Question about Maytag Washing Machines

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Maytag Bravo XL Washer - UL Code and Water Leak. Initially, I noticed water in the front of the washer after a load. Now the I get a UL code and the cycle won't complete.

Machine Details: Maytag BravoXL- Power Wash System, Model MVWb9950YG1 Repairs Tried: 1 Tightening the unit underneath 2 Adjusting the feet to make sure level

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  • Maytag Master
  • 10,402 Answers

Possible drain pump hose or pump leaking or if ok possible drum seals bad

Posted on Oct 10, 2019

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya

6ya staff

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE:

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Bob Gemmell

Bobby G

  • 212 Answers

SOURCE: Miele washing machine model W713 front load - issues

If it is leaking from the waste pump area it may be blocked by a small piece of clothing like a sock or something similar! This will also cause it to take too long to complete a cycle. Remove the rubber hose onto the waste pump and check inside the hose and the pump, make sure the pump spins freely and that nothing is stuck in the hose pipes leading to the pump

Posted on Sep 13, 2007

jsrock516

Jeff Rockwell

  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite Washer Problem

This is a common symptom of a defective lid switch. If you try opening and closing the lid and do not hear a distinctive "clicking" sound, your lid switch may need to be replaced. Some lid switches are located on the right-hand side of the lid opening with a small slot. It is activated by a plastic piece called a “lid strike” on the lid itself. Make sure the lid strike is not broken off. This will keep the switch from not working. On some model washers the lid switch is located on the left-hand side, in the rear, mounted under the casing near the lid hinge. It is activated by a rod on the lid hinge. Sometimes the rod can be adjusted if it is not making good contact with the switch. In either case, if the switch is not activated, it will allow the washer to fill and maybe agitate, but will not start the rinse or drain cycles. If you diagnose it and wish to attempt the repair yourself, the switch costs about $35 and is fairly simple to replace if you follow the steps below:

First of all, unplug your washer. You will need to remove the console in order to get to the lid switch. I believe your washer has release tabs under the console at each front corner. Simply slide a putty knife straight in from the front at each corner and push in while lifting up. You should feel the release tabs push in and the console will pop up. Or, you may have a console that has removable end caps. They can be removed by gently prying up on the top of them from the rear on each side. You may have to use a small screwdriver for this. The caps should pop right off. Once removed, you will need to loosen a screw under each cap. Once you have the console loosened, carefully lift it up and lay it back over the rear panel of the washer in its resting position. Be careful not to damage the small plastic hinges that hold it in place.


Now you will need to perform the following steps:

1. Under the console you will find the lid switch connector. Unplug the switch from the connector.

2. There will be two brass colored clips. You will need to remove these to remove the machine casing. Place a flat blade screwdriver straight down into the opening on top of the washer and into the groove of the clip. Push the screwdriver away from you while holding into the groove and the clip will release.

3. Open the lid of the washer and place your hand under the front rim of the opening (DO NOT grab the wash tub). Now pull the case from the frame by lifting from the back first.

You do not have to remove it all the way from the frame. Just enough to gain access to the switch. All there is to the switch is a couple of screws holding it in and a ground wire. It's a pretty easy repair job. NOTE: You DO NOT have to drain the tub to repair the lid switch.

Once you've completed your switch installation, make sure you get the case back on the frame correctly by following these steps:

1. While looking down through the lid opening, place the front lip of the machine case UNDER the washer frame and start leaning it back onto the frame. There are four small cleats that must fit into four slots on the case or the washer will vibrate. Make sure the frame is seated properly, lean forward from the front of the washer, grasp both sides of the rear panel and pull towards the case. The rear panel should be seated and flush with the casing before inserting the retaining clips.

2. Insert the brass-colored clips into the slot on the washer rear panel first, then push straight down into the opening on the top of the washer with some force. If you have the case seated correctly, the clips will snap back in.

3. Make sure you plug the connector from the console back into the lid switch receptacle and close the console.

I hope you find this helpful. If you have any questions or need help locating the correct part, please let me know by posting comments.

Posted on Apr 08, 2008

Anonymous

  • 6 Answers

SOURCE: Water level issues on the Whirlpool washer.

It's overfilling If your washer is overfilling, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Water-level switch
Water-inlet valve A defect in the water-inlet valve may mean that it's no longer able to shut off completely when the electricity has been turned off to it. If this occurs, the valve may leak and drip water into the clothes tub. In time, the water may accumulate substantially. If this happens, you need to replace the valve.

Water-level switch A defect--or an obstruction--in the water-level switch may mean that it can't tell the water to shut off. So the machine overflows. This switch senses the water level in the clothes tub. It's usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. You can either clear any obstruction in the tube or replace the water-level switch.

It's underfilling The water-level switch regulates your washer's fill volume. This switch is usually a diaphragm device with a small, clear tube attached between the switch and the bottom of the washer's outer tub. As the water level in the tub increases, the pressure on the air in the tube increases. When the pressure reaches a certain level, it activates the switch, shuts off the water, and signals the timer to begin the agitate cycle. If the switch is defective, it may prematurely signal the water to shut off. If so, you probably need to replace the water-level switch.

The water temperature is incorrect The temperature of the incoming water determines the temperature of the water in your washer. You get either hot, cold, or a mix of the hot and cold water that's currently available to the machine. So if the cold water that enters the machine is very cold--or if the hot water entering the machine is very hot--the warm water is affected. 

If you live in a Northern climate, unless you adjust the hot and cold water taps that supply water to your washer, the warm water supplied to your washer is usually hotter during the summer months and colder during the winter months.

Posted on May 08, 2009

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Maytag Neptune Error COde "nd"

This is now the 3rd time this has happened. The 1st 2 times it cost me ~$100 to have a technician come in and fix.

This time, I did it easily. For my Maytag Neptune washer, I removed the back panel (2 screws). On the bottom tray is the water discharge pump. On the output side of the pump there is a small cavity under the rubber flapper where a nickle fits perfectly. I removed the nickle, reattached the output drain line. started it up ...

and viola! the problem solved.

Posted on Jun 28, 2009

TomZS

  • 220 Answers

SOURCE: Maytag Bravo Washer flashes F50 code

Most likely a bad machine control,can also possibly be a motor per whirlpool but I have never had to change a motor,changed a lot of machine controls. 

Posted on Sep 01, 2009

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Why does it vibrate excessively, even empty?


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Oct 20, 2014 | Maytag Washing Machines

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Try adjusting the feet or shimming the unit from underneath or try loosening the three screws on the hinges it may be able to be slid back or forward to adjust the door. Hope this helps.

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Loud noise from tub when on fast spin aquarius wma48 1400 spin


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Overloaded Machine

Putting too many items in your washing machine at one time or washing larger items, such as a quilt, can cause your washing machine to occasionally make excessive noise. Laundry can get trapped around the agitator and will hamper its movement, causing it to work harder to spin. Stop the wash cycle and remove the excess laundry on top. Take big, bulky items to a laundromat or drycleaners to wash in an industrial machine equipped to handle such items. A washing machine is more effective at cleaning laundry when water and suds can surround the clothes and penetrate fabrics.
Defective Balancing System

GE washing machines have a balancing system that includes counterweights, springs and pistons that help to evenly distribute weight inside the wash tub. If any of the system's components break, it can interfere with the drum's rotation. Rather than spin evenly in the machine, the drum might be imbalanced up or down and produce a knocking sound. The noise might become louder and more persistent each time you do a wash load until you replace the faulty component.
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Place your washing machine on a flat surface, preferably a concrete slab. If the floor underneath the washing machine is sloped, even the slightest bit, it can cause the machine to vibrate when it spins and agitates. Place both hands on either side of the washing machine and try to move it. If the machine moves, then adjust its feet at each of the bottom four corners of the machine by tightening or loosening the bolts with a wrench until the machine is level on all four sides.

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1 Answer

We got a figidaire washer for a gift (the front loader model). We are having issues with the balancing of the washer... we know the feet turn on the bottom but after adjusting them it still was out of...


hello on some machines there are load senors. you already may have done this get spirit level set the feet of the washer again. also with power off check inside the machine make sure the 2 large bricks are not loose the 1 at the bottom is usually bolted on the 1 at the top is attach by 2 large springs hope it helps

regards
shaun

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I have a very old Maytag - Model LA608. It has developed a habit of shaking around very violently. I have balanced out the feet so that it sits stable on the floor. I have also tried to balance out the...


Your drum is going unbalanced with the load.


Either you do have an unbalanced load but more likely is that the dampers on the underside of the drum have failed. (they are like shock absorbers)


There normally are 2 dampers attached to the drum and the frame.


They are accessed by tipping the machine onto its side.


However the machine is heavy and make sure you disconnect power and water if you want to investigate.


Cost of new dampers are around 50 each.


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Check your manual, I know that do stands for door open, how old is your machine?

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