Propane gas, rp2100 355 btu's, new regulator, new valve. 12 inches static pressure at regulator and 11 inches under load. 11 inches static pressure at valve, 9inches under load. 0 inches static pressure at manifold, 4 inches under load.
Could be a low pressure sensor, but also look at suction leaks. If your pump is on and you have a leak on the suction side of the pump, it will play hell with your pressures. You'll see them dropping as you move through the pump because you'll be sucking air and your pump can start cativation.
Simply defined, cavitation is the formation of bubbles or cavities in liquid, developed in areas of relatively low pressure around an impeller. The imploding or collapsing of these bubbles trigger intense shockwaves inside the pump and can play hell on all your pressures
Testimonial: "Thank you for your suggestion. I found that the orifices on the burner were for natural gas and not propane. it appears that the part was incorrectly numbered. Once I corrected that the pressure was fine. thanks again."
Possibly the low pressure sensor itself???
SOURCE: Honeywell Gas Valve inoperative
Gas valve is probably dead. With the numbers directly off the valve, you may find a place to sell you one. Don't try and repair the valve. Will probably cost as much to by a new one.
Good Luck
SOURCE: Rheem Eco-180dvn. Error code 12 -- interrupted gas
you shouldn't have 7.1 psi at the unit, they are built for about a half pound at the unit, how far is the unit from the meter? the meter might be a bit under sized, if you have 180k at the tankless on btu's then you have atleast 110k at your furnace that right there puts you over what your meter can handle, you add a fireplace or a dryer or even a stove then your quite a bit over! you also want to check your vent length, make sure your counting the bends because depending on the bend it could take anywhere from 3-6 feet off the allowable vent length.
SOURCE: I HAVE A PENTAIR MASTERTEMP 400000 BTU NAT GAS
Generally speaking, too small a gas line will not inhibit the heater from lighting; it just won't burn efficiently and you will likely shorten overall heater life due to burner corrosion and soot buildup on the heat exchanger. Unless the total run of pipe to the heater is under 20' the pipe should have been 1-1/4" or larger, depending on what type of pipe was used.
That said, you should probably contact Pentair to arrange for a warranty service call to examine why the heater is not lighting. If the tech sites installation issues, be sure to get it in writing so you can go back to the plumbers for corrective action.
Contact Pentair. Select service providers and heaters and you should find someone local...
In case you do not have it, here is your owner's manual.
AO will apply to your blower, blower tubing, or blower vacuum switch. You need to check these items.
SOURCE: pool and spa heater will not turn on, low pressure on display
1) check the fuse on the transformer. You will get "low pressure" if the fuse is blown.
1a) remove front panel with flat head screw driver turning both big screws 1/4 turn clockwise
1b) look up under the 1 remaining front piece for 2 screws (one on each side). remove them and the 1 small panel slides down
1c) transform is directly in the center of this compartment
1d) red wire on transform has a black fuse case - twist open and check fuse (with an ohm meter it should read a dead short if it is working).
1e) if not working - replace with standard 250v 2a bus fuse.
2) it really is low pressure
2a) backwash pool or at least make sure pressure in filter take is not too high (high filter tank pressure == low water pressure in heater)
2b) if you have a bypass valve make sure it is not in bypass mode so most all pressure from the pump is going tothe heater
2c) right next to the transformer is the pressure switch. It has a small copper tube attached to the back and 2 wires in the front. Put an ohm meter across the two leads on this device. With the filter off it should be open, with the filter on it should be closed (short). If not either the copper tubing is clogged, the switch is faulty, or there is not enough water going through the heater. The amount of water that goes into the heater is adjustable and the water pressure switch is also adjustable. The owners manual explains how to adjust both but neither should need adjustment unless you have a special configuration (explained in the manual).
69 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×