I know how to line my lines up on the left but cannot get the spacing between the lines the same on my Janome200E

Hi you should be able to do this in the edit screen if you hoop size can fit both designs.

So many of the built in fonts and designs in these embroidery machines aren't easily manipulated. Computer digitizing software is what you want to use to get the spacing and layout correct.
Cheers,
Kelly
San Diego, CA
Embroidery Services

On the alphabet screen, there is a dash or line symbol that represents a space. You might consider having a " DIgitizer" digitize the poem for you. Then you can sew it as a single design vs the limited fonts and layout capabilities.

Cheers,
Kelly
San DIego, CA
Embroidery Services

You usually have problems with the upper knife, getting it right. The lower one is shown in your manual more than likely. You may have to take it in if you can't get to line up. Do you have any retired machinist or someone handy with gadgets in your neighborhood? But, you can try this, I just took out my Singer serger, and put 2 credit cards on top of one another and that is the spacing of the knives on mine. The lower knife is flush with the needle plate. I hope that is works because I don't know of a video for it. If you email me, I have a decent diagram of what it should look like, I can scan it for you, [email protected]

look 3 inch under left side of screen is a wheel to adjust the brightness

Here is the trick: If you look at your thread spools, left to right, thread machine beginning with thread from spool 3, then 4, then 1, then 2.

Thread 4 is tricky. You must line up the purple line on the big wheel on the right end in order to do this. Thread the machine according to the diagram on the inside, then, making sure you lined up the purple line, push the lever at the bottom of the machine (below threading guides) to the left while holding on to the thread end. This will push the thread up and along the horizontal arm you just threaded.

Go to the end of the alphabet and use the underscore.

This will leave a space and not actually stitch the underscore.

Normally the temperatures go from left to right with the low being on the far left. Example: Low, Medium, High.

Found this below that may help confirm timing? As for the zig zag one thought is to check for end play in the upper shaft. At the left hand end of the shaft (under the top cover) there is an white plastic "bushing" with one slotted screw - this can be adjusted to take up the slack. It is possible that this bushing is split by the screw which may make it come out of adjustment. Check the other collars on this shaft are tight (hex) - by the belt and near the drive gear. P.S. double check the zig-zag cam is in the correct position (set to straight sew - centre position to install the cam - check instructions).

Timing
Turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is in the lowest position and observe two lines on the needle bar at the place where it comes out of the machine. You have to see these lines. When you find those, you have to tilt the machine on its back and you will see that on the right hand side there is a belt coming down onto a gear like piece on the timing shaft. Move your eyes to the left and the next thing that you will see is a large round gear on the feed shaft. Now that we have determined the difference between the feed shaft and the timing shaft, follow the feed shaft to the left and there will be a small metal piece there with two metal screws on it. Next to that to the left is a stationary metal peice that has a bump on it. You must see these two things to adjust your machine.

Now, to determine if your machine is out of time, turn the handwheel towards you (always turn it towards you) until the needle is in the lowest postion again. Observe the two lines on the needle bar, turn the handwheel toward you until the bottom line goes in the exact place where the top line was. Now look at the needle and hook. The hook should be directly behind the needle. If it is not, we go back to the bottom of the machine on the gear like metal piece that the belt rides on and loosen the two screws that are in the piece. Now if you will remember, this is on the timing shaft. When these two screws are loose, the hook will become moveable. Place the tip of the hook directly behind the needle without moving the needle bar (remember that the needle bars bottom line was placed where the top line was). When you have accomplished this, tighten the screws on the belt gear.

Now you have to determine whether the feed is in time. Again, place the needle in the lowest postion, rise the low line to where the top line was, and see if the line on the feed shaft is directly next to the bump on the stationary metal piece. If not, without moving the handwheel at all (because it must stay in this position to time it), loosen the two screws on the feed shaft piece and align the two lines together. Then tighten the two screws, make a few rotations with the handwheel, and again, put the needle in its lowest position and rise the bottom line to where the top line was. Inspect the two lines on the feed shaft and the hook behind the needle.

If these did not stay in adjustment, re-do the entire process, but be more careful not to move the handwheel when making the tightening adjustment. If you re-do this and it still does not stay in adjustment, you need to replace your timing belt,

I do not have a buttonhole foot, but I can tell you how I do it with the zig zag foot on the Singer 132Q machine.

1. Mark the spacing and size for the buttonholes with chalk or marking paper. This consists of a straight line with a perpendicular line at the top and bottom that lets you know how big to make the hole. There is probably a pattern piece to let you know what the spacing should be, and you can get the size of the hole for the top and bottom line by laying the button you are going to use on top of the line you draw with the pattern.

2. Make sure the bobbin has plenty of thread.

3. Put the zig zag foot on the machine.

4. Set the stitch size to 1 or maybe a little less. You want a tight stitch to hold the hole together.

5. Start at the top of the buttonhole with the perpendicular line barely visible in the zig zag foot. Think of it as placing the "T" made by the mark in the "T" made by the opening in the zig zag foot.

6. Set the needle pattern to #1 of the buttonhole pattern (2nd from the top). Make sure it is toward the top of the number to insure you get a wide zig zag stitch. If you are getting a narrow stitch, you may have to fiddle with it, but it will work. Stitch 4-6 times making sure the stitch is wide, and end on the left side of the stitch.

7. Change the needle pattern to #2 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch down to the bottom mark. Do not pull the fabric or you will stretch the stitch. Make sure your last stitch is on the left hand side.

8. Change the needle pattern to #3 of the buttonhole pattern (same as #1), and zig zag stitch 4-6 times ending on the right side this time. Make sure the stitches are wide.

9. Change the needle pattern to #4 of the buttonhole pattern and straight stitch back to the top mark. Be prepared to hand roll the needle the last few stitches to make sure you do not pass the top stitches you have made.

10. Change the needle pattern to #5 of the buttonhole pattern and zig zag stitch back to the bottom mark. Hand roll the last few stitches and end on the left side.

11. Raise the foot and remove the fabric. You are now ready proceed to the next buttonhole or cut the buttonhole open with a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper. Make sure you do not cut any of your stitches.



Make sure you practice on some scrap fabric of the same thickness (2 layers of fabric plus pellon) to make sure you have the size right before you sew the buttonholes on the garment.

GOOD LUCK.