I have a Toro Lawnmaster 53603 controller. The on-off button no longer works on the manual valve. I used to be able to choose the area and the time on the manual valve. Now it won't turn on.

To select your master valve option ON, 1. Set the dial to Zone Run Time. 2. Press the Next button until Master is displayed (after the last valve). 3. Press the + button to turn the master valve ON. 4. Press the – button to turn the master valve OFF. Selecting Program Start Times This sets the time of the day you wish to water.

This is a nice resource that should do the trick. https://icontent.toro.com/smartmanuals/ToroLawnmaster53603/Manual.htm

Best,

Joe

To re-sync your Honeywell 8220 transmitter to the valve: Turn the Local/Remote switch on your valve to Local. Then switch it back to Remote. Within 10 seconds of switching it to Remote, you need to press the Flame button on your transmitter. This will re-sync your transmitter to the receiver in the valve. Replacement transmitters and valves are no longer available for this system, they were discontinued by Honeywell and they are completely out of stock. Monessen Hearth Systems (now owns Majestic, Vermont, etc) has a retrofit kit with a new valve, pilot assy, and remote for these old RF units. (expensive, but cheaper than a new fireplace). FYI, aftermarket remotes are NOT compatible with this Honeywell system.

There is no magic cure for plastic, battery-operated, digital, water timers that are exposed to weather.
Try spraying WD40 on the button.
Turn timer upside down and spray WD40 again so debris can work it's way out of timer button.
Keep a cover over timer, do not expose to direct hot sun, and do not expose to freezing water or inner plastic valves will break.
Buy another timer.

Copy following link for Gardena manuals:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-program-Gardena-C1060.html
Copy following link for various other water timers, Toro, Orbit, Melnor, Raindrip etc in no particular order.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Woods-timers-and-manuals.html#sprinkler

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

There are two Toro timer manuals posted:
Copy following links, for ez word search for each manual:
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Toro-53794_UserGuide.pdf
http://waterheatertimer.org/Toro-53794_UserGuide.pdf
http://www.toro.com/en-us/homeowner/do-it-yourself-irrigation/timers/Pages/default.aspx

The timer can be reset to factory defaults by 'clearing program memory' following steps in manual.
Warranty period is 1 year protection against defects in workmanship, which is standard for timers from Woods to Intermatic to GE etc.

If the display is not working, and zone does not show, then that implies internal defect, or lack of power. Resetting timer might repair problem.
The timer has electro-magnetic relays, and not an internal solenoid.
The timer turns ON or turns OFF electric power to the water valves.
Water valves have solenoids that open and close when power from timer arrives at each zone.
The solenoid can make the sound you describe, but the timer relays with make small click sound as the electromagnetic relay opens and closes.

In addition to resetting timer to factory defaults, and then reprogramming you might try changing wires to different terminals.

Also the timer works on 24Volt AC transformer that plugs into outlet. It is possible to get display errors on timers when voltage is incorrect, or outlet and transformer are not connected well. Test outlet with circuit analyzer. Change outlet because outdoor outlets get corroded. Clean blades on transformer plug.

Power surge and other events can damage timers. Nearby lightning strike. Power outage causes surge when power resumes.

There is 24-hour backup battery, but the battery does not appear to be replaceable type and instead is rechargeable or capacitor type backup. So the battery is probably not the problem

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

1. Make sure that there are no other valves on the piping. There may be a backflow preventer outside with valves on it that may have been closed.
2. Do you have a rain sensor? Has it rained in your area in the past two days?
3. Try to run different zones. I can't find the ECX controller so I can't help you.
If you have 7 zones, try running zone 6 or 7.

Gary

Sometimes on the Briggs and Kohler engines, the compression release fails to operate at the proper time or is malfunctioning. A remedy for this is to remove the valve cover(s) and adjust the OH valves per the manufacturers specifications. This enables much easier starting, produces less wear and tear on the starter and may allow your new battery to completely turn that engine over. Out of adjustment valves mimic a weak or failing battery quite well and the engine hangs up on the compression stroke because the compression release system is not working properly. Adjust those darn valves.

The timer SMART manuals that Toro has for the ECx models can be found here:

http://www.toro.com/home/customercare/interactivemanuals.html#6

If your manual is not on that page you will have to use the Toro "contact us" using this link:
https://homeownersolutions.toro.com/portal/server.pt/community/contact_us/223

Here are the 2 ECx manuals listed:

http://216.213.143.2/ProAuthor/ManProc.cfm?&sk=4253770A%2DE287%2D11DF%2D9262%2D00D0B789305D&&ProcID=8342&ManualID=222&ProductID=-1&Edit=No&Skill=1&Lang=-1

http://216.213.143.2/ProAuthor/ManProc.cfm?&sk=4253770C%2DE287%2D11DF%2D9262%2D00D0B789305D&&ProcID=8342&ManualID=256&ProductID=-1&Edit=No&Skill=1&Lang=-1

Thanks for choosing FixYa,

Kelly

I've had the same problem (I think) - the starter will not activate. First time, I found the fuse that's attached to the battery "tray" had corroded. For that I put a good coating of silicone dielectric grease on the fuse contacts and holder. This keeps moisture out. With that it was good for a few months. Now it's gone bad again. This time the fuse is good, but the battery is dead, and so dead that it won't recharge. Apparently the cause of the discharge was/is grass and moisture finding its' way into the battery area, and providing a conductive path between the battery terminals. I was recharging it regularly, following the owners manuals' instructions, so it's definitely not a negligence problem caused by me.
So, obviously what we have is a design flaw in the mower that allows grass clippings to get into the battery area. Time for a recall, but for a quick fix for your current pioblem, you might just find the fuse is corroded, and a replacement + non-conductive grease may be all you need to git'er going.