Is it possible that it is a faulty led strip??
Those blinks [flashes] are fault indication (Error Codes). From the number of blinks occur at one time switch ON, you can get an idea about the faulty circuit section inside it. This will make repair easy. These are called blinking codes. Make sure about the exact number of blinking of the standby/power LED, by switching On & OFF the set, for at least two times. Count it carefully. If you wish to get some details, check the site linked here. It has details about blinking codes, and fault locating procedure, to many popular brand TVs and other devices.
https://homenol.blogspot.com/
https://electronicshelponline.blogspot.com/
If blinks continue without any pause, or the LED light stationery; the main board is faulty.
Search the site by type in the "brand name" to your device, [Exclude the model number] in the "Search box at the top right of the display window of the Homepage" to get gathered related posts./
SOURCE: Panasonic projuction screen tv.
3 blinks is the error code for the convergence ICs. You need to replace both STK392-110 convergence ICs. You can get replacement ICs at the following link and they provide installation instructions with pictures.
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/
Hi, this is main board failure and you will need to replace this vital board. you power board is fine but, it is unable to send a proper current through the main mother board due to the damage at hand.
SOURCE: TV will not power up. red LED blinking 5 times
I always found the problem to be either a combo of the x-sus printed circuit board and the y-sus printed circuit board. It is also very worth checking out your poer supply circuitry as well. Good Luck.
SOURCE: I have a Samsung 56"
Actually the Samsung model you have was the first model to come out in 2006 that did not have a color wheel. The LED blinking is actually a self diagnostic program of sorts. Depending on which lights are blinking, and how often, the service manual will tell you where you should start checking or replacing parts and assemblies. I do have most of the codes, so can you tell me if the if the LED light is the only one flashing, how long it flashes, and do any other lights flash at all? Thank you.
SOURCE: I got a Sony Bravia
http://www.smpcshop.com/KDL-40WL135-KDL-46WL135-p-8895.html
Above is a link for a service manual.
Hi, well I applaud you for starting in the right place, The power supply, as, if, that isn't right nothing else can be. But you simply cannot do anything without a Service Manual. In this it has everything one needs to repair the set. OK if it is shutting down, after that amount of time, of working and then faulting, then it is most definitely a "Thermal" problem, the way we "Find" problems such as this is "Freeze Spray" you use this on each component that is suspected of being the "Culprit" and you will soon,find that errant component. Now also not every fault is a Capacitor, I see many, many people that think, that Capacitors are always the "Culprit" now while that may be true in a few cases, a faulty Electrolytic Cap, or ordinary, Cap goes faulty, this is only a SYMPTOM, something has damaged those caps causing them to "Fail". One MUST always find the root "Cause", otherwise if you just treat, the SYMPTOM, the "Cause" will just make the "Symptom" come back, in short order, as the prime cause still, hasn't been fixed., Now Capacitors hate AC ripple, or Over Voltage. Thats it. Oh.. and Heat, if these Capacitors, are too close to a Heat Source, then thats a prime cause of failure. Resistors, hardly ever go faulty,and if they do, it is generally obvious. However it doesn't hurt to check values with our Multimeter. Remember though resistors are made, with up to 20% tolerance from stated value, as such, are not too critical, unless in Timing circuits etc. Always check, the Values, of resistors, as with any other component, with the power OFF. Now Diodes especially "Zener Diode", are another thing to check, those and ordinary "Signal Diode" should always be suspect. next we have Transistors and IC's. The Transistors MUST ALL be checked to see if they have a good, "Junction" this is done, with our meter set to "Diode Test" and usually are about 0.6 to 0.7. With IC's you must check, voltage levels, or Logic Levels, going in and out, have a look at the circuit diagram, and it will tell you what they should be. It is a good idea to always measure the Power Supply voltages, see if a "Rail" is Low, that will be because some component has gone somewhat or all short circuit, to Earth, now, if the "Rail" is Higher, suspect an "Open Circuit" component, like a Diode, or Transistor. The voltages expressed in the manual are spot on, ANY variation MUST be investigated. I have been doing all this for over 30 years now, and I do indeed wish, we could have a set of "Symptoms" and be ables to say.. "Oh that;s the so-in-so and replace this" however unfortunately this although does happen, most "Symptoms" can have literally tens, of "Causes" all often "Interlinked" One simply has to do a methodical troubleshooting procedure, and always think, "are my Voltages Correct" as this is how, you Fix the problem, by making them so. Keep up the good work. If that link above doesn't furnish a Service manual, it is imperative you get one, even if you must pay for it. It will pay for itself in about 2 mins.
Gee it seems that you have replaced just about the entire "Guts" of the set, in the industry we call this the "Shot gun" method, however it seldom works in reality. One really needs to isolate the Cause, of the "Fault" and repair that and also any damage done by that. As if one doesn't remove the "Cause"
it will simply fault again when the "New" bit is connected up. One needs to get the unit going section by section, testing and proving the prior section before connecting up to the next, which also must be tested to make sure that what you are going to connect will NOT damage what you are connecting it to.
Also unfortunately, these LED's Blinks, are NOT an error code in actual fact.
What you need to do is use the service manual, and follow through the troubleshooting steps, to isolate and hopefully repair your problem.
Basically it is all about voltages and if they are correct, a Higher voltage than stated usually means a component is Open circuit or a very high resistance, whereas a Lower than stated voltage usually indicates a Short Circuit, or low value resistance component, is "Faulty". These are all in the SM, as are the waveforms that must be checked, it is indeed very difficult to repair electronics these days without specialised equipment and even though I have over 30 years experience i find it difficult, so good luck.
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