I've taken it apart and cleaned the board with 99% isopropyl alcohol and it has gotten a little bit better but the sound still persists. Any suggestions on what's going on and how to fix it?
You didn't say whether the radio still worked ok apart from the noise...
Defective components can produce such noise as can a dry soldered joint - a dry joint is a fairly common fault.
A white type noise is typical of many types of receiver when the squelch is turned down. The squelch circuit is designed to reject signals that are too weak to receive with sufficient strength to be intelligible and in doing so also blocks the background "static". On many CB and VHF type receivers the squelch level is adjustable but tends to be either preset or automatic on basic walkie-talkie type radios. Perhaps the squelch requires adjustment or perhaps the circuit has stopped working.
The radio still works (somewhat) as it can receive/transmit but the quality is quite diminished from the other radio. I'm still trying to clean it as it has gotten better and will leave an update if I've fixed it.
While you have the thing apart I suggest you examine as many soldered joints as you can through a powerful magnifier and resolder any that appear dull and badly made. The soldering iron must necessarily be quite small and properly grounded.
I found the problem which was there was a lot of corrosion around the area where the speaker was and I did fix that with some more isopropyl alcohol but my new problem with that is that I accidentally detached a cable soldered to the battery compartment and I do not own a soldering iron.
:(
Either find a friend with suitable tools and expertise or invest a little cash in the tools for the job so you have them for next time - a good soldering iron can be bought for very little money, the solder, unfortunately costs more for a full reel but it is possible to buy smaller quantities...
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SOURCE: Monitor will not power up
Hi tafkab, Sounds like it's probably the backlight inverter board. Try the test I have at the bottom to see. It's a very common problem. LCD's use four small Cold Compact Fluorescent bulbs to back light the display. (thats what gives the LCD it's brightness allowing you to see it) The inverter board runs these lights and when they go bad they will typically show symptoms like you have or the monitor power light comes on and you have either no display or a very dim display. If you ever have one that has no display but the power light is on you can check by shining a flashlight directly into the LCD from the front (right into the screen) if you can see an image then it's either the inverter board (most likely) or the CCFL bulbs have gone bad. The inverter board and CCFL's are replaceable. Good Luck, Dude
SOURCE: EX110 Keyboard: Some Keys don't work
GandalfUK,
What can be done depends greatly on WHAT was spilled on the keyboard, AND what your experience with electronics is.
All of the keys you indicated are on the same key row as each other. The way a keyboard works is that there is a grid pattern of electronics traces(lines) that run below the membrane (Rubber or plastic seal) just below the keys. The controller determines which key you push by checking for what column connects with what row.
Well since all of the keys you have indicated seem to be from the same row, I would say that something damaged the trace for that row.
Which leads me to believe that what he spilled was something acidic (Soda, orange juice etc..)
If you have experience with electronics you can remove the control board from its casing, be sure to remember where EVERYTHING came from (Draw yourself a diagram if you have to) then inspect the board for damage. You should be able to SEE the grid patter of contact pads. there are several rows, the one you want is 3rd from the bottom. If there is OBVIOUS damage your in business. clean it up and you can buy whats called a trace pen from an electronics specialty store. This is much like a ballpoint pen but instead of ink it has metal flakes suspendend in an electrically conductive epoxy. Draw in the gap in the trace with this pen and let cure usually 5 minutes but follow the curing time on the pen if different. then you can reassemble.
If you don't see any damage then you have to use a multimeter to narrow down the location. If you don't have a multimeter or the experience to track the trace to an open. Then it would likely be cheaper to just purchase a new keyboard. Not sure what they cost in the UK but their about $30 USD which if the exchange is what I remember is about 12 Pounds.
Hope this helps
Dave
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SOURCE: zanussi tc7103w tumble dryer not generating heat
There is a thermostat inside the drum if you open the door and feel up the front you will feel a disc with 2 screws holding it in remove the screws to expose the stat pull the stat out there will be 2 wires attatched to it. If you have a ohm meter check for continuity across the 2 conections or If you connect those 2 wires together and try the machine it should heat if so you will need to replace that stat. If still no heat i would suspect the heater to have failed
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