Is there a manual onlinedating gotto the TP PACO1 A thermostats? This is new building and I have 4 ofthe these and no manual

1) Anode rod is located on top of water heater.
It is 1-1/6" hex head.
It might be under a plastic plug, or you might have to take off metal top of tank.
Sometimes you cannot remove anode rod because it is rusted too badly.
I have used impact wrench sometimes and been unable to budge them.

2) Open following links for anode illustrations and resources:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/video/0,,20047047,00.html

3) Rusty water implies that anode is bad.
But water released by TP valve implies overheating, or bad TP valve.

4) Replace TP valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

5) Check your burner and combustion parts for orange-or-yellow flame and sooting on parts that implies the water heater needs to be cleaned. You do not want overheated combustion chamber to cause ECO event that might require new gas control thermostat.
Gas should burn with clear blue flame.

6) Overheating tank can also imply that gas control valve thermostat is not working correctly and may soon fail. This would be evidenced if water is very hot and new TP valve doesn't stop hot water release.

7) Take a moment and rate answer:
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For a price, expert works with you while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
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If you have overheating, the elements are working fine and are not suspect.
Also electric power and circuit breaker are eliminated.
ECO reset is not tripped, so that points to faulty TP vlave, but water temperature has to reach 180 degrees F for ECO to trip.
Open link to see ECO located on upper thermostat.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Jly-022-thermostat2-175.jpg

Remaining suspects are 1) bad thermostat or 2) faulty TP valve or 3) Stacking or 4) combination of the 3.
Raise TP lever and gently let back down and see if something was lodged in the valve.

1) If you are certain that water feels hotter than normal, then replace both thermostats:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

2) If water seems normal temperature, then replace TP valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

3) If TP releases water after frequent water use, then Stacking could be part of problem:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Stacking.html

Rusted water usually means anode rod depleted and tank is rusting. Change 570241 anode rod every year or so.
Boiling water could mean bad thermostat causing run-away heating so water is released out of TP valve. Replace 994062 thermostat for 4 gallon.
Leaking water at TP valve could mean bad TP valve: replace TP valve with generic valve from hardware store.
Open link for diagram, parts and replacement information
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Bosch-GL_English.pdf

If dual element water heater has some hot water, that says certain things.
-Water heater is getting 240V from breaker.
-Upper element is working
-Neither element is shorted to ground
-Factory insulation and covers are in place and thermostat not exposed to cool air.
-ECO reset is not tripped and there is not overheating event.
-Water pipes and heater are not clogged.

Here are remaining suspects:
1) Leaking faucet or TP valve is leaking hot water continuously. Check for leaks.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) Loose wire/ bad wire between upper and lower sections of water heater: remove covers and check for loose wire and signs of high heat and burning.
Also do full troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

3) Bad lower element
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

4) Sediment build up bottom of tank:
Sediment build-up causes lower part of tank to heat slowly, so upper part of tank can cool, and tank has less hot water.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html

5) Bad upper or lower thermostat: Replace both thermostats for $28.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

To preserve tank and save money long term
http://waterheatertimer.org/Replace-anode-rod.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya expert assistance live.
For a price, expert works with you via e-mail while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

You replaced elements and thermostats on electric water heater.
You have some hot water and that says:
-Upper element is working
-240V circuit is OK and upper thermostat receiving 240 at terminals L1 L3
-Reset is not tripped, and tank is not overheating so elements are not shorted to ground
-Covers and insulation were re-installed and thermostat is not overheating tank from exposure to cool air.

That leaves following suspects:
1) Sediment build-up located in bottom of tank will interfere with lower element
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html

2) Loose wire between upper and lower sections of tank
3) New thermostat is bad or wire connection at thermostat is loose.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-problems-with-water-heater.html

4) Upper thermostat wired incorrectly
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-water-heater-thermostats.html

5) Leaking faucet or TP valve running hot water out of tank, so tank cannot keep up.
Inspect TP outlet and other faucets.

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
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Reliance 606 240Volt water heater.
This water heater is fully repairable by homeowner

You have some hot water so that says upper element is good.
It also says electricity to water heater is good.
Also your reset button is not tripped. water heater is not overheating.
And covers and insulation are installed properly on water heater.
Water pipes are not clogged, and tank is not leaking water on floor.

Here are the suspects:
1) Leaking faucet or TP valve is running hot water continuously. Check for leaks.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) Loose wire/ bad wire: remove covers and check for loose wire and signs of high heat and burning.
Also do full troubleshoot:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-troubleshoot-electric-water-heater.html

3) Bad lower element, possibly due to sediment build up: Test element.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-test-water-heater-element.html
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-clean-sediment-out-of-electric-water-heater.html

4) Bad upper or lower thermostat: Replace both thermostats for $28.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

It sounds like TP valve is releasing water, but you don't describe where water is located.
Run through process-of-elimination check list on following link:
http://waterheatertimer.org/Leaking-water-heater.html

1) If problem is TP valve, event could be caused by 'stacking'
Stacking is where you draw amounts of hot water many times in succession.
Top part of heater is plenty hot because water heater is keeping up with hot water draw.
Incoming cold water enters bottom of tank through dip tube causing thermostat to read cool temperature and activate burner or element. This causes higher than ordinary temperatures at upper part of tank and TP valve reacts by releasing water.

2) TP valve could be going bad.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

3) Improper venting can cause gas water heater to have water on top of tank or dripping down inside tank where it shows on floor after rusting out combustion chamber.

4) Thermostats are old or not reading correct temperature.
Turn down thermostats:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html
Replace gas valve on gas water heater, and flush tank.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Clean-sediment-out-of-water-heater.html
Replace electric water heater thermostats
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-thermostat-on-electric-water-heater.html

5) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixya phone service.
For a price, expert speaks with you over phone while you work on heater or any do-it-yourself project.
Fixya is always less expensive than a service call.

That sounds like the TP valve is leaking.
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-leaking.html

1) Leaking TP valve can be caused by defective TP valve
How to replace TP valve:
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-replace-TP-valve.html

2) TP valve can also be caused by overheated tank.
Turn down thermostat.
Install expansion tank on incoming cold water line.
Electric heater: thermostat or element may be bad and tank needs troubleshooting
Gas heater: thermostat is connected to gas valve and gas valve may need replacement.

3) First step is replace TP valve and see if that solves problem.

4) Add a comment for more free help.
Also take advantage of fixyas phone service.
For a price, fixya expert speaks with you over phone while you work on water heater.

There are two solutions:

1) Replace TP valve with same temperature/pressure as existing TP valve.
Buy the TP valve at hardware store or home center or plumbing supply.
Turn off water heater so water cools.
Hot water inside a tank is explosive ... so open the TP valve and test water temperature.
If TP is on top of tank, you don't need to drain much water before unscrewing
If TP is on side of tank, use the TP valve to drain water -or- use the drain valve
Unscrew TP to remove.
Put teflon tape on new valve threads so it will seal against leak.

2) If the new TP replacement starts doing the same thing, there may be a thermostat problem -or- thermostat is set too high.
If you keep the water temperature set high, you can add expansion tank to incoming cold water line.
Home Depot sells expansion tanks. Plumbing supply carries them,
The tank for residential water heaters is about same diameter as a football and it goes on cold water line.

Expansion tank is supposed to stop over-expansion due to pressure.
The check valve will stop over-expansion from pushing pressure back into the supply line.
The real question is what is causing the pressure.
If your TP valve is bad that could cause problem.
If the thermostat is set very high, and there is frequent short-term use of hot water, that can cause heat to build up inside tank.
Solution:
Lift TP valve and let out pressure to see if there is something lodged in the valve.
Be careful of the scalding water.
Let the TP lever down slowly.
Next step would be replace TP valve.
Turn down thermostat to 120, or set to 130-5 if objective is to kill most bacteria.
Last. You might check that your expansion tank is correct for water heater.