Whirlpool heavy duty extra large capacity washer,washes, water drains, won't spin, makes a humming noise (not loud) when trying to spin

SOURCE: Washer not spinning/agitat

This problem is usually attributed to a broken motor coupling. The following link provides step-by-step instructions on how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top

The motor coupling is a small 3-piece component that is installed behind the drive motor and couples it to the transmission. It is common for these small couplers to break as they wear out. The key symptom in determining the cause is the fact the washer will not agitate, but still drains. The reason is because your drain pump is mounted on the front of the drive motor and will still run as long as the drive motor is running. The part number is provided in the link I gave you. A replacement coupler can be purchased at searspartsdirect.com, appliancepartspros.com, pcappliancerepair.com or repairclinic.com. All these sites offer great service with competitive pricing, so shop all of them for the best price. Make sure you "Search by Part Number" when looking up the part. This shouldn't cost more than $20. If you do not wish to order on line, take the part number I provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common item they should have in their inventory.

If you have questions along the way, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

SOURCE: Whirlpool Ultimate Care Heavy Duty Washer will not spin

It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. This is a very inexpensive and simple repair.

If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385252-replacing_motor_coupling_whirlpool_top
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.

SOURCE: kenmore heavy duty extra large capacity washer

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.13212200&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

If it neither drains nor spins, the first thing to check is the Lid Switch. This prevents the machine from draining and spinning if the lid is open.

I assume that you cannot hear the motor trying to turn.

See the following for how to access the console and Lid Switch connection.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=6f8112b458c05fcc8f6d1a4139b9a723

Following is a Whirlpool installation and maintenance PDF on top load, direct drive washers. It has a description of how to by-pass the switch.

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf8525712

2007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, remove the two plastic clips from the console,

remove the two screws under the clips, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire,

jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.