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When the power is connected to the cooktop, all the burners go on and none of the controls seem to work. I have to disconnect the power in order to shut the cooktop down.
There is a control board under the glass where you touch to make it come on. some models were recalled. it you contact thermador they should come and take care of it for you
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Based on your question that the right front burner of your Schott Ceran glass cooktop is not working, here are some steps you can try to troubleshoot the issue:
Check the power supply: Make sure that the cooktop is properly connected to a power source and that the circuit breaker or fuse is not tripped. If the circuit breaker is tripped, reset it and try turning on the burner again.
Check the burner control switch: The burner control switch regulates the power to the burner. Check if the switch is loose, damaged, or defective. You can test the switch for continuity with a multimeter to determine if it is functioning properly.
Check the heating element: If the burner control switch is not the problem, the issue may be with the heating element. Check the element for visible damage, such as cracks, burn marks, or discoloration. If you see any damage, the element may need to be replaced.
Check the wiring: Check the wiring connections between the burner control switch and the heating element. If any of the connections are loose or damaged, this may be causing the issue.
Test with a different burner: If you have multiple burners on your cooktop, try testing the right front burner with a different control switch or heating element to determine if the issue is with the burner or another component.
The above are basic means of troubleshooting, the following below will add more to the solution above;
Check the control board: The control board is responsible for sending power to the heating elements. Check the control board for any signs of damage or burning, and test it for continuity using a multimeter.
Check the thermal fuse: The thermal fuse is a safety device that cuts off power to the heating elements if they overheat. Check the thermal fuse with a multimeter to see if it has blown. If it has, you will need to replace it.
Check the switch relay: The switch relay is another component that can cause the burner to not work. Check the switch relay for any signs of damage, and test it with a multimeter to see if it is functioning properly.
Test the voltage supply: Use a multimeter to test the voltage supply to the burner. If there is no voltage, this could indicate a problem with the control board, thermal fuse, or switch relay.
Check for loose connections: Inspect all wiring connections between the control board, switch relay, and heating element. Loose or damaged connections can cause the burner to not work.
Good Afternoon Judy, thanks for your post!
From what you have described the burner on your Frigidaire cooktop will not shut down and continues to run in simmer mode. I would suggest performing a reset on your cooktop and you can do that by disconnecting power from your cooktop for at least ten minutes. If that does not help alleviate your situation you may need to have a burner switch or control panel replaced and that is not a simple DIY job. If any electrical components need to be replaced I would recommend contacting a professional technician for proper repairs to be completed. This will help you avoid any unnecessary part purchases. I hope this information is helpful. -OOS
Good Morning Fern mullen, I appreciate your post!
Based off what you have described your burners are no longer working on your Frigidaire range. This could be an issue with your control panel or the switch. I would recommend performing a reset on your range and you can do that by disconnecting power from the range for at least ten minutes. If that does not help correct your issue I would suggest having a technician out to your home for a proper diagnosis and repair. Best of luck! -Matt
Water has gotten into one of the igniter switches (below the burner knob). Disconnect power, let it dry out for several hours, and things should work again just fine.
Check the power supply to make sure it is getting 220V, the lights etc might still work if only getting 120V but burner won't without full power supply.
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST
Disconnect power before dissassembly. I believe on your model you will have to remove the burner caps and burner heads, then the screws you find under them. (either small phillips, or more likely small torx) You can disconnect spark ignitors then if you like. You may then just have to dry things out, most likely at the burner ignition switches on the burner valve stems.
Check to make sure your burner caps are aligned. I had this problem, and it turned out one of my burner caps was slightly askew. Putting it level fixed the problem.
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