Check ignitor see if glows if voltage to it bad if no voltage bad board
SOURCE: dOUBLE OVENS FROM KITCHENAID
I had same problem on similar KitchenAid model (combo microwave/oven), and it was past warranty. The noise is the blower that is used to circulate air inside the unit. We ended up fixing it ourselves, took oven out of cabinet, removed the backing (tin), and found that the blower blade unit is fairly low quality. We took it apart and found that the "axel" that holds the blades on had slipped from the hole. We put it back in, and then crimped a piece of wire around the end to hold it in place. Since then (16 months ago) no further problems.
SOURCE: Microwave will turn on but not heat
Test the high voltage capacitor,
the rectifier diode.or the magnetron.
If it additionally does not spin and no light, then check also the door switch.
The diode and capacitors can br tested. The capacitor must be allowed
discharge before testing, or you risk to get electrocuted, even if
power is off. Capacitors can get discharged by shorting their two
contacts.
Replace the magnetron if the checks and all of the high voltage component tests are good, but the unit still does not heat.
All locations, and description of this parts can be located using the diagram here: Counter top.
Parts must be tested to find out what is wrong.
Remember that microwaves are potentially dangerous devices if not repaired properly, the job must be done by a competent person.
A microwave energy leakage test must always be performed when the oven is serviced for any reason.
Regarding parts, contact the seller here to purchase parts. (here in UK).
SOURCE: ge oven turns off by itself, and sometimes gives
F2
Oven temp exceeds 590 w/ unlocked door
High resistance or interference in oven temperature sensor. Replace oven temperature sensor
F2
Note: Also see fan thermal switches
Indicates that oven is over temperature in one of the following modes within either a cooking or clean mode of operation.
· Control senses oven temperature above 650 degrees F with the door circuit in the unlock mode.
· Control senses oven temperature above 935 degrees F with the door in the locked mode.
· Stalled cooling fan or airflow problem.
· Look for welded relay contacts. (Heating elements on in off mode).
· Look for open thermal switch in lock motor circuit. Switch is normally closed and will open if area overheats due to fan not operating. Look for cause - fan thermal switch not closing, fan stalled, etc.
· Look for high resistance in the oven temperature sensor circuit due to high contact resistance (poor terminal crimp, deformed terminals, loose connection) or intermittent solder joint on control or intermittent oven temperature sensor.
· Look for electrical noise interference in the oven temperature sensor circuit (Ham radio, cordless phone, etc.).
SOURCE: convection upper oven not heating.
I Have worked on quite a few of these in the last few weeks, i have found that about 50% of these problems are caused by the control board and the other 50% caused by the thermal fuse, you can check the fuse by removing the unit from the wall and checking for continuity at the thermal fuse. If the fuse is in fact ok then it is the board that is not sending the correct amount of power to the elements. So the Power Control Board is what will need to be replaced, you can purchase both of these parts at, http://www.reliableparts.com/ by using your model number.
Please rate my solution if it was helpful to you.
If you need more in depth information or pictures on how to remove and take this machine apart, feel free to ask.
Thanks, Repairman45
SOURCE: I have a Whirlpool double
Member Discussion on Whirlpool GMC305PRS01 Microwave Oven
Whirlpool Wall oven/microwave combo unit Door message
Does anyone know where the 15 amp fuse is? I replaced the 20amp fuse and it worked for a minute or two and then I opened the door and I blew my circuit breaker. I reset my circuit breaker, replaced the 20 amp fuse and now all I get is the Door message. I also noticed that it fused the outside switch on the right side of the door so I had to open the switch up and un-fuse it. This is for a whirlpool GMC305PRS01 Wall Oven/microwave combo unit.
Also if anyone could tell me the correct position the wire is supposed to be hooked up on the switches? I had someone help me take the switch out and they unhooked the wires and now we aren't sure how they are supposed to be hooked up. My light on the microwave doesn't work either. Is it possible the bulb blew when the fuse blew?
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