Depending on which controls you have, the temps should be 0'f for the freezer and 36'f-40'f for the fridge. If you have digital controls then set them to 0'f for the freezer and 37 or 38'f for the fridge to start and make adjustments after 24 hours if needed. If you have knobs, then try the middle settings. Keep in mind that digital controls are not always correct in what they read so your settings may be different! 10% variance is common so if a digital control reads 40, it could actually be 36-44'f. This is very normal. Post a model# if you need more assistance so we can know what you actually have!
SOURCE: I have a Hoover fridge
IF THE FREEZER IS FREEZING O. K., THEN THERE IS A RESTRICTION IN THE AIR FLOW. MOST ALL FRESH FOOD COMPARTMENTS GET THEIR COLD FROM THE FREEZER BY A FAN MOTOR IN THE FREEZER. MAKE SURE THE FAN IS RUINNING. IF THERE IS A DAMPER IN THE AIR DUCT FROM THE FREEZER TO THE FRESH FOOD, MAKE SURE THE DAMPER IS OPENED.
SOURCE: kg34na90gb fridge freezer - fridge
turn the freezer up to highest setting and set the refrigerator control to about half way. this will block some of the airflow into the refrigerator.
Here's what I did, I defrosted! I found out that the fridge temp is monitored and maintained by the freezer. Because we had a power outage one night, my freezer thawed while we all slept and then when power came back on, freezer re-froze but this cause an ice build up on the vent on the back wall of the freezer. Well, ice must have been in one (or more) vents, causing blocked air flow in my top half of the refrigerator. I turned the dial in the freezer to "off" which also shuts down power to the fridge half. I then unplugged the refrigerator, hauled all my food items into coolers, opened the freezer door and refrigerator doors and left them open for a little over six hours. I took advantage of this empty fridge and freezer and wiped everything down. After this time frame passed, I plugged the fridge back in, turned the freezer dial to my preferred freezer temp, and wah-lah! Within two hours I had a cold fridge and solid ice cubes in the freezer. I then put all my food items back into their appropriate compartments, and went to work. Bear in mind, a total 24-hour period is needed for the fridge to re-set itself, but still, after two hours the fridge was noticeably cold. Who knew, besides our parents' generation: DEFROST!
SOURCE: Temperature setting
The fridge should be just above freezing, maybe 2 or 3 degrees celsius. The freezer should be around -15 degrees celsius. The outside temp doesn't matter as far as the settings go.
SOURCE: fridge broken, freezer is temp. that fridge should
Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . ( If you notice your compressor is not running before unplugguing the blue plug , then jump wire1 to wire3 to see if the compressor runs . If so , then the main control board is bad . Plug the refrig back in to see if compressor starts with the jumper wire in place , ) . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .
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