voluntarily Expands Refrigerator Recall
Dometic recently expanded its recall on a population of two-door refrigerators. The original recall included some two-door refrigerators manufactured between April 1997 and May 2003. The new recall focuses on models manufactured between June 2003 and September 2006.
To see if your unit is on the recall list & what to do, try the link below.
If your unit is on the list, DO NOT run your refrigerator on propane until the kit is installed
http://www2.dometicusa.com/recall.php
SOURCE: i have a dometic dm2652 rv fridge. its new and is
The DM2652 comes with an optional cooling fan to help with cooling the amonia. The fan cycles on and off as required as it has a tempeature sensor (thermistor). We turn ours off at night by removing the inline fuse (glass tube fuse 3 amp) located in your outside acces panel. The fuse is located in a black fuse holder with a re wire connecting both sides.
SOURCE: My dometic refrigerator unit is not cooling
my domestic refrg will not work on electric but will lite on gas. freezer will get cold on gas but bottom will not cool.you can plug refrg in and it will kick the gas off. you unplug refrg on gas will lite.that part of the power board seems to be working.
OPERATING MODES
AUTO MODE
Press the AUTO/MANUAL mode selector button (2) to the DOWN position. The AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will illuminate.
When operating in the AUTO mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will illuminate. The control system will automatically select between AC and GAS operation with AC having priority over GAS. If the control system is operating on AC energy and it then becomes unavailable, the system will automatically switch to
GAS. As soon as AC becomes available again the control will switch back to AC operation.
If 120 volts AC is not available, the control system will automatically switch to GAS operation. Within 45 seconds the burner should be ignited and operating normally. If unsuccessful, the CHECK indicator lamp (B) will illuminate.
To restart an ignition attempt with the CHECK lamp illuminated or to clear (turn off) the CHECK lamp, press the main power ON/OFF button to the OFF and then to the ON position. The control system will attempt a new 45 second ignition sequence.
On the initial refrigerator start-up on gas (120 volts AC is not available), it may take longer than 45 seconds to allow air to be purged from the gas line. If the refrigerator has not been used for a long time or the LP tanks have just been refilled, air may be trapped in the supply lines. To purge the air from the lines may require resetting the main power ON/OFF button (1) three of four times. If repeated attempts fail to start the LP gas operation, check to make sure that the LP gas supply tanks are not empty and all manual shutoff valves in the lines are open.
NOTE: DO NOT continue to reset GAS operation if the CHECK indicator lamp continues to be illuminated after 3 or 4 tries.
If 120 volts AC becomes available while the CHECK indicator lamp is on, the control system will switch to 120 volt AC operation, The CHECK lamp will not turn off until the main power ON/OFF button is pressed to the OFF then ON position.
In AUTO mode operation, the temperature is controlled by a single temperature setting.
MANUAL MODE
When operating in the MANUAL mode, the AUTO mode indicator lamp (A) will be off, and the refrigerator will run continuously on the energy source selected by the control system.
NOTE: The food in the lower compartment may be frozen if the refrigerator is left on "MANUAL" mode.
STANDBY MODE . .
This control system contains a feature that will continue to operate the cooling system in the event of a failure of a major operating component. If the control cannot read the temperature sensor and operate at the preset temperature, then the control will run the cooling unit like the MANUAL mode.The refrigerator will continue to operate in this mode indefinitely or until a new sensor is installed and the
system is reset.
I posted the above information from the contents of the service manual. I can help you but... at the moment for sure I have come to the conclusion that ONE of the lights your seeing is the CHECK light. The mystery is... what is the 2nd light your seeing? Manual of Stand-by?
I am pretty sure we can sort this out but... we need to really communicate clearly and well. In our posts here.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
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