I don't seem to have any RO waste water flowing. ... ever .... what is the deal ?

You CAN just bypass the filtration system, BUT, you're going to have mineral deposits buildup in various locations over time. If that's not a problem for you, then TAKE OFF OSMOSIS SYSTEM, and just extend the hose that goes into the filtration system---- to the hose that exits the system, connect the two, and that's it, all set. Make sure all your hose connections are secure, so you don't get leaks, or flood your floor. You could put in an activated charcoal sytem, which will take out chlorine, other chemical contaminants and give much more water per minute than a RO system, if that's your reason for wanting to remove it. You could easily use your existing RO unit, merely remove the RO membrane filter, and bypass it, and that would use all the other filters it has, without slowing the water flow excessively. Also, it will, NOT take out any minerals, or heavy metals or viruses, like the RO membrane will do, but the water flavor is more how most people like.

Take the filter to the hardware store and get the necessary fittings (and maybe a short piece of tubing) to connect the in and out lines without the filter. Perhaps easier deal is a new filter which should NEVER become clogged on RO water.

IF THE RO OR ANY T33 FILTER HAS BEEN INSTALLED HORIZONTALLY, TRY TO INSTALL IT VERTICALLY WHERE THE OUTPUT IS ON TOP. GOD BLESS.

It is quite common to loose air pressure in the RO over time. At times the tank will be full of water but will not have enough air pressure to push water out. Take the tank of drain as much water as possible, for 3 gallon tank bring pressure in tank to 7psi, for 10 gallon tank pressure should be 10psi.
RJ

The reverse osmosis faucet you have incorporates an AIR GAP to prevent cross contamination to the RO system. The waste water first goes up the to RO faucet AIR GAP and then goes to drain. The "gurgling noise" is the waste water going to drain. Some of these are much noisier than others.
RJ

A reverse osmosis system drinking water system will waste a certain amount of water for every gallon it produces.
1. The higher the TDS (total dissolved solids) the higher the ratio of waste water to product water.
IE: An RO on TDS of 1000ppm may require 7 or more gallons of water to waste to 1 gallon of product water. TDS of 100ppm will have about 3 gallons of waste to each gallon produced.
2. It also depends on the Membrane capacity. Membranes for residential RO systems come sized from 7-75 gallons per day. If you are a heavy water user and have a low producing membrane the RO may not shut off until it gets to rest at night and fill the tank.
3. There can also be a problem with the automatic shutoff on the RO. When the tank fills up and the pressure equalizes across the system the ASO (which is just a simple diaphram system) shuts the water off to the system.
4. If there is not enough pressure in the RO tank the tank may fill up but there may not be enough back pressure to shut the ASO off. So the waste and product water go down the drain and it runs constantly.
RJ

There may be several causes for this. Here is a list of things to look for.
1. If an activated carbon filter was installed many times carbon fines will plug up the head of the RO housing. Pull the filters out and flush the whole assembly with NO filters in it.
2. The capillary tube (which puts back pressure on the membrane to create water) may be worn out and all the water will run to the drain. Replace capillary tube
3. The automatic shutoff may not be opening to allow for water flow.
4. Shut the water off at RO tank and take the line off from RO filters to see if any water is flowing from housings.
5. The RO tank may also need air. If the air charge is low in tank (7 psi for 3 gal tank) no water can be forced from the tank.
6. If the RO is fed by a piercing valve make sure their is water coming from it.
7. Depending on what type of RO it is their may be a flow restrictor in head of membrane housing that can get plugged also.
I hope these tips may help you,
RJ

Disconnect the water pressure tank making sure the end the line hooks up to is open. The tank should be relatively light, and if you shake it you should not hear any water. If you hear water in it, or it feels heavy, that means the bladder inside the tank has failed. Replace the tank with a new one, and set the pressure on the bicycle type valve at 8 PSI before you connect the tank up to the water line.

No on the air bleed out, probably so on the water line reversed suspicion

is there an internal float that is stuck allowing overflow?