Powers on, then immediately shuts off. More detailed in comments below
This is too aggravating!!!!!!! Characters characters
Hello Kathy: All clothes dryers work on the same basic principle...
1.) Air Flow
2.) Heat
3.) Rotation
Your problem may lie in your duct work configuration and how the exhaust gases are vented; the mere fact that you had blockage could have overheated the dryer's high limit thermostat and/or the thermal fuse...BUT, before I go any further...I need to talk to you about safety!
Gas dryers give off combustion gases that are toxic and DEADLY; DO NOT VENT YOUR DRYER UNDER YOUR HOUSE SLAB to the outside! Especially that you report that it gets WET inside that underground slab- it's against NFPA fire codes (municipal and state building codes, as well) to do that. If that slab ever collapses partially or fully, you'll have no way of knowing it and the toxic gases will back-up into your house.
The safer venting method should be done with 4 inch solid wall vent pipe; and should be vented directly outside. Maximum duct work (straight run of ducting without the use of any elbows) for your model gas dryer, is 65 feet.
If you are using 1- 90 degree, the total length reduces to 55 feet, including the elbow in that measurement
The use of 2- 90 degree elbows, 47 feet; for 3- 90 degree elbows, 36 feet, and for 4- 90 degree elbows, 28 feet- maximum length.
These are per your manufacturer's installation specifications.
Although you should not use more than 4- 90 degree elbows in your configuration, in the event you do, you would deduct 6 feet for each additional elbow used. You want to make sure that you can visibly see the vent pipe (to visually inspect it for defects or for ease of access to clean and service)- and never keep flammables of sorts near the vent pipe due to the heat that they radiate.
I choose solid vent pipe over foil or plastic (in my home, rental properties, and when I do installs) because lint does have a tendency to burn inside the duct work...which could lead to perforation and/or fire. Plus many manufacturers recommend solid vent pipe over other types; and I do not recommend using screws to connect solid vent pipe together with, since lint can catch on the exposed screw that protrudes into the duct. Use a combination of, heat rated duct tape and dryer vent clamps.
Some installers or readers of this will think that this is excessive, costly, and not necessary; through my life's experiences, I have seen unfortunate yet avoidable tragedies. (Don't forget to check & clean your dryer ducts at least once-a-year!- I do mine at the start and end of DST- the same day we change the clocks and the batteries on our smoke and carbon monoxide detector alarms.)
Now, concerning the rest of the troubleshooting process, are you getting any trouble code errors on the electronic panel? If so, what are they?
You have several choices, you can disconnect and remove the high limit thermostat and thermal fuse and check them for continuity or call tech support using their smart diagnosis procedures as outlined on page 35 of you owner's manual. Or you can disconnect the dryer at it's power source (outlet or circuit breaker) and wait a half hour; see if the electronic computer panel resets. Then try running the dryer.
Please let me know how you made out or if you need more help.
The cycling thermostat controls the heat. Notice the 4 wires. Their 2 small wires and 2 large wires. The small wires operate a tine heater inside the control. If I want to dry knits I would heat that control up so that it would cycle at 130 degrees instead of 160 for cottons.Cycling thermostats rarely go out. They are always mounted on the blower housing. Those other themostat's you see near the element are high limits. Their is a 250f limit and a 300f limit and if they both fail their is a duct fuse which is rated at 350f and tied into the door circuit on electric dryers and gas assembly circuit on gas models.
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