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Ngia Yang Posted on Sep 13, 2018

How to aim on a shotgun for still targets at 20 yard with shot 4 steel shot

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Jim

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  • Contributor 39 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 30, 2018
Jim
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Joined: Jan 12, 2011
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Hi,
What is the type of choke you are using? You want a FULL choke for the tightest pattern. Then you need to "pattern" your shotgun. Put a large piece of cardboard (4' x 4') on a range backstop at 20 yards and place a highly visible 3 inch orange dot or simply draw a 3 inch letter x in the middle of the cardboard. Take a string, 36 inches long and staple it to the center of the dot or X then tie a pencil on the other end. Stretch the string out and draw a perfect circle on the cardboard 36 inches from the center, then remove the string and pencil. From a shooting bench, use a shooting rest to steady your aim. Shoot at the center dot or X by pointing the shotguns bead sight directly at the dot or x
Look at the pattern of holes the shot pellets made. If they are mostly centered within the 36 inch circle, your hold would be right on the target. If they would, say, be up from center, the hold would be below the target. Up and to the right, the hold would be down and to the left, etc.
A gunsmith can correct this and make the gun shoot so that your hold would be on the target instead of trying to compensate for the barrel characteristics of your shotgun.

4 Related Answers

agent91

Ned White

  • 2100 Answers
  • Posted on Mar 03, 2010

SOURCE: I have an old H&R1871 Topper shotgun patened in feb

Yes you can, those old shotguns were pretty much all the same, a lot of the parts interchange, but go to gunparts.com, they have everything there, if not, find Jackfirst, He has a ton of stuff. I have the same gun right here that was my fathers, bought in 1913 for $13, almost 100 years old!!!

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agent91

Ned White

  • 2100 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 24, 2010

SOURCE: I had my 6.8SPC dead on at 100....I went and shot

You have to check inside the right cap for the MOA, if it is 1/4 MOA, it will not adjust 56 inches. You will need to shim the bases to get it up there and then you have a small window up and down. But, check the ballistic table for that bullet and then determine where the best zero will be, Like maybe 300 yards, then it only has a few inches to go to get 600, and a few inches down for 100. I am not familiar at all with the 6.8, I mess with military ammo only. But I don know what bullets do. Hope this helps.

Anonymous

  • 21 Answers
  • Posted on Jan 08, 2011

SOURCE: Top Shot Elite not aiming correctly. The trigger

Cablela's Dangerous Hunts 2011: How-to-Guide for the Top Shot Elite by Activision Hunts


http://www.facebook.com/note.php?note_id=174694822565847

Anonymous

  • 593 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 02, 2011

SOURCE: Hi, I have a Tasco

This does sound like it needs a bit of Loctite. But, You need to check this first, Is the scope being put in a bind due to heat from shooting. So, shoot for your group but wait say 7 to 8 minutes in between each shot. If in this case the gun stays on target every time, she is just getting hot and the heat is causing expansion in the mount / receiver area. If she jumps around during you timed shooting, then Loctite her in place, and Retry. If your sighting in slugs for deer hunting, your shots will always be from a cold gun, she needs to be on target cold not hot.

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Related Questions:

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Vx3i 4.5-14x50mm with cds turret tops out at about 450 yards. Turret gets tight. Shooting 300 win mag zeroed at 200 yards 180 grain boat tail loads. Am I maxing out my adjustment with the 1" tube?

Probably. You can use a 1913 rail with a forward incline to get more elevation. How far are you trying to shoot? 450 yards is further than most hunters will try to take game because of terminal ballistics and ability to precisely place the shot for a clean, humane kill. Target shooting is still getting close to out of range - bullet drop on a 300 win mag 180 grainer is pretty severe - at 500 yards it is falling 55 inches, and it gets progressively worse with heavier bullets and longer ranges.

At less than 300 yards this caliber will take down any large game animal in North America. You have chosen a very effective caliber, but all calibers have limitations.
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Will this scope work with a savage 220 shotgun?

Look at red-dot optics. You don't really need magnification with a shotgun and you will want something you can get on target quickly.
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I have an Iver Johnson Cadet Model: 55S-A. 32 cal. 2 1/2 in BBL. 5 shots Serial No B27690. I would like to know more about the gun.


The Iver Johnson Cadet was offered as (the basic gun) as the Model 55 Target, and the 55A then the 55S Cadet and the 55S-A Cadet. The "parent" is discribed as: IVER JOHNSON MODEL 55 TARGET,Revolver,double-action,22LR,8-shot,4 1/2",6" bbls and 10 3/4"(6") 9 1/4"(4 1/2") over all length weight 24 oz.(4 1/2") 26os(6"); large frame,pull pin cylinder release with flash control front rim; recessed cylinder chambers;fixed sights,oversized molded one piece Tenite plastic target type grips; Does not have the "hammer the Hammer'action,matte blue finish; After 1958 cylinder is fluted hard chrome lined barrel introduced in 1955; dropped from production in 1979..the .38 caliber offering is designated as the Model 55S-A which is the same as the above except that: it was offered in .22LR,.32 S&W and .38 S&W(this is NOT a .38S&W Special) and as an 8-shot in .22, as a 5-shot in both .32 and .38. it is 7 1/2" oal w/ loading gate on the Right side AFter 1974/1975 this model is called"I J Cadet it was introduced in 1961 and dropped in 1979 Values: Vgood=$110..Good=$85 and Fair=$75. This data is from the Gun Digest Book of Modern Gun Values and more detailed Iver Johnson histroy can be had from www.gunshowbooks.com..check out Bill Goforth's Iver Johnson Arms&Cycle Works Firearms 1871-1993..Bill also frequents these forums and he along with Jim Hauff will likely correct any misinformation I may heve relayed as well as correct any ommisions.
Oct 04, 2018 • Firearms
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JC Higgins model 20 shotgun weight

Weigh it by differential process - weigh yourself. Then weigh yourself holding the gun. Subtract that weight from the first one and there you are.
Apr 26, 2018 • Firearms
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L C Smith dbl SXS 16 field grade shot gun. Left barrel says Hunter Arms Co. Inc. Mfrs Fulton NY USA. Back of barrels and on action are #'s FW 101398. Trying to determine age and value?

Hello, John -

If you have not yet discovered the L. C. Smith Collectors Association web site, then this is the link to the association home page:
http://www.lcsmith.org/index.html

Reading the association's article here may prove instructive about your shotgun:
http://www.lcsmith.org/shotguns/1913grades.html

On the association home page, in the left side bar, scroll down to the link for Shotguns. Through that link you will find a link for Year of Manufacture. Click or tap on that link.

On the web page for Year of Manufacture, near the bottom, you will find this sentence:
(Quote)
To obtain all of the existing information about your shotgun, the Research Division of the L.C. Smith Collectors Association can search the factory production records and can provide this information in a letter.
(End quote)
http://www.lcsca.clubexpress.com/
There is a charge for such research, however.

Best wishes.
Mar 19, 2018 • Firearms
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1answer

I have a small frame 7 shot 22 Cal. break top H&R revolver. I was told my grandfather carried it in WWI. Serial# 371177. I would like to know the manufacture date and if it was an Army issue.

James

Decoding H&R serial numbers is not easy and it takes up quite a bit of the H&R book as different models usually have seperate serial number series. gererally speaking there were three types of serial number series.
Pre 1905 (1904 and before) which were more like batch numbers and usually ran from 1 to 99,999. on some models there was a different series every year.
Post 1904 (1905 to 1939) one single series starting at 1 and going into the middle 6 digits (some third model auto-ejecting revolvers have been observed with number in the 800,000 range.
Ift here does not look like there are any markings on the left side of the barrel other than the caliber this would be the premier model fitted with extra cost oversize grips and 6 inch barrel. during the same time (1925-1934)frame H&R offered this revolver as the H&R TARGET (aka model 766) the only difference was H&R Target was marked on the barrel. by the time the premier model was fitted with a longer barrel and oversize grips the cost was about the same for the two models. the offering of the H&R Target model was just another way to try to sell more revolver. factory serial numbers are not available for this model so i believe this revolver was manufactured before the H&R Target was introduced in 1924 (most likely 1920 to 1923)
below is information of both models.

H&R PREMER SECOND MODEL SMALL FRAME TOP BREAK R.F. & C.F. ----------1905-1941
Small fame double action top break revolver with double top post barrel latch; calibers and cylinder capacity, 22 rimfire-7 rounds, 32 S&W, 5 rounds; automatic cylinder stop; standard finish Nickel with case harden hammer and barrel latch; standard barrel length 3 inches, with 2, 4, 5 and 6 inches available as optional; HAS CALIBER MARKINGS ON LEFT SIDE OF BARREL WAS MANUFACTURED FOR SMOKELESS POWDER CARTRIDGE PRESSURES.
There has not been enough data gathered on serial number to try to come up with a serial number range for the different variations.
First Variation, model name & caliber marked on left side of barrel, patent dates 5-14-89, 4-2-95, 4-7-96---------------1905-Only
Second Variation, model name & caliber marked on left side of barrel, patent dates 4-2-95, 4-7-96-------------------1906-1908
Third Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel, patent date 10-8-95-------1909-1913
Fourth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel, no patent date, state not spelled out in address (MASS)---------1914-1915
Fifth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel same as 4th except different font used in barrel markings----------1914-1915
Sixth Variation, caliber only marked on left side of barrel. State name in barrel marking spelled out (MASSACHUSETTS)-----1916-1924
Seventh Variation, new grip frame, there is no step down for the grip panels to fit into-----1925-1942
After 1930 listed in catalogs as; PREMIER No. 30 .22 Rimfire 7 shot & PREMIER No. 35.32 S&W 5 shot
VALUE: 100%=$265 60%=$75 Add 10% premium for blue finish; 20% premium 4", 5" or 6" barrel; 20% premium for 22 rimfire caliber; 10% premium for 7th variation
If this is a top break it is a H&R Premier model manufactured in the 1924 to 1930 era or one of its variations. if it is a solid frame model it is a model 1906 or one of its variations manufactured in the 1932 to 1937 era. without a picture or knowning the exact markings i can't give you an exact model.
1940 and after letter codes used to denote year of manufacture. starting with A in 1940 and going to BC in 1986.
Caliber markings on the side of the barrel ALWAYS indicate 1905 or after manufacture. when H&R made the switch to smokeless powder in 1905 they started marking the caliber on the left side of the barrel of all their handguns. no caliber markings = black powder, caliber markings = smokeless powder.
Please keep in mind that H&R did not always obey their own rules and there are exception to every rule. during 1890 though 1904 H&R was manufacturing so many top break revolvers they starting using a letter code after 100,000 had been reached. these letter code were stamped along with the serial number on the bottom of the top strap (the cylinder had to be removed to see this location).
Hammerless Bicycle models (1899-1920). the caliber markings and 6 digit serial number indicate it is a second model and if in good condition it should be safe with modern ammo. the bicycle hammerless (small frame, 2 inch barrel) is serial numbered in the same series as the regular small frame hammerless model.

Pete
Apr 11, 2017 • Firearms
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