A locknetics 9000 series electric strike on my home security system. When I apply the 12vdc to it the motor spins continuously and the latch is still open it never is in the locked position

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Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

No agitation or spin? try these:

Motor Coupling If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor coupling might have failed. The motor coupling connects the motor to the washer transmission. It is designed to fail if the washer is overloaded in order to protect both the motor and
Drive Belt If the washer won't spin or agitate, check the drive belt. If the belt is broken or if it isn't tight on the pulleys the washer won't spin or agitate properly.

Drive Motor If the washer won't spin or agitate the drive motor might be defective. This is not common. Check all of the other related parts to this symptom before replacing the motor. If the motor is visibly burned out or physically damaged, replace it.

Stator Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the stator assembly might be burned out. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed.

Transmission or clutch assembly not engaging due to going out or slipping.


Door or Lid Latch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the lid switch assembly might be defective. This is a very common problem. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any electrical switches with an Ohm meter for continuity. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Door Lock Motor and Switch Assembly If the washer won't spin or agitate the door lock assembly should be checked. The door lock can fail either mechanically or electrically. Test any switches on the door lock with an Ohm meter. The switches should have continuity according to their design.

Motor Control Board If the washer won't spin or agitate the motor control board might be defective. The motor control board provides power to the motor as well as direction and force. If the motor control board is defective the washer may not work at all or function properly.

need an NO relay

On this double oven, each door has it's own latch mechanism that consists of a motor, a position switch, and the door switch used to activate the cavity lights. Because the error indicated a latch failure (and the bottom door was locked), Start by cycling the power to the unit. Each time the power is removed and then applied to these ovens, both latches will lock then unlock the doors to ensure they are in the home open position. By doing so, you might be able to get the bottom oven door opened allowing me access to the latch assembly. With the latch removed, I try to begin a clean cycle so you could watch the motor operate and you will probably find that it will start to turn, but never would rotate enough to lock the door. Since the position switch was not actuated at the end of the motor operation, the F5 E1 error was again displayed. Replace the motor assembly
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Hello

You will need to adjust the dishwasher door latch to fix the door if it will not close. The door latch can come out of alignment from use. Adjusting the latch assembly is a straight forward process on most models of dishwashers. First, remove the securing fasteners for the inner door panel. It is a good idea not to remove the inner door panel completely, just enough that you can access the door latch assembly.

Turn the dishwasher circuit breaker off inside your home electrical panel. Open and close the door and watch where the strike plate makes contact with the door. The strike plate is usually on the front top center of the dishwasher. If the strike plate is out of alignment, it will hit the inside of the door.

Pull the dishwasher out of the counter enough that you can access the strike plate securing Torx screw. You may need to open your dishwasher door and remove the two screws that secure the dishwasher mounting bracket to the bottom of the counter with a Phillips-head screwdriver to pull the dishwasher away from the counter.

Loosen the Torx screw that secures the strike plate to the washer tub with a Torx driver. Adjust the strike plate so the plate will engage the door latch. Retighten the Torx screw and push the dishwasher back under the counter. Secure the brackets to the counter if your dishwasher uses retaining brackets.

Adjust Door Latch

Open the dishwasher door and remove the Torx screws securing the inner door panel to the outer door panel with a Torx driver. The retaining screws are usually around the side edge and top edge of the dishwasher door.

Lift the inner door panel enough that you can loosen the two securing bolts on the door latch with a wrench. You only need to loosen the bolts, not remove them.

Carefully raise the dishwasher door to align the door latch with the strike plate. Hold the door latch with your finger tips when you align the latch. Lower the door and tighten the door latch securing bolts.

Install the inner door panel retaining screws and tighten all screws with the Torx driver. Close the dishwasher door and turn on the circuit breaker.

Hello

Open the dishwasher door and inspect the latch mechanism for obstructions or immovability.

Clean out the door latch with a stiff bristled brush, and apply lubricant. Open and close the door to see if it now latches shut.

Check the door latch and strike plate alignment. Close the dishwasher door slowly and observe the door latch meeting the strike plate. Determine whether the latch is striking the plate correctly. If not, use pliers to gently bend the latch to meet the strike plate.

Gently hammer the latch to better align with the strike plate. Hammer carefully so as not to break the latch or dislodge it from its attached point. Open and close the door to see if it now latches.

Realign the strike plate. Loosen the strike plate with a screwdriver and slightly move its positioning to better align with the door latch. Tighten the strike plate and open and close the door to see the results.

It sounds like you may have one or more problems. One of which could be your door lock switch, quite often this part will simply fail over time. If it is faulty it will not lock the door, and for safety reasons will not go into a spin cycle. door switch assembly part number is 131763245. Also the door strike located on the doors edge will sometime break or chip in side the latch and you will have replace both. part number for the strike is 134456600. the other possible problem could be that your motor control board or speed board is faulty and is not sending the proper amperage to your motor telling it to spin. motor control board part number is 134591200. the strike is easy to replace but the others may require a technician.hope this helps

Thanks

sounds like the door is losing contact with the door switch, first thing i would check is the door strike.Metal strike plate located on the tub itself that the door latch catches as it closes. its a spring metal striker, i would try bending it down a little bit to ensure better contact with the switches inside the door itself . next id open the control panel and check to make sure your door switches are secured well, wires are tight.