Question about American Standard Heating & Cooling
Would need more info, which door are you talking about? Blower door with power switch? At what point in the firing sequence does the unit fail? So the burners ignite?
Posted on Dec 20, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
ok this can be simple or tricky is the breaker that trips the same size as the one in the breaker panel 2.look in the unit itsself see if there r breakers inside the unit there usually are and they might have tripped it might be as simple as flipping a breaker but the problem with the breaker tripping is what concerns me now it may just be undersized or getting weak and finally crapped out get ur meter and flip the breaker on and see if u r getting power to the unit if ur not u have gott a breaker that isnt letting power go thru now if u have power u might have a bad blower motor turn the unit on and calling for the fan on if the fan doesnt start try spinning the blower by hand now if it starts then u probably have a bad capacitor they r usually mounted on the side of the blower housing it is oval and its gonna be a 5mfd(microfarad) or 7.5mfd and that couldve been what was kicking the breaker now if the blower is stuck and it wont turn or its very hard to turn then make sure the blower wheel hasnt slipped on the shaft and is rubbing up against the housing if it is just loosen the set screw and set it back even and tighten it back up now if the wheel is free and its still hard to turn then u have a bad blower motor its not a big deal to change out and not real expensive if this dont help hit me back and well walk thru it hope this gets lil momma and the pets warm have a good day
Posted on Feb 26, 2010
Hi, this depends on the outdoor air temperature and type of freon this unit has. The hotter it is outdoors, the higher the pressure will be as they use a pressure/temperature relationship. If the unit is R-22 and lets say it is 90* F. out side, the low side or suction side will be at around 68 to 72 p.s.i which would give you an evaporator temperature of 40* F. Head pressure would be at around 90* plus 27*= 245p.s.i. This is if the condenser fan is in good condition and the outdoor coil is clean. If you are using a set of manifold gauges you have the pressure/temperature scale right on it. If the unit has a TXV for metering, you would need to charge it using the subcooling method. On a Non-TXV you would use the superheat method. If you are using the new R-410a freon, the pressure are extremely high in these systems compared to the R-22 system, so make sure you look at the units data plate to read the type of freon. The color of the container is green for R-22 and a Pink for R-410a and the 410 a unit will display a pink warning sticker on the unit to tell you. The pressures on the R-410 would be at 90* F, low or suction side at that temp is around 125 p.s.i., and around 400 to 420 p.s.i. on the high side, much higher then the R-22. You would also need a manifold gauge set made just for the R-410a (AZ-20) as of the extreme pressures in the system. There is never a set pressure to go by as the outdoor temperature will raise and lower the pressure of freon very fast. If you are asking this question because you have a manifold set and are taking a reading, the unit has a charging method pasted right on it from the factory showing what pressure they want it to run at. Your gauges also can be used as a pressure temperature chart, or you can pick one up free of cost at a a/c parts house to keep with you. It will show you how to calculate the charge for your unit. If you are familar with pressures, this should be of a great help to you. I hope that I have helped you on getting the unit charged properly. Please keep me in mind when rating me, as I know you will be kind. Just drop by a wholesale a/c parts house, walk in and ask for a pressure temperature chart, and they will hand you a couple of them. They have very good information and no how on all of the most common freons in use today.
Best of luck
A/C, Heating, & Refrigeration Contractor
Posted on Jul 30, 2010
SOURCE: Will not light pilot light. Why?
did you bleed the gas line?
you must loosen the connection at the water heater until you smell gas coming out, then tighten. wait at least 5 minutes before attempting to light. this will give time for the gas to dissipate
if it still wont light... are the connections to the thermocouple tight? if that is tight, might be a bad thermocouple, you will need to replace it.
Posted on Aug 10, 2010
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