SOURCE: self clean light blinks when you turn oven on (oven does not work)
I had this same problem with mine (still posted under unsolved) This is the simpler model with the old turn style knob and the lever you slide over to lock the door for cleaning What I think (keep in mind I know little about ovens, more about cars) is that the switch that tells the oven the door is latched is staying engaged, and this is part of the lever mechanism. I cleaned and lubed this mechanism (obviously I would guess you want to use a food safe lubricant) and then moved the lever several times with the oven on so I could see if it turned on. After a few tries the cleaning light went off and the oven light came on. No, its not really a technical answer, all indications to me where that the problem was in the switch which is part of the latch mechanism. Good luck
SOURCE: Need to clean oven GE true temp self clean
the oven temp sensor is bad. replace temp sensor to solve problem
SOURCE: Oven wont turn on.
I tried several times to get my oven to work and nothing seemed to help. After downloading the manual from this site, my husband locked and unlocked the oven door several times very hard and it knocked something in place and now my oven works. I hope it works for you.
SOURCE: Self clean light blinks, oven does not work
You were right. The locking mechanism switch somehow became jammed and the oven thought the door was locked, even though I could open the door. I didn't know if I was supposed to take the top off and moving the lever back and forth did not help. Finally I turned the oven on and just kind of jiggled the latch in the unlocked position. I kind of moved it back and forth furiously and the cleaning light stopped blinking and the oven light came on. I'm glad it is working now, but I will be manually cleaning my oven from now on! Thanks for your help.
SOURCE: broiler quit
Have you checked the broil element resistance? Unplug the range and remove the back cover. Remove the wires from the broiler element and place a meter across the element posts. See if the element reads close to a short (It should read very low resistance if good). If the element reads infinite (open), you will have to replace the broil element. If the readings are normal, you may have a bad Electronic Range Control (ERC) board. The board controls the bake and broil features of the oven through two separate circuits. Usually a relay on the board goes bad. Since the ERC is considered "non-serviceable", replacement components can be hard to find. For this reason, the entire assembly is usually replaced. The ERC runs around $100 for your range, while the broil element can run anywhere from $35 to $60. Now...as far as your self-cleaning function is concerned - most electric ranges use BOTH elements to super heat the oven cavity to about 700 - 800 degrees F. With one of the elements not working, there's a good possibility the self-cleaning function will not work either Double check the items I mentioned and let me know if this helps you.
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