Kenmore HE2 Washing machine with an F/01 code. Before I sink anymore money into an old machine, I wanted someone's advice. Are there any other steps to take before I buy a new CCU?

SOURCE: washer will not drain, seems to be plugged

Try using a wet/dry shop vac and see if you can pull water through the drain hose in the back. If you can, duct tape the vacuum nozzle to the drain hose to make a good seal. With the vacuum on, watch the drain hose under the tub. If it collapses, you have a clog somewhere. It may be easier to remove the hoses from the pump, first to see if there is anything stuck in the impeller. It doesn't take much to restrict water flow. If you need to remove the hose from the bottom of the tub, try to get as much water out using the method I mentioned. It may be slow, but as long as it can pull water, try to drain. This will save you from a big mess later. If there is a clog in the hose, all that water will gush out with the hose disconnected. You may want to have a few towels handy. Now...in some models there is a plastic ball valve in the drain hose connected under the tub. This needs to stay there, but may also be jammed with crud. Sand and dirt is notorious for clogging at this point in the drain system. This hose should come off with a simple clamp tightened with a screw. If you go through all the effort and find the lines clear, you may have a failed drain pump.

SOURCE: Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load - F11 Fault

I have also had the F11/DL problem with this machine. One technician came out and told me the following: I was not using HE detergent, the standard detergent was causing too much sudsing and the machine was having to run too long on the rinse cycle, and it was causing the F11 error. So. I got HE detergent, (it took a while to find an environmentally friendly one), but this has not solved the problem. He tried to change the MCU board - the replacement board did not work, so I'm still waiting for a replacement. He did replace the door lock mechanism, but I still get the DL error. My machines are on 3 or 4 inches of concrete, so vibration is a non-issue. I have found a good whack on the side of the machine seems to work. No kidding. Here's what happens: Stupid F11 flashes. I hit the pause/cancel button. It flashes the remaining time on the cycle. I hit the start button. Sometimes that just does it. If it doesn't I give it a whack on the left side of the machine, (if you're facing it), in the middle, about 6 to 8 inches above where the drawer is. Sometimes it's a few whacks, but I can hear a "chu-chunk" sound, which I think may be the door mechanism. Sometimes there's a sound sort of like a fritzy noise first, but then I get the "chu-chunk" sound. My husband has watched me do it, and he just shakes his head. Well, there ya go. Not buying one of these damned things again, though. I don't think it washes that well to tell you the truth. The loads often come out smelly, and have to be rewashed, and the rubber gasket at the door is a pain to keep clean. Any recommendations for a better front loader would be appreciated. Cheers! Phila

SOURCE: kenmore he2 front load washer

Open the panel with 1/4 in socket. Turn white plastic cap filter counter clockwise. remove debris. replace. Run rinse and spin cycle. reopen cap and check for any new debris. replace filter cap and put cover back on. put $65 in bank. Send note to Eddie Lampert and tell him that Sears sucks and he'll never save it as long as they keep screwing their customers by not telling them about a simple fix like like this to an obviously common problem.

SOURCE: thank you for your advice. I have a kenmore he2 plus washer

Try unplugging the washer for at least 30 minutes to reset the CCU. In some cases this will clear any minor glitches that can be generating erroneous error codes. If it does not clear, you more than likely have a component failure.

Now...it does not take much to damage these drain pumps. If anything has been left in the pump reservoir for a significant period of time, the drain pump motor and/or impeller may have been damaged. The result: a drain pump that "appears" to be running, but may not actually be pumping anything. I would recommend replacing the pump if it is not draining any longer.

Another thing to try before we assume the pump is dead is to check the drain line that runs from the bottom of the wash tub to the inlet side of the pump. I have found small items such as socks and wash cloths that have managed to work their way into this hose and clog the line. If you have already checked this area, then proceed with a pump replacement.

Although a CCU could possibly cause erroneous error codes, the likelihood that it is causing this error is not common. I doubt that you have a CCU problem, and it is a more expensive option than the drain pump.

I hope this answers your questions. Let me know if you require further assistance.

SOURCE: UL Code

Solved the unbalanced problem - open the top of the machine (press in with a flat putty knife about 3" in on the front on each side while lifting up as there are 2- 1" wide catches). Once both sides are unlatched, raise the lid then slightly lift the rear of the lid so that it fits into the curved part at the top of the hinges then open all the way - tape the lid to the top so it doesn't flap about and scotch the lid to keep it from falling back down on you. Now, look around - see all that rust?  The rust has fallen into and gotten underneath one or more of the 4 white plastic suspension "ball joints" which have probably totally dried out by now from their factory grease because of the water, bleach, and rust particles.  Having someone help you, simply lift up on one of the 4 corner suspension rods - gravity and weight is all that holds them down. The white ball will lift out of the socket and still be attached to the rod. Clean out the rust, lightly sand the "socket" with emery cloth, then slop in a fingerful of grease. I used automotive wheel bearing grease with graphite in it. Also scrub off all embedded rust on the white plastic ball. Lower that corner back into the newly cleaned and greased socket and repeat for the other 3 corners. Now when you move the tub around notice how the balls pivot in their sockets like they are supposed to. When they were dry and rusty they wouldn't move enough to allow the tub to twist like it should so it slammed around.  Now, shake your head in disgust that after only 2 years there is so much rust that you wonder if it will make it another year before falling apart, close the lid, and try another load.  That totally solved my off-balance problem where even a single handkerchief would give the UL error. It is still a finicky machine, but at least once again works like it did when new.