I have this unit, occasionally it has been just humming at the start of the heat cycle and the burner does not cone on.To fix it I shut the power off and restart it.

Sounds like your you may have a dirty pilot assembly if your unit is a direct spark system. Also check ground wires are secure.

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Good Afternoon Amanda,

I understand that your Frigidaire Affinity dryer, model# FAQE7001LW, is not heating as well as only running about 5-7 minutes of the cycle before shutting off. There are a couple things to check.

1)The gas supply valve is not open. Check to make sure that the gas valve is open.
2)The dryer does not have enough air supply to support the burner flame. Check with your local gas company to make sure that your dryer is installed correctly.
3)There is a possibility that your LP gas supply tank is empty or there has been a utility interruption of natural gas. Try refilling or replacing the tank.
If you are still having trouble with your dryer, I suggest giving it a hard reset, by either unplugging it or shutting the power off at your homes circuit breaker for 3-5 minutes. When power is restored, start any cycle. If you are still noticing that there is no heat and it stops 5-7 minutes into the cycle, I suggest contacting your local authorized technician. Hope this is helpful.

-Best Regards-
WP

It sounds like you may have a Whirlpool gas range. If so it is more that likely the burner assembly itself. The electrode attached to the burner gets to where it will light during the preheat but then once it starts to cycle the spark module tries three times to light the burner and then shuts down. the burner assembly comes as one unit with the electrode attached.

CHECK GROUND
OR ELECTRIC TIMING UNIT IS HEATING UP ITS IN A CONE SHAPED COVER WITH 2 RIVITS HOLDING COVER ON SOME TIMES ELECTRONIC IGNITION OVER HEATS AND MELTS GLUE HOLDING UNIT TOGHER WILL SHUT OF BIKE WHILE RIDING AND WHEN IT COOLS OFF BIKE STARTS FINE

Check out the flame sensor see if it is clean and check the connections .

see the following steps:
f the burner doesn't run, set the thermostat a few degrees higher than normal to see if it comes on. If it still doesn't come on, check switches, and breakers and fuses (see the Electrical Service Panel Fix-It Guide). If the unit has a reset button, press it. Also oil the motor at any oil ports (see below). If the unit doesn't want to start and run, first check the c to make sure that the ignition is getting power. If there is power, check the built-in safety controls (see below) that may turn the system off if they perceive problems.
If the burner cycles too often, replace the filter (see below). Also, oil and adjust the blower (see the Forced-Air Distribution Fix-It Guide).
If the burner runs but won't fire, make sure the oil valves are open and that there's oil in the tank. Check the tank level with a clean stick.
If the burner smokes or squeals, shut off the unit, let it cool, and fill the oil cups. Recheck them after the motor has run for an hour.
If the chimney smokes even after the flue has warmed up, the unit is wasting fuel; call for professional repair.
Safety Controls
Oil furnaces and other heat systems include safety devices that monitor operation and turn off the unit if something goes wrong. In some cases, the safety device can be the problem.
If you encounter an operating problem with an oil furnace, first reset the safety and try again.
If the burner kicks off again, shut off all power at the electrical service panel ; the burner motor and ignition may be protected by separate fuses or breakers.
If the sensor has a photocell, wipe it with a clean rag or tissue and see if the furnace starts.
If the safety is a stack switch mounted on the flue, remove the screw holding the unit to the stack, slide it out, and wipe off the sensor.
If the furnace won't start after three tries, seek professional assistance. Unburned oil can accumulate in the combustion chamber and "flash back."

the reason he told you not to cycle the power is because some where there is a flashing light that he can decode and tell him where to start looking for the problem. Call him next it happens and don't touch the power or the stat until he gets to see the unit.

Hello Friend, Your problem is very simple to fix. You're dryer needs a gas valve coil kit. To replace coils just remove front of dryer body and look below drum you will see the gas valve. The valve coils are located on top of valve (two little round black cylinders). It's simple, just remove the two screws from the little metal bracket that holds them down, unplug the wires from them and just lift them straight up off of the valve. Take notice that one has 3 wires and one has 2 wires. Just replace with new coils and plug wires back in and re-fasten metal bracket. Your dryer will run like new. Happy to help, Tim.

The heat is regulated with a Klixon mounted next to the blower housing near the vent pipe so it can judge the temperature of the air coming out of the drum.Right next to it is a melting type fuse. If the dryer runs and gets too hot the fuse will melt.But the dryer will still run. So if the fuse is good(continuity) and the dryer control(cycle) thermostat is also good then you should have power going to the gas valve assembly when the machine is running unless the timer is in the no heat or wrinkle free/cool down mode. When the gas valve assembly is energized the flame sensor mounted outside the burner chamber detects the heat from the ignitor. When the heat is very intense then the sensor shuts down the ignitor and that frees up the power so that the coils can be fully energised and open the gas gates. The gas comes out and hits the red hot ignitor and you have ignition. It stays on for maybe 2 or 3 minutes or until the control thermostat is satisfied and shuts down power to the gas valve assembly.
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