Question about GE GSS25SGPSS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Evaporator coil freezing, replaced main control

Refrigerator not cooling, cleaned condenser coil, 48 hour test ok 3 weeks later evaporator coil freezing,defrost heater and bi metal test ok, replaced main control board.after 3 weeks problem came back any advise evaporator coil completly iced over.

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  • baudi99 Aug 08, 2009

    Thank you so much for the advise, the defrost system heater, and bi metal is test ok, when it freezes the entire evaporator coil freezes from top to bottom could it be the temp control????

  • baudi99 Aug 09, 2009

    sorry, about the thumbs down I do not know how to use this service that well I thought the response was just for that step, your advise is very helpfull you are an expert. step by step. my rating to you will be 100% the drain is ok and in respect to the refrigerant being low according to the frost pattern on the evaporator is completely covered in ice from top to bottom low refrigerant in system will probably only freeze part of the coil right??? the manual will be extremely helpful two thumbs up.Thank you for your time.

  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

    location of defrost timer,defrost limit switch, evaporator coil, and evaporator fan.

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  • GE Master
  • 4,656 Answers

It is possible you have a defective fan motor in the condenser area or evaporator area. Sometimes when they become defective they will run for a while and just warm up and stop while the compressor continues to run. I learned that one on four costly returns to the home. The cost was to me not the customer. Thanks, Sea Breeze

Posted on Aug 05, 2009

  • 8 more comments 
  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 08, 2009

    I can be helpful if you would respond with something like I tried that or yes I need your help. I ask hundreds of people if the need my help and never get a response.Is there something missing in your post or do you want me to guess? Yes, your defrost heater may be defective. Click below

    WR51X10055 Defrost Heater it has a glass housing so once you defrost your freezer you will be able to see if its burned out. Your refrigerator has no defrost timer or defrost board its all done in the board you just replaced. I do suggest you change the defrost thermostat because when the freezer reaches 50 degree F the circuit is open. You can contact me by email or phone for free help. Email is appliancepartsse@yahoo.com

    phone is 864-812-1887 and my websites are listed below



    http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/



    http://appliancepartseast.blogspot.com/



    http://servicepartstec.blogspot.com/








    THANKS, SEA BREEZE



  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 08, 2009

    If you would like a free service manual let me know when I'm more helpful, Thanks, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 08, 2009

    Yes the temprrature control could be defective But not most likely. It will tell the mother board to cause the compressor to run continuous, lack of freon will also. Other symptoms of what is happening is a lack of freon/feon leak or the evaporator motor stopping while you don't know it. What I recommend is you find someone qualified to put a tap valve on the suction line side and read the suction pressure. This is something that I do not recommend someone that does not do these things. Signs of a freon leak are part of your evaporator coil will have Ice and the other part will have a cold sweat. Thanks for returning a reply. I never get a response fro Fixya when someone replies or give me arte. They did some changes to their server and the problems have not been fixed yet. Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 08, 2009

    You may want to check the electronic damper part number 879153

    If it is defective it will stop air from going to the fresh food compartment and causing the same symptoms.



    879153 Electrnic Damper & thermister

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 08, 2009

    Here is a photo of the thermostat temperature board encoder. Part number WR55X10095 This is your thermostat.

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 09, 2009

    Here is a link to your service repair manual. There are some test in the manual and I really believe you will need this. The manual is in PDF format. Sea Breeze

    http://appliancejunk.com/ge/refrigerator...

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 09, 2009

    One other thing I need to ask you is when you see the evaporator frozen is there ice blocking the defrost drain? And I want you to feel the air flow from the inside of the fresh food vent to see if there is a steady flow of air. Oh, the best way to check if refrigerator is defrosting is connecting the terminals on the board listed in the manual I sent. I will send more help topics as you need and my apologies for not knowing that you responded to me. Now I have to go through about 100 solutions and open each page to see if someone made a comments or gave me a rate. Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 09, 2009

    Has the information I have given you sill not been helpful?

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 09, 2009

    Your refrigerator is too complex for the do it yourself-er. I recommend you get someone that has been kind enough to tell you all the answers to the problems and have them come over and fix your refrigerator. The model you have is not one to guess and replace parts. Everything even the times the doors are opened daily are recorded in the memory board. If you need me again contact me. I have done all I can to help and advise you and this is what I get. Thanks, Sea Breeze

  • John Tripp
    John Tripp Aug 09, 2009

    To answer yes low on freon will show as a frew rows frozen and the other with cols swet. My thinking is there is no air flow over the coils or the defrost thermosta you sais you checked is defective. These are tricky parts to check. Most defrrost thermostats can not be checked above 50 degrees F. They must be checked while freezing or replaced. Or Check accordint to the service manual with the correct OHM meter.

    Thank You! All you need to do is put your cursor over the rate the you think I deserve. And click on it. Let me tell you why this bothers me so much. At one time we had a lot of people coming here to download illegal microsoft programs. When I told them I would not help them do something illegal they would lower my rank each time until I complained to Fixya and Microsoft. If it want change and it will not work then contact this link support@fixya.com. or just let it go. Just letting me know your real feelings are more important me. Thanks, Sea Breeze

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1 Answer

My GE side-by-side is not cooling.


The electronic control board is probably your culprit. These control boards control the compressor, fans and defrost. Look for any burned spots on the printed circuit bout it could be just bad.

May 11, 2014 | GE GSS25SGPSS Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

The fan is working. The fridge, freezer & coils are not iced up. There is good room for air circulation. I vacuumed most of the dust from the coils, etc. The compressor is just slightly warm to the...


Good day to you sir John,


A refrigerator or freezer that doesn't cool well enough may have a problem with its evaporator coils, condenser, or condenser fan motor. Frost build-up on evaporator coils, or condenser coils that are covered with dirt, dust, or lint can reduce how well a refrigerator can cool. If you notice ice getting thicker on the inside walls, inside bottom, or inside ceiling of the freezer, you have what is called a frost build-up. The problem is either with warm, moist air getting in through an old inefficient door gasket or the defrost system. Self-defrosting refrigerators have coils and a cooling fan that need to be cleaned regularly. If the coils get coated with any contaminants, they may not cool the refrigerator properly. The coils are usually thin and black and they go through fins that dissipate heat, just like a car's radiator. They are located behind the lower kick-panel or on the back of the refrigerator. To clean them, turn the power off and use this condenser coil cleaning brush, or this condenser coil cleaning brush, and your vacuum cleaner. Even if your coils are below the refrigerator, you won't be able to get to all the condenser coils from the front, so it's a good idea to pull the refrigerator out and clean the coils from the front and the rear of the refrigerator. Give the fan a dusting as well. Sometimes other things can be the reason behind poor cooling, like the condenser fan motor. Anytime the freezer fan is running, the condenser fan should also be running.
A frost build-up inside the refrigerator usually means that there is a problem in the self-defrost system. You may even have damaged door gaskets. When you open the refrigerator door, you also let in a blast of warm, often humid air. This moisture usually freezes onto the evaporator coils immediately. Self-defrost refrigerators are supposed to self-defrost between two and four times out of every 24 hour time-frame. They basically turn off for a few minutes several times a day. A defrost heater kicks on to melt any frost build-up on these coils, which allows the frost and ice to melt, then it drains off to the pan underneath most refrigerators. Unfortunately, when a defrost component fails, too much frost builds up on the evaporator coils. When this happens, the circulating fan can't draw air over these coils. With no air flow over the evaporator coils, the refrigerator compartment will lose its cool.
To determine if the self defrost system is faulty, it's best to remove all the food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn your thermostat to the Off setting, and just leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours, and let the refrigerator defrost. Keep an eye out for an overflow of water from the drip pan on the bottom of the refrigerator.
After everything has completely melted away, set the thermostat back to a regular setting. If your refrigerator starts operating properly, the symptoms lead to there being a problem with one of three other components in the self-defrosting system, the defrost heater, the defrost timer, or the defrost thermostat.
If, after testing these components, the refrigerator still doesn't get your foods cool, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level and you will need to contact a professional appliance repair person.

I hope this solution will be helpful...

Please don't forget to rate my answer if it is helpful to keep me going..

Thanks for using fixya...

Oct 23, 2011 | Frigidaire PLHT217TA Top Freezer...

1 Answer

Control lights ( temperature readings etc ) are consistently blinking on and off, accompanied with a beeping sound


Main control board is over
temperature. Look for blocked condenser air flow or inoperative condenser fan motor.
Refrigerator over 48°F or
freezer over 15°F for 3 hours.
Run diagnostics and test operation of all components.
Both thermistors failed.
Run diagnostics and test thermistors and thermistor leads.
No feedback from evaporator fan
motor. Run diagnostics and test fan motor and/or wiring. The manual is HERE



If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Jan 29, 2010 | KitchenAid KSSC48QMS Side by Side...

1 Answer

48" ge monogram refrigerator not staying cold


Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101

sfjfg

Aug 16, 2009 | GE Monogram ZISS480NRSS 48" Built-In...

1 Answer

The freezer is cold but inside refrigrator is not cool.


Hi...

In this problem you need to check this following:

  • Check the temperature settings
  • Assure that there is enough room for air flow in the refrigerator or freezer
  • Check for air flow restrictions in vents
  • Test the temperature control
  • Clean the condensor coils
  • Check the door seals
  • Test the door switch
  • Test defrost heater
  • Test defrost timer
  • Test evaporator fan
  • Check for a clogged drain tube
  • Check for refrigerant leak
If the refrigerator isn't cool, you need to answer some questions, then see if the compressor is running.

First, answer these questions:

  • Is the refrigerator completely dead? If so, see “It's stopped completely.”


  • Is the thermostat knob turned to the proper setting? If not, reset it.


Next, see if the compressor motor is running

The compressor is a football-sized case with no apparent moving parts. It's on the outside of the refrigerator at the back near the bottom. If it is humming or making a continuous noise and your refrigerator is still not cooling, there may be a more serious problem with one or more of several different components, we recommend contacting a qualified appliance repair technician for further help.

If the compressor is not running but you do have power to the refrigerator, there may be a problem with one or more of these:

  • The compressor


  • The Thermostat


  • The overload, relay, or capacitor


  • The defrost timer


  • The condenser fan motor


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser

Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


Good luck

Regards
PCmania


Jul 10, 2009 | Maytag Admiral Top-Freezer Refrigerator

1 Answer

Frige light on not cooling,freezer fan working but not freezing


Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.

A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

May 27, 2009 | Refrigerators

3 Answers

Freezer too cold


A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer

  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)

  • The defrost heater

If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.


May 24, 2009 | Samsung 26.0 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

The refrigerator is freezing in the drawers


Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.

Apr 01, 2009 | Whirlpool 25.6 cu. ft. Side-by-Side...

1 Answer

The freezer has ice build up on vents


Cooling is poor For an overall understanding of how refrigerators should work, read about refrigerators in the How Things Work section of our website. A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:

Evaporator coils
Condenser
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt. 

Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.

Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:

  • The defrost timer


  • The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch)


  • The defrost heater


If it still does not cool properly, there may be a problem with the refrigerant level or the compressor. You may need to consult with a qualified appliance repair technician to further diagnose the problem 

Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator. 
also click the links below for more help
It's stopped completely 
It's not cool
Cooling is poor
It's noisy 
It leaks
The freezer compartment is icing up
The food in the refrigerator freezes
There's water dripping inside the refrigerator
The refrigerator never cycles off
The ice maker has a problem
There's an ice- or water-dispensing problem

Dec 06, 2008 | Kenmore 53642 / 53644 Side by Side...

5 Answers

No water to ice maker


  • The water line that's attached to the back of the refrigerator. Make sure you have good water flow. If the flow is poor, repair, clean, or replace the tubing or the shut-off valve that supplies the water.


  • The water-inlet valve. Replace it if it has failed.

  • Jun 26, 2008 | Kenmore 5553 / 655532 / 55534 / 55539 Side...

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