A 15 amp breaker is bad.. the electrical guy said they were only available on line. He said you have to buy a used one. Is this true?

do a amp check on the compressor and fans.That will tell you exactly what is overloading.

just open the box on the panel there will be the correct type to buy good luck been a electrician for so time now

A circuit breaker can go bad, but usually not in the way that you describe. That's not to say that it can't happen, but just not typical. GTE Sylvania breakers were once popular - I installed quite a few GTE / Sylvania electrical panels in homes in the late 80's. You may have trouble finding replacements; do not put an breaker that "fits" into the panel, unless the breaker is designed for use in the panel you have.

The first thing to do is determine the source of the problem. The breaker will trip, but not indicate if it was the result of a heavy electrical load or a ground fault condition. A 15 amp circuit breaker is designed to carry up to 12 amps continuously. The greater the load, the more quickly it will trip. it may carry a 14.5 amp load for several minutes to an hour before tripping, and a 20 amp load may be carried a second or two. GFI breakers are designed to carry 5 thousandths (.005) of an amp (or 5 milliamps) to ground, or the 12+ amps to neutral before they trip.

The way I would attack the problem is to install a new GFI outlet in front of the old wiring, by "inserting it" between the panel and the other plugs and lights, switches, etc on that circuit. The GFI outlet will provide the same GFI protection that the circuit breaker provided at a fraction of the cost.

Turn off the old GFI breaker, and remove it completely. Install a new, standard (non-GFI) single pole 15 amp circuit breaker in its place. Completely remove from the panel the cable that the old GFI breaker fed. Buy a new electrical outlet box (surface or flush mount as desired) that is large enough and deep enough for a GFI plug and 2 cables (if surface mount, use a 4" square deep box and appropriate cover - or if flush mounting use a deep plastic / fiber single gang box). It will be installed in a place close to the panel, but where the old cable will be able to reach inside. Bring the old cable removed from the panel into the new box. Run a new cable that has the same number and size wires from the panel into the new box, too. Connect the circuit neutral and circuit ground to the neutral and ground bars in the panel (they are probably the same bar) and the hot wire to the circuit breaker. make sure that the circuit breaker is OFF. Twist the two ground wires together and combine an 8 inch length of bare or green insulated wire with them in a wirenut.

Next, wire a new GFI plug in the new box. Connect the green wire from the wirenut to the green terminal of the GFI outlet.

Connect the plug's LINE terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you ran from the panel to the outlet box.

Now, connect the GFI plug's LOAD terminals to the neutral and hot wires in the cable that you removed from the panel and reinstalled into the new outlet box.

Secure the GFI outlet into the box and install the cover. Cover the electrical panel.

Power up and test. if the GFI trips, there's a ground fault in the circuit. If the circuit breaker trips, the circuit is overloaded.

could be you have a bad breaker. your old motor stresed the breaker now its weak. that motor draws 9.6 amps @ 230v i wold stay with the 15 amp, just get a new one.. jay the pool pump repair guy in longwood Florida

You will solve the problem of the breaker tripping but you'll create a fire hazard as the wiring may overheat because of what you are drawing through the line. If you need a higher amp circuit breaker for the load you are creating on the line, you need to make sure the wiring can also handle the extra load. You'd be way better off by spreading the load over several different circuits or installing another line to reduce the load on the line that's tripping the breaker.

Here are links that show basic wiring inside a breaker box.

Please look at the images.
If you need more help, answer back and we'll go to the next step

http://waterheatertimer.org/See-inside-main-breaker-box.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/240-v-water-heater-circuit.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Circuit-breakers.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Color-codewire2.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/Figure-Volts-Amps-Watts-for-water-heater.html

Breaker size:
15 amp breaker connects to 14 gauge wire
20 amp breaker connects to 12 gauge wire
30 amp breaker connects to 10 gauge wire
Home Depot and Lowes have a breaker and wire size size chart next to wire cutting machine
These stores have guys who know the basic breaker size for your big appliances
Each appliance has a name plate showing wattage and voltage.
The wattage tells you what size wire.
The voltage tells you what size breaker and whether you need a 120V breaker or 240V breaker.

To lay out your home wiring:
The kitchen microwave needs a 20Amp 120V 'dedicated' line that goes just to the microwave.
The rest of the kitchen plugs are served by another 20 amp 120V breaker
When laying out rest of house, figure how much wattage might be used in an area.
For example the den might have a big 500Watt TV, and 2 ceiling fans and 4 lights.
Add up the wattage and decide how many plugs and switches you want on each breaker.
Now let's say you have a 20Amp breaker which can carry 1920 Watts for the den.
Inside the breaker box you have a 12 gauge wire for the 20 Amp breaker.
The 12 gauge wire has a black, white and bare ground.
The black connects to breaker. The white and ground connect to Neutral busbar.
The 12 gauge wire leaves the breaker box and goes to the first box in the den.
This box is your junction box.
The junction box can be a switch box or a ceiling light box.
You cannot have any junction boxes that are covered by drywall.
Junction boxes must be accessible. All boxes must be accessible.
For example, you choose a ceiling box for your junction box.
The junction box is also the same box your ceiling light connect to.
From your junction box, you branch off a wire that goes to next box.
And then a wire branches off next box and goes to next box. And so on.

If you need more help, answer back and we can help.

LIGHT SWITCH 15 AMP FUSE CIRCUIT BREAKER / TAIL , DOME , COURTESY 10 AMP FUSE / MANUAL RADIO 4 AMP FUSE / AUTOMATIC RADIO 7.5 AMP FUSE / HEATER 10 AMP FUSE / AIR-CONDITIONER 20 AMP FUSE / BACK UP AND BRAKE ON 10 AMP FUSE / POWER ANTENNA 15 AMP FUSE. THE ELECTRICAL BOOK DIDNT HAVE A DIAGRAM BUT IT TOLD WHAT AMP EACH COMPONENT USES AND VOLTS FROM GENERATOR. IF YOU HAVE A 55 CORVETTE YOU HAVE 6 VOLT ELECTRICAL SYSTEM.IF THIS DONT HELP YOU CAN GO ON LINE AND BUY A 59 CORVETTE REPAIR MANUAL.

It should tip out, probably from the center to the right or the left.

Did you purchase it yet? Your best bet is to go to a electric supply place, NOT THE BIG BOX PLACE, and as you purchase it, talk with the guy that is selling you the product.

You are replacing it in kind, right? Remember,it is the wire you are protecting -

Thanks for using FixYa.com

Read this:
http://books.google.com/books?id=_mCFucEr08oC&pg=PA31&lpg=PA31&dq=nec:+recepticles%3B+number+per+circuit&source=bl&ots=XRwj6ct4NA&sig=6d056PYx6x7QKkprXwi57VoJuIg&hl=en&ei=_i_ASrLEKqrg8AaFrrywAQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=2#v=twopage&q=&f=true


If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

It sound like all of those go through your bathroom GFCI. I would recommend moving your outdoor circuit breaker indoors if possible or enclosing it to make it water-proof. You may also do some rewiring from your main breaker box ( if you are handy) to eliminate the outdoor box completely considering you have 100 amp / 200 amp breaker box inside your house. If you still have an old FUSE BOX with 60 amp service, I would recommend replacing it with a 100 amp or 200 amp breaker box depending on the size of your house. I would separate the laundry room by itself with 12/2 gauge wire with ground on a 20 amp breaker. You can then take your bathroom (using 12/2 gauge wire with ground keeping your gfci ) and run it to another breaker in the house with a 20 amp breaker or add a new one if there is room in your main box. Now all you have left is the porch light. You can run that separate from everything to your main breaker box using 14/2 gauge with ground to a breaker in your main box by adding a new 15 amp breaker or adding it to another 15 amp breaker that does not have a very high load such as a bedroom. In general Kitchens, Bathrooms, Laundry rooms should be on there own separate 20 amp breakers. Most every other room can be 14/2 with ground on a 15 amp breaker... hope this helps....Joe