Return it for another on or call Hobart customer service. Number is listed in the instructions that came with unit. Page 7-7
https://www.tractorsupply.com/static/sites/TSC/downloads/ProdContentPDFs/1021027_Man1.pdf
SOURCE: Trying to weld with Hobart 125 EZ
If you are using flux wire and not shielding gas, your clamp should be positive and the wire should be negative. Heat is provided by the electrical arc that happens between the wire and the material. Your welder by itself does not pre heat the material and with 3/16 material you should not need to preheat anyway.
The electrical arc is kept consistent by adjusting the wire feed rate and the current applied. You will need to experiment with these settings to find what works best with your welder. For this welder and 3/16 material, I would suggest you start at the upper end of the current scale and about a third of the way up on wire speed. The welder might have a chart for these settings in the manual or inside cover.
If the wire feeds too fast, it will push the probe around and you will feel pressure as the wire feeds out. If the speed is too slow you will get large spatters and intermittent arcs. When properly adjusted the arc will sound even and consistent. The arc gap should always be about 1/8 of an inch.
To maintain enough heat for good penatration, do not move the probe too fast, work in a pattern and watch the weld pool (melted metal) and not the arc. Watching the weld pool will clue you in if you are moving too fast or too slow.
I hope this helps.
-Scott
SOURCE: hobart handler 140 will not feed wire
A schematic would certainly help, give Hobart a call and ask for a wiring diagram. or manual. Hobart are very helpful and may even give you guidance, you may have to pay the postage, they usually fax these documents so it will not cost you anything.
SOURCE: I have a hobart handler 120/90amp wire feed welder
I have welded countless hours with Linde & Lincoln & even a few Hobarts & the only time that I ever had the same problem was when the ground connection either to the object I was welding, or the welding cable ground wasn't good & clean & tight. Same on stick welders also. I did develop the habit of grinding not only where I was preparing to weld, but where I was placing my ground clamp & that always provided a better "frying bacon" sound as I went along the business of pushing a bead. In a welder, the only other thing than that is involved is the step-up transformer and your wire. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: New Hobart Handler 140, feeds wire properly, but
Check the two main diodes. These units have a light duty cycle. About 20% if I remember correctly. I have one that I was welding with for a considerable amount of time, and burned up the diodes. You can test them by disconnecting the wires (with unit disconnected) and use a ohm meter. You should get a reading in one direction, but not the other. If no reading, then the diode is blown. You can order new ones from your local welding shop. Also check all conections on the secondary for any signs of overheating and loose connections.
Testimonial: "I appreciate the quick response. I failed to mention that this was my first time using a mig welder. Pulling the trigger fixed the problem. Thanks"
SOURCE: Have a Hobart Beta-Mig 170 Wire will not feed
First make sure the nozzle tip is free of any debris and the wire will slide easily. Lift the case and go to the wire feed unit. Loosen the pressure nob then lift up to release the pressure wheel. Make sure the bottom wheel ( should have two grooves, one for .35 wire and the other for 025 wire.) Make sure the Wire Feed Tip is also free and it allows the wire to pass through. Pass the wire through the feeder across the drive wheel and into the hose. Allow the pressure wheel to drop, then lift the pressure know to the upright position. Turn clockwise to put tension on the wheel. Make sure the gas is OFF, turn power on, depress trigger switch. This should allow the wheel to turn and feed the wire.
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