Approx how many volts will a CDI system send to the ignition coil on a Yamaha generator. Also, what should resistance on primary side of coil be?

Test the coil electrically
A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter
To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one.
Step 2: Test the resistance
The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range.
Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance
Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower

check the magneto output. Check the coil and spark plug wires with a multimeter.

There are three items that are connected together needed to create spark on your 1997 Honda 4-wheeler, regardless of which model it is.
Before we go through a checklist of these three important parts, look for a black wire with a white stripe that runs to the ignition switch and kill button from the CDI box. Disconnect this wire before it gets to the ignition switch and kill button, then check for spark. The most likely cause is a broken kill switch on the handlebar, or shorted ignition switch. Such a condition grounds this wire and kills the spark.
If this test did not restore the spark, continue reading...
Here is what is required to create a spark.

First, the alternator has one coil which generates a high voltage--about 125 Volts AC for the CDI ignitor box.

Second, there is a pulse voltage generated once every revolution of the engine that goes to the CDI box. This pulse causes the CDI to dump its stored energy from the 125 volt line into the primary of the ignition coil.

Third, If the two connections of the wire that runs from the CDI to the Coil are BOTH SHINY clean, the ignition coil will generate a spark.

If any one of these 3 don't happen, the spark will go away. Of these three, item 3 -- one or two tarnished and/or dirty connectors -- is the most likely cause. Just an added resistance of 0.3 Ohms or more in the CDI to Coil connections will cause the ignition to fail. No other wires have to be this clean.

possible ignition coil or control box burned out? In general with an electric start engine, cranking load drops the available voltage to 10 volts or less so the ignition coil primary winding is wound to operate on 9 volts. So while cranking, the coil is fed battery available voltage. when the start button or ignition switch is returned to the run position, the coil is fed through a ballast resister that drops battery voltage, around 12 to 14 volts to 9 volts. if the ballast resister is bypassed and full battery voltage is fed to the coil, it will overheat and burn out.Check the primary coil resistance, it should have a low resistance or continuity. If burned out, it will have no continuity or a very high-to-infinity resistance.

Hey Roland,
I have the same problem. How did you fix this problem? Was it the Ignitor or the Rectifier? Please let me know. Thanks.

okay...these are general to Yamaha igniter systems...
so bike is in neutral...shows neutral, kill switch on...
Test each plug cap with a new spark plug...if one or more getting no spark....
Unhook the pickup coil harness and test the resistance (the P U coils located in left front crankcase cover with stator. If resistance tests out fine, ensure the connector is clean and connect.
Now test that both ignition coil packs primary and secondary resistances are within spec.
Verify the ignition coil packs are getting battery voltage to the primary terminal (often a red/white wire).
Ensure the igniter (the ignition black box) also called TCI is getting battery voltage on its supply.
Ensure all connectors clean to TCI.
The only other issue may be the interlocks are trying to shut down ignition....typically a black/white wire from the igniter goes to sidestand relay, tip over switch....both shut down ignition by grounding the control side of the TCI...could be they are partially grounding allowing minimal ignition..

Check your generator coils with a multimeter for continuity. Check primary and secondary ignition coils for proper resistance. If these are correct, and you have no spark, check ground leads and coil contact surface for rust. If all that is correct then you have a CDI issue. What exactly is the problem, and what have you tried so far?

To check the ignition coil, unplug the wires going to it and check the resistance with an ohm meter. There are two parts of it to check, the primary and secondary circuits. The primary circuit is the low voltage side where the black and green wires from the harness attach. The resistance through this part of the coil should be between 0.16 and 0.19 ohms. Check the secondary side by measuring the resistance between the spark plug lead and the primary side where the green wire was attached. The resistance there should be between 3.69 and 4.51 ohms.
The resistance through the pulse generator, as measured between the two wires that come from it, should be between 468 and 572 ohms.
Generally, the various components of the ignition system are very trouble free. If you're not getting spark to the spark plug, be sure to check all of the bike's wire harness and connectors for corrosion, melted connectors, broken wires, etc.

I've this data from my 1986 engine!

Under the left hand side cover there are 2 2-wire connections. One with a green and a black wire, one with a blue and a yellow wire.
Use an ohmmeter at R x 100 between both wires of a connector to check the pick-up coils: resistance must be between 130 and 180 Ohms.

The values of the ignition coil resistances are:
primary coil : 3-5ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1 )
Secundary coil : 25.000 - 45.000 ohms ( set ohmmeter at R x 1.000 )
For a correct measurement ALL leads must be disconnected ( also the spark plug leads )

The CDI cannot be tested with a simple measurement. Suzuki dealers have a special tool to test CDI boxes.
But checking the pick-up coils and ignition coils good will indicate an defective CDI.

The wires on the CDI:
Blue: PU coil 1 ( cyl 1-4 )
Yellow: PU coil 1
Green: PU coil 2 ( cyl 2-3 )
Blue : PU coil 2
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 1-4
White : switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4
Orange/white : +12v ign coil 2-3
Blue/yellow: switched coil negative side ign coil 1-4 ( and signal to tachometer )
Blue/white : ground

Thus, you must have +12V on both Orange/white leads.