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Anonymous Posted on Jul 30, 2018

STANLEY PRESSURE WASHER STARTS THEN DIES

FRESH GAS SPARK COMPRESSION,I CLEANED THE CARB BUT DIDNT SEE ANY PROBLEM FLYWHEEL KEY IS INTACT VALVE ADJUSTMENT IS GOOD.

5 Related Answers

panilling9

panilling9

  • 284 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 21, 2009

SOURCE: 4.5hp Sears/Tecumseh motor starts and dies in 5 - 10 seconds.

metal or plasic float?

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Anonymous

  • 582 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 17, 2009

SOURCE: Flywheel removal from TB425CS

YOU MAY HAVE TO USE A PULLER FOR THE FLYWHEEL I CAN'T SEE ANYTHING ON THE BREAKDOWN OF THE ENGINE THAT WOULD SHOW ANY THREADED HOLES FOR BOLTS TO REMOVE THE FLYWHEEL

Testimonial: "I think you're right about the puller for the flywheel. Thanks for the input."

Anonymous

  • 2 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 25, 2010

SOURCE: Honda 5.5 HP starts & dies

had the same problem with my Honda engined mower. you can't see it easily, but there is a very fine screen in the outlet of the fuel tank that gets blocked and fuel will not pass thru it fast enough to refill carb. remove tank and pour fuel in another container . Use a flexible plastic tube in the outlet or make a small wire hook to penetrate the screen,or preferably, remove it. confirm that fuel flows freely thru it, remove any debris, and reassemble. Change spark plug, add fresh fuel,and test. best of luck!!!! Ray

hunter19_46m

Curtis Sewell

  • 7482 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 13, 2012

SOURCE: troy bilt 4 stroke trimmer tb575ec won't run at high rpms. it starts, but dies when throttled up. only 2 months old, added fresh gas, checked oil, did not see adjustment screws on carb?

Hi jim gabriel

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Write down on a piece of paper or take a picture of how the linkage attaches to your carburetor for later reference when you go to reinstall your carburetor.
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using a very small shot of starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of chainsaws and weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor or take a pictue for later reference.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil if your using a two cycle chainsaw or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture...too much oil as it can cause hard starting and excessive smoking.
If the chainsaw/trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indention in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me
Bud

hunter19_46m

Curtis Sewell

  • 7482 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 25, 2013

SOURCE: B&S will not start

Hi civichatch

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The compression sounds a tad high which could indicate valve timing ( exhaust opening late or not long enough)
On the ignition side you could have a bad CDI , weak pulser coil or sheared flywheel key.
I believe I would lean toward suspecting the ignition. I had a Honda that gave me fits acting like a lean issue. I was in that carb 25 times if I was in it once. Same thing, idled fine but died on acceleration. It was the CDI. Put a spark tester inline with your spark plug and see if the unit dies due to lack of spark.
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Flywheel removal from TB425CS

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