I have DDR30A2GP Danby Premiere. Water isn't draining out the hose. Filter is clean. Hose is ok, no obstructions. The humidity is 77%. Basement temp is 70 degrees. What else to check?

It's probably running continuously.

If so, its either set that way (or for too low humidity) or the unit is undersized for the area / humidity level. Check for sources of humidity that can be controlled otherwise, or add another unit.

Please rate 4 stars if this is helpful. Thanks and good luck!

GENERAL INFO ERROR CODES PROBLEM PARTS SOLUTION E1 NOT ENOUGH WATER INLET VALVE CLEAN OR REPLACE E2 NOT DRAINING DRAIN PUMP KINKED HOSE--ADJUST HOSE TOO HIGH--ADJUST PUMP FAULTY--REPLACE E3 WATER TEMP TOO COOL THERMOSTAT STAT OPEN--REPLACE TIMER CONTACTS OPEN-- REPLACE HEATER OPEN--- REPLACE ABOVE FAULTS CAN ALSO CAUSE TIMER TO STALL(TIMER STOPS TO ALLOW HEATING OF WATER) TIMER WOULD STALL AT THE 2,5,7 AND 10 O'CLOCK POSITION E4 OVERFLOW SWITCH ACTIVATED CHECK FLOAT IS FREE CHECK LEVEL OF D/W SOAP- AMOUNT AND KIND WASHARM STUCK OR SPLIT E5 E6 & E7 TEMP SENSOR THERMOSTAT REPLACE ERROR CODES: DDW497W Problem Solution Error 1 Water supply is turned off Turn water supply on Detached / damaged pipe Replace / readjust pipe Low water pressure Requires min. 0.04Mpa water pressure Defective water fill valve Replace water fill valve Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Heavy water usage elsewhere in home Use unit when water usage is at a minimum Defective electric control Replace electric control Error 2 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Damaged/defective drain pump Repair or replace drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 3 Voltage is too low Minimum voltage of 198 V Damaged/ defective thermostat Replace the thermostat Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Damaged/ defective heating element Replace the heating element Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 4 Sump or filter is obstructed Clear the sump and filter Loose or damaged sump pump/drain pump Repair or replace sump pump/drain pump Drain hose is obstructed or detached Clear out/readjust drain hose/tighten clamps Defective pressure switch Replace pressure switch Loose heater element Tighten heater element mounting nuts Loose spray arm Tighten spray arm Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Defective Microswitch Replace microswitch Float- defective or not in the right position Reajust / replace float Error 5 Damaged/ defective power switch Replace power switch Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 6 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too low Temperature should be above -20? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric control Error 7 NTC thermistor damaged/out of position Replace or readjust the thermistor Temperature is too high Temperature should be below 120? Damaged or defective wiring Repair the wiring Defective electric control Replace the electric contr

You seem to have done most of all the right things, so that means the problem may be the basement. Along with a couple of other things. All are totally solvable.

1. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.

2. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to
clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.

3. The hose is partially clogged or the hose connection on the unit and it interior tubing may be
partially clogged. Turn the unit OFF and unplug it.
Using an appropriately sized, 18" long, plastic Zip Tie, carefully insert the tip of Zip Tie into the hose connection and tubing. Continue to push it in until you reach a bend in the tubing. You will need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past this bend, until it either bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. Then slowly pull the Zip Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will breakup any clogs. As you reach the inserted end of the Zip Tie, be prepared, as some water may follow. Reconnect the hose, plug the unit in and turn the Master ON/OFF Switch to ON. Set the humidity extraction level to 35% or Maximum if you have a manually controlled unit. Allow the unit to run, while you monitor it for any leakage.

NOTE: If you don't have a Zip Tie, you may use something similar ( i.e.a long pipe cleaner), but NO wire coat hangers

If none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity condenser sensor is failing. These things usually occur in units that are 5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it can happen.

I hope this helped you troubleshoot and solve the problem. Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Yes. Either the hose is clogged or the hose connection and it's tubing is clogged. When that happens, water is automatically diverted to the bucket. The hose is easy to check for a blockage. Simply remove it and either blow thru it or look thru it for daylight.

To clear the hose connection and tubing. Use an 18" long appropriately sized Zip Tie. Insert the end of the Zip Tie into the hose connection and carefully work it in. You will reach a bend in the tubing that you need to gingerly work the Zip Tie past. Continue to insert it until the Zip Tie bottoms out or you run out of usable Zip Tie. The slowly pill the Zip Tie back out while rotating (twisting) it. This will dislodge any clogs. As you reach the tip of the Zip Tie, be prepared as some water may follow. Hook the hose back up, plug the unit in and turn it On. Set the humidity extraction level at 35%. Monitor the end of the hose for water flow, after about 15 - 20 minutes. If water doesn't start to flow, turn the unit OFF and repeat the above procedure. Also, remove the air intake filter and clean it if necessary.

Hope this helped to solve the problem and thanks for choosing FixYa.

Barbara, are you running the unit in a continuous mode (i.e Using a hose to drain the unit)? Or is the water draining into the water collection bucket?

If you are not using a hose for continual drainage, the fan will not run constantly. It requires that, for continual operation.

Also, you may have the humidity extraction level set to high. Lower it to 35%. Also, remove and check the air intake filter, as it may need cleaning.

Dehumidifiers that are not Low Temp models have a difficult time operating in basement applications. Because the air temp at floor level is colder than at shoulder level. At temperatures between 40 & 60 degree F, regular dehumidifiers struggle to keep up. Raising it up off the flow on to a sturdy table, counter top, etc that can handle the weight of the unit, plus a full bucket of water can really help.

I hope this was of assistance and thanks for choosing FixYa.

There are 5 basic, but solvable reason for what you described. Please pay particular attention to numbers 1 & 2.

1. The humidity extraction level is set to HIGH. Lower it to 32-35%.

2. Air intake filter is dirty or clogged. Turn unit OFF, & Unplug the
Unit, before removing to inspect & clean it, if necessary. If washed,
allow filter to completely dry before reinstalling. DO NOT operate
the unit without the filter.

3. Obstructed air flow. Maintain a minimum of 12 to 18" of clear air
space around the entire unit.

4. Cooling coils are dirty and need to be cleaned. Use warm water & dish washing liquid to
clean the coils. Rinse and wipe dry. Apply a light coating of WD40 to the coils.

5. Ambient air temperature at floor level is between 40 - 60 degrees.
dehumidifiers do not work well between those temperatures
(Unless, you have a Low Temp Unit). This applies mainly to
where the air temperature at floor level is colder than at shoulder level
in basement applications . Raising the unit up off the floor,
onto a sturdy table, counter top, etc, that can handle the weight
of the unit, plus a full tank of water, will usually resolve this
problem.

If none of the above solves the problem, it may be a case of the compressor needs to be recharged with refrigerant gas or that the humidity condenser sensor has failed. These things usually occur in units that are 5 years old or older. It's rare in a unit younger than that. But, it can happen.

Hope this helps you to troubleshoot & solve the problem.

Hi,

There are many reasons why a dehumidifier will not work or collect water.

Here is a tip that I wrote to help people to figure out what is going wrong with their dehumidifier

Dehumidifier is running but no water is in bucket

heatman101

If the room temperature is close to 60, the coils may be frozen (completely encased in ice). If this is the case, move it where the water can drain off - about 1 gallon which may NOT run into the drain bucket.
I out mine over the floor drain.
Turn off and it will defrost over night.
Only specially made dehumidifiers work below a room temp of 60 degrees (the temp of a basement in winter).
Does it need to be running? A digital humidity sensor from Radio Shack is cheap and may tell you the humidity is OK - only 50% or less.

If the room tempature is close to 60, the coils may be frozen (completely encased in ice). If this is the case, move it where the water can drain off - about 1 gallon which may NOT run into the drain bucket.
I out mine over the floor drain.
Turn off and it will defost over night.
Only specially made dehumidifers work below a room temo of 60 degrees (the temp of a basement in winter).
Does it need to be running? A digital humidity sensot from Radio Shack is cheap and may tell you the humidity is OK - only 50% or less.