My Cuisinart kettle won't work.The blue light comes on to light up the water level indicator,and a blue lights come on,with a message that reads Err.Is there any way I can fix this at home?.Thankyou.

SOURCE: Asko dishwasher 1475 indicates high water level

The "High Water Level" in the machine can be triggered not only by the Styrofoam operated switch in the safety tray under the machine's tub, but also by the Overfill Pressure Switch pictured here

My previous post describes the erratic behavior this switch can cause. It seemed almost at random, the "High Water Level" condition would occur in whatever cycle I used.



It is easily located at the end of a small rubber hose visible when the kick panel and service covers are removed. Look just above where the electrical power terminal block is. The switch is held in place by the clip protruding from the top (as shown in the picture above). The sides of the clip need to be pressed towards the center to release the switch. I simply rotated the switch until the clip was turned to the longer side of the rectangular hole it clips in to. It then just fell out.

This pressure switch triggers the drain pump when too much water enters the machine, but it can malfunction and will keep the drain pump running "forever" until you turn off the breaker. Unfortunately, until the problem is rectified, the dishwasher "remembers" what it was doing when you disconnected the power and when you re apply power, the drain pump will again start draining your already empty dishwasher.

I pulled the connectors attached to the spade terminals on the switch back a bit and then forward as far as they would go ensuring all the wires had continuity from the terminal to the opposite end of the wire it was attached to. When I re applied the power, the empty dry dishwasher attempted to start up where it left off in the cycle it was on, but the "High Water Level" conditioned cleared. Pressing and holding the single button opposite the light left on canceled the cycle and the machine went into standby as it should.

I hope this helps someone else. Until I "Googled" the part number printed on the switch, I didn't know what triggered the "overfill" or "High Water Level" condition.

Part number on the part was 8058475. I also found out the small hose attached is part number 8058500. The small hose is not as readily available as the pressure switch, so extra care should be used when handling it.

SOURCE: "Err"or message with beeping

Same message here. Did anyone buy it a costco? I'm hoping they'll take it back. Andrew Victoria BC

SOURCE: my old field watch is showing an err (error) and the internal klight wont work

I changed the battery in my PRT 50 but Alt and Baro still not working the light and Compass however is??

SOURCE: kettle shuts off before boiling?

I had a similar failure. Switch it on and the lights flicker and go out before it boils. Took it apart (Tamper Proof TORX, available from Snap-On, Canadian Tire, probably most auto parts places that also sell tools). The On-Off switch has a mechanical lock out for the lid being open and also for when it is not mounted on the base. The kettle also has three bi-metallic temperature switches. One shuts off the kettle after it has boiled long enough. The other two sit up against the element assembly adjacent to each end of the heating element.They protect against boiling an empty kettle by sensing the higher element temperture when there is no water to conduct away the heat. In the case where the lights flicker and go out, but the switch stays 'On' these are the likely culprit.
In my kettle the contacts did not line up correctly. Instead of making good contact they were only partially overlapping like a couple of the olympic rings or a couple of rings from the Audi logo. This resulted in a localized increased resistance and high heat in one of the contact holders which eventually melted the surrounding plastic. At that point the wires going to the element behaved a bit like springs which forced the contact holder further out of alignment until it all became hot enough to trigger the thermal switch.
I fixed it by bending the contact holder, which is fused into the now hardened plastic, to the optimal position and hopefully it will not generate enough heat to remelt the plastic or trip the thermal switch.
I have boiled a couple of kettlefuls; so far so good!

What ticks me off about this is that I don't mind getting 'Made In China' ****; everything comes from China anyway. But don't charge me a ridiculous amount of money and try to pretend that I am getting a superiour product. If I had paid twenty dollars or less for it I would just chuck it and get the same one again because it looks nice, pours well, doesn't burn the hands, worked OK for couple of years, etc. Instead I walk away from this feeling really ripped off. I have a house full of Braun products(shaver, kettle multiple tooth brushes) but now I won't buy any more.

Oh and if you take your kettle apart and your house burns down it is not my fault. There, now I feel better.

SOURCE: Coolant level and blue temp light

Manual states that when the fluid is cold it will show up blue then as it wanrms up it goes away. a normal function. It's in the owner manual somewhere.