Hello, Today I installed an Eco Wall Panel heater. Model PH 08E. Plugged in, turned on.

SOURCE: jenn-air expressions 27" convection wall oven model wm27460 won't heat

reset your breaker reprogram the clock try again what happend last time it was working self clean broiling etc

SOURCE: 2005 2.2 Holden Vectra Heater failure

Hi there.
Not sure of this model, but I'll do what I can.

Put simply, there is no hot water reaching your heater matrix.

This may be bacause -
A - It's blocked (sometimes caused by sediment or radweld products)
B - There's an airlock in the system.
C - the valve controlling flow is not working.

So....
Check for rusty gunk in radiator. If yes, remove hoses to heater matrix and flush with a hosepipe. Reconnect and fill with antifreeze mix.

Listen for any gurgling going on. Remove (small) heater hose when engine has just started (so not hot)
(!!! coolant will come out!!!) but should remove airlock. By remove I mean loosten clip and wiggle it untill you get a trickle of coolant out of the side - then tighten clip again. - Aim for around a cupfull of loss.

3 - check that the control from the dash is actually moving a cable to open a water valve somewhere. Plactic parts break unfortunately.

Hope this helps you get warm again !
Richie.

SOURCE: sta-rite pool heater SR333LP

This heater has a thermal regulator and a high limit that could be the problems. If it were a high limit that was bad, the display would show the error when the heater goes off. In the absence of an error, one would look to the regulator. A bad regulator would cause the water flow to bypass the exchanger and cause a slow heat. The part is easily replaced and runs about $90. It sort of looks like a car thermostat and also has a spring. It is accessed by removing the large black plug near the plumbing inlet/outlet.

SOURCE: service light on

I just had the same problem resolved, my mastertemp 400 would run up the temp to 82F and then cutoff, the service light flashes and then 50 seconds later the heater would restart and run for 2 minnutesbefore shutting down again and relighting in 50 seconds. Repeating until the temp setting is reached.

I had the pool guy out 3 times until he found a bad thermal regulator valve (kit #77707-0010). Once replaced the heater runs great.

He told me that it's my pool chemestry that is to blame, I had it checked (like I do weekely by me and monthly by the pool supply store) and it perfect??? I'm now questioning what caused the corroson and stop it from coming back?

I hope tis helps.

SOURCE: Creda Night Store Heater model 79154

The dial on the wall with 1-24 on it, with the red pins, is the timeswitch to turn the heater on for night-rate hours (when the electricity is cheapest). Hour 1 is 1am --> Hour 24 is midnight.
Set the red pins to turn the heater on from 11PM (23) to 7am (7). The 'on' symbol is normally a '1', with off being '0'. Otherwise, on can be symbolised with a staright line with circles on it, while off is like a little barrier-arm part up.
As for the knobs on the heater, one is for the amount of heat which goes in (how much the heater 'charges'), and the other is for how much it lets out.
Genrally in winter you set the input (nite-store, second knob) to full (6), but in spring or autumn you may reduce this as required.
The other knob (room temp) is for how much heat comes out of ther heater. If you work during the day, you will want to conserver the stored heat in the heater.
Turn the room temp knob down to about 3 when you leave for work, and wind back up to 6 when you get home. This will stop all the heat leaving the heater during the day (and maybe use less power to recharge at night).
Good luck with the time switch. Check your night-rate hours on your power account.