Question about Kenmore Microwave Ovens

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Kenmore elite microwave model 721.7915 wire harness attachment point to thermostat began to melt. I can replace wire harness and thermostat but what caused this? Will it happen again?

I have already once replaced (probably 3 months ago or more) the lower door contact switch, microwave would continue to run even when you opened door.

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6 Suggested Answers


6ya staff

  • 2 Answers


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Microwave runs when door open

This is probably a a bad door switch or door switch mount. Chances are only the fan and light are running when you open it, but better safe than sorry. Opening the door while cooking (without first hitting the STOP pad) is the primary cause of door switch failure but not the only one. I have a text file called "doorsw.txt" which helps in diagnosing and repairing door switch problems, and a file called "safety.txt" which is of vital importance. You can find these files by searching at (not Google) for this: microwave display safety.txt If you still have a problem, please write back with more detail. Be safe!

Posted on Nov 21, 2006


Tracy Farrell

  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: GE Microwave JE1640 works only when holding the switch

VK, most likely the switch body has become loose and it's out of adjustment. Unfortunately, to gain access to it, you'll have to remove the MW from the cabinet, set it on a suitable work area and disassemble it. Before doing anything like this, please read the following link carefully and ask yourself if you're up to it... Remove the trim then remove the screws holding the MW. Pull the MW out and rotate slightly to see where it's plugged in and unplug it. Then pull it all the way out. Remove all the aluminum trim from the MW and all the screws holding the cabinet. To remove the cabinet, stand behind the MW and grasp both sides... pull back and up at the same time. Set aside. NOW!!! DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR AS PER THE INSTRUCTIONS IN THE LINK ABOVE!!! OK, up by the control panel, you'll see the latch/lock assy. (it has 3 brown switches mounted to it). It's held in place by 2 screws, the lower screw is the one you'll be working on. Adjust this by opening and closing the door and watch the action on how it works and make your adjustments as needed. Now, you'll need to test it before reinstalling. Plug it in, BUT DON'T TOUCH ANY WIRING! Now give it a try. If you need to make another adjustment, DISCHARGE THE CAPACITOR AGAIN BEFORE DOING SO!!! Do this every time you plug and unplug! Continue adjusting 'til you get it. Now, there's a chance that one of those switches is about to go bad and the mounting bracket is fine. In this case, those switches are generic... not GE specific. Remove the wiring from the switches and make notes on their respective locations. Remove the switches from the bracket (starting from the top) and label them 1, 2 and 3. Take these to your local appliance parts store and ask for generic replacements, they are cheap... about 5 bucks each. Then replace them in the same order you removed them. And re-test. This will get you fixed, but please be careful working on Microwave ovens. They are dangerous!

Posted on Sep 27, 2007


William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Microwave Door Switch Problem?

That model number has too many digits after the JVM. Could it be JVM1339BW02 or JVM1339BW002?

If one is bad, it's probably the bottom switch, whose wiring goes back to the power relay, thermostat, or fuse, depending on eact model.

The switch with thin wires going to a ltitle connector on the board is the door sense switch. That's not likely your culprit.

I usually recommend you replace them all while you're at it.

It sounds like it may actually be a loose or misaligned door or door switch mount.

If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:

GE models have a very helpful "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel. Handy in troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Dec 04, 2007


William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: MIcrowave oven stopped heating - Whirlpool MH6150XMS

Generally, the most common causes of a failure to heat are:

- bad door switches or door switch mounts
- loose connection at the magnetron
- problem or loose connection on the control unit circuit board
- bad magnetron or other high voltage part (such as a shorted diode)

If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa:

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here:

There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel, which is very helpful when troubleshooting.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

Posted on Mar 20, 2008


William Miller

  • 9179 Answers

SOURCE: Broken door latch on Model 63679 Kenmore Elite Microwave.

You have to separate the door panels (as shown in the attached photo) and then you'll see the previously hidden screws you need to remove.

Or you can watch a YouTube video (not a video I made) that demonstrates how it's done.

You can find helpful exploded views by entering your full Kenmore model number at the Sears parts site.

A full Sears/Kenmore model number has 3 digits, a dot, then 8 more digits, such as ###.########

Please be aware that you may have a broken spring mounting tab on the inner door panel.

In such cases, the best way to fix that is to drill a hole in the remaining material, insert the spring, then add a dab of epoxy where they spring attaches to the panel.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.


Posted on Jan 18, 2009

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it is usually the lower switch by the door button. if you press the door button to open the door while the magnetron is engergized, there is a spark at the contacts of that lower switch. after doing that for months, the contacts become pitted and overheat. the switch will usually be discolored and even melted at the terminal where the wires attach. very rarely is it the transformer, cap or diode, but it does happen.

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As I understand your question, everything works in your microwave except there is no heat, is this correct?

Typically there are two common reasons for no heat. The third is very expensive. I will cover the problems in order.

1) Do you regularly open the oven door while the machine is running? If yes, every time you open the door, the door safety interlock switch (a little micro switch) arcs at the tiny contacts. After a while, they become burned and are not able to complete the circuit that tells the oven the door is closed . . . door open, no heat. (forget what you know about the door being closed, the oven needs to kow)

2) There is a capacitor in your machine. They are very dangerous to work on if you do not understand their operation and the danger they represent. A capacitor stores power necessary to start the magnatron, the device that allows the heat process to begin. If mis-handled they can be lethal.

3) The mangnatron can be bad. This is extremely rare.

There may be other reasons for no heat complaint but lets deal with the first one first.

Remove the cover - don't touch the silver can (the capacitor) Look for the micro switches that are the door safety interlock. Find them opposite the hinge. Test them with a volt/omh meter. With the door closed the switch contacts should read closed. On some ovens, there are multiple switches and on some ovens one of the switches may read open. You will have to examine the switchs to see what they should be doing when at rest (normally open or normally closed).

If you cannot determine normally open or normally closed, you can still check the switches. If the door is open and the switch reads OPEN (the position of the contacts - no signal can pass open contacts), close the door. If it still reads OPEN - that switch is probably bad. Test all the switches (I have seen as many as three switches making up the safety device)

Modern capacitors are supose to drain their power within a certain amount of time rendering them safe to work on. There are many warnings against shorting the contacts of the capacitor to ground with a screw driver. The reason is it is a dangerous procedure unless done correctly (dangerous to the person holding the screw driver and possibly harmful to the oven).

A microwave repairman told me many years ago to use insulated pliers and remove the leads and reinsert them on to the terminals. He said this is frequently the reason the capacitor appears to be dead. He then did the procedure on my microwave and charged me $100.00 for the service call. The machine continues to work fine these many years later.

If your switches are fine and your capacitor is good (they are replacable (though dangerous if not handled with care)) the remaining main item is the magnatron. Unless you have a very expensive machine, it is probably not economical to repair this item.

You can find replacement parts at a advertiser or a appliance parts place in your area or visit

I hope I have answered your question and I hope you are able to get your oven going again. I don't know what we would do without our microwave! You probably feel the same.

Thank you for posting your question on

Please vote

thank you


Nov 09, 2009 | Emerson MW8107WA Microwave Oven

1 Answer

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This is a standard generic answer for you. I dont know what a silver card is. If your machine runs but will not heat, this is classic door safety interlock switch failure. Unplug your machine, remove the cover and DO NOT UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES touch the leads on the silver can.

You will find the interlock switches at the top or probably right hand side of the door (away from the hinge).

You can check the contacts with a volt/ohm meter or other contunity checking device. Your switches should read "closed" when the door is closed and 'open' when the door is open.

Typically, we (read "I") open the door while it is running to check the contents. This causes arcing at the tiny contact points in the micro switch which will eventually burn the contacts up. When that happens, the switch doesnt "close" and the machine thinks the door is open and as such, it will not turn on the magnatron.

Let me know if this works for you.


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It's probably one of the switches that cuts the power to the microwave when you open the door. Mine is GE 700 watts and has 3 of those, and the one in the middle went bad so a week ago I temporarily bypassed the switch (while I get one) by cutting both wires that go to the switch and put electrical tape at the end of each wire. The switch was supposed to be a normally open switch but it had continuity with the door open or closed, and it should only have continuity (be closed) when the door is open.

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There should be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.

Can you scan and e-mail or photocopy & fax the "schematic diagram" portion of the mini-manual to me?

Feel free to contact me directly for more information & help.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

William E. Miller
fax 866-481-2802

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It's probably a bad door switch or door switch mount.

We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

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If you or a friend decide to look into it, we have critical safety information, info on door switch diagnosis and replacement, and
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