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Steve Oakes Posted on May 10, 2019
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Fridge GE GSS20IEPDCC wall between the freezer and fresh food side getting very warm. Runs all the time.

Compressor and fans run all time. The wall separating the two half's is very warm. It is cooling and making ice. But will not stop running. I suspect a problem with the defrost circuit.

1 Answer

geob91

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  • Expert 128 Answers
  • Posted on May 12, 2019
geob91
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The wall separating the fridge and freezer section has tubing off the compressor called a mullion heater/ discharge tube heater. It is there to keep that strip slightly warm and prevent sweating during humid times. If it gets overly warm/hot to the touch then either it is due for a cleaning or the condenser fan has stopped. The defrost circuit is not the problem! After pulling the fridge out, remove the back panel and you will see a round condenser on the right hand side. The fan motor is mounted on the side of it. Clean as necessary and make sure the fan is running. Unplug during cleaning and protect your floor before pulling it out
Fridge GE GSS20IEPDCC wall between the freezer and - g0310045-00008-43cnu3fiz4liqhfxokiai0k4-3-0.png

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 114 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 28, 2007

SOURCE: Fresh Food & Freezer Warm

CHECK AND MAKE SURE YOU CAN HEAR YOUR EVAPORATOR FAN RUNNING (INSIDE MOTOR). IF IT IS NOT RUNNING ... AND YOUR COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING. THE MOTOR OR DEFROST TEMENATION SWICTH COULD BE DEFECTIVE. IF NOTHING IS RUNNING ... TRY TO LOCATE THE DEFROST TIMER(USUALLY LOCATED WHERE YOUR COLD CONTROLS ARE) YOU SHOULD SEE A SMALL HOLE WHERE YOU CAN MANUALLY TURN THE TIMER WITH A SCREW DRIVER.IT CAN ONLY TURN IN ONE DIRECTION. IF THE MOTOR IS RUNNING. CHECK TO SEE IF COMPRESSOR IN THE BACK IS RUNNING ... IF IT ISNT AND IS "HOT" (BE CAREFULL) SEE IF THE CONDENSER MOTOR NEAR THE COMPRESSOR IS RUNNING ... IF NOT ... THE COND. MOTOR IS BAD ... THAT MOTOR RUNS IF POWER IS GOING TO THE COMPRESSOR ALWAYS. IF COMPRESSOR IS HOT AND NOT RUNNING AND COND. FAN IS RUNNING .... UN PLUG FRIG AND WAIT TILL COMPRESSOR IS COOL TO THE TOUCH. THESE COMPRESSORS HAVE AN INTERNAL T-STAT THAT PROTECTS THE COMPRESSOR IF IT SHORT CYCLES.IT SOMETIMES GETS SO HOT IT DOES TAKE HOURS TO COOL OFF. THERE IS ALSO A DEFROST-TERMINATION SWITCH THAT CAN GO BAD. CONSULT A LICSESED FACTORY CERTIFIED COMPANY TO GIVE YOU A FIXED-PRICE DIAGNOSTIC TEST.

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Anonymous

  • 709 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 25, 2007

SOURCE: Freezer and Fridge side not cooling

Sounds like your Defrost heater is burned up. It is located in the back of the freezer compartment behind the lower cover. Look at the base of the condensor. Two screws hold the heater and two wire connectors. The heater is in a glass tube. Measure continuity from one end to the other, you should see a few ohms. if it is open, your heater is definitely burned. I got a good deal on a replacement heater on Ebay. I think it was $17 including shipping. The heater being bad will cause major frost buildup in the back of the freezer and stop the Ice maker from working and damage food. Be sure to thorougly dry the freezer compartment prior to putting it back in operation. If too much moisture is present, the new heater will evaporate the moisture into the Ice dispensoer motor and solenoid that swtiches from crushed to solid ice. Hope this helps. it has nothing to do with your problem, but please Check out my website www.playstationclinic.com

Anonymous

  • 447 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 10, 2008

SOURCE: Fridge not cooling compressor works intermitently

Is the brand name of the compressor Tecumseh?? How old is this fridge??

Anonymous

  • 1 Answer
  • Posted on Aug 16, 2008

SOURCE: Refrigerator warm, freezer too cold

I had this same problem. You need to totally empty the fridge and freezer and allow it to defrost for 24 hours. Then put it back on and it will work. This happens if someone leaves the freezer door open and then it gets closed. The defrosted water freezes in the pipes and doesn't allow the cold air to move up into the fridge so the freezer gets even colder. This has happened to me twice!

Anonymous

  • 1314 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 11, 2008

SOURCE: My freezer's defrost systems runs constantly

i dont think so i would look at the compressor kicking out on thermal overload or a faulty thermostat thermostats have two settings cut in cut out your cut in could be bad and not turning the compressor on till the temp reaches melting temps now if your hearing a click buzz then you need to look at the compressor and make sure the compressor fan is running but its not a defrost promblem

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What else can I check - my fresh food side of fridge is still too warm, freezer fine.

GE refrigerators use a board to control cooling and defrost functions. The fresh food compartment also utilizes a motorized damper, and some models even have a fresh food fan. Air enters the fresh food compartment at the top left corner, and the return air is also in the left wall down near the crispers. Both paths must be clear.
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How to check stuff>
http://www.acmehowto.com/howto/appliance/refrigerator/refrigerator.php


Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

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Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side got warmer as well.

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This has happened in my GE side-by-side (model GSS20IEMDWW). For me, the problem was caused by a faulty temp sensor in the fresh food side. That sensor never signalled the computer that the temp in the fresh food side was cool enough, so the compressor ran constantly.

Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".

This site has schematics of various appliances, including the model number you provided...
http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedModelSearch.aspx?ModelNum=GSS22WGPDBB&mfgModelNum=&fkMfgID=2

Your model appears very similar to mine - in the "Fresh Food Shelves" section of the above site, the sensor is diagram number 242. In the "Freezer Section", the sensors are diagram number 241 and 243.
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Since the compressor was running constantly, the evaporator coils (back wall of the freezer compartment) eventually iced over (took about a week). Since the fan that draws air over the evaporator coils could no longer move any air (due to the icing), the temperature in the fresh food side continued to climb. (The fresh food side is chilled through a hole with a motorized door at the top of the dividing wall, so if no air is moving in the freezer compartment, temps in the fresh food compartment climb.)

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I replaced the temp sensor in the fresh food side and solved the problem for a while. About six months later I had the same problem again, so I replaced both temp sensors in the freezer compartment - which solved the problem again. (My fridge is about seven years old.)

If you are going to replace any of the temp sensors, replace them all under the principle of "if one failed, the rest will soon fail too".
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