TaskForce 9" bench Drill Press motor turns real slow,and won"t turn with drive belt on.

Rigid bench top drill press comes with an assembled head, but the chuck, handles, and belts need assembly. As the assembly progress, it becomes heavy eventually and may even require two people.
To help you assemble this Rigid bench top drill press, we have attached here step by step guide for you:
Step 1 Your first job is to unpack the drill press. The instructions are given on the top so that you will have no issue unpacking or assembling the tool.
Step 2 After you unpack, take the post and attach it to the base. As the press has too much oil on the post, you should wipe away all the oil and wax it afterward.
Step 3 You should clean the table post as well. So, wipe the oil off the table post using an oil-soaked paper and apply wax to it. If the oil remains, you can use a putty knife and scrape it off. The oil was used for a long boat ride to prevent rust.
Step 4 As the cleaning procedure is done, take the table and install the table in the table arm.
Step 5 The next step is putting drill head on a moving dolly and wheeling it over to the base. Now, tip the base and slide the drill head. Using your legs, lift and stand drill press up. You will not need another person for help if you use your leg doing so.
Step 6 This step requires installing the idler pulley and belts.
Step 7 After pulley and belt, install handles. You can choose the position depending on your habit. Most of the people install it on the right-hand side. But if you are a lefty, you can use left-hand side.
Step 8 Take a thick scrap and put it on the table. Wide open the chuck jaw and clean the mating surface of the shaft and the inner side of the chuck. Make sure to clean it nicely for keeping its stable position. Then, take the handle and press shaft in the chuck very tightly.
Step 9 There must be 60W bulb which is needed to be installed behind the handles in a small recess. If you do not find enough space to fit 60W bulb, you can press a CFL pigtail style up and reinstall the guard.
Step 10 The last step is to square your table to the quill. Combination table can also be taken in this case. It is required to use a bit which is straight and spins true.
More details open the link Efficient Techniques to Assemble Your Rigid Bench Top Drill Press

I'm not familiar with this particular model, but most drill presses have a similar design. The top cover should flip up, exposing the the pulleys and belts. At the back end of the machine where the motor is located, there should be one or two bolts that put tension on the motor, which in turn tightens the belts. When these bolts/nuts are loosened, it should put slack on the belt (s)., allowing the belt to be taken off. There may also be an tensioned idler arm/pulley which puts tension on the belt, such as an intermediate belt. That pulley can be moved to release tension as well. After new belt(s) is installed re-tighten the motor tensioning bolt/nut, allowing for some slack in the belt.

Is the belt slipping

try cleaning the pulleys buy a good belt (gates) install belt and make sure you have good belt tension

replace capasitor

The motor is not necessarily shot. It may be that the motor can't handle the load. Even with the pulley and belt assembled your running at virtually "no load". The problem may be that when you attach the belt it pulls the motor "out of true verticle" which in turn causes the shaft to sieze inside the motor housing. Try making sure the motor is square and aligned exactly verticle and it is secured firmly to the base plate.

Look instead at the motor and drill post bearings. Remove the belt to see if the motor runs correctly with no load. If it still hums and gets hot, check that the motor itself turns freely (when off). If the motor seems to be ok, turn the driven pulley by hand--it should also turn freely. The capacitor is usually a starting assist, not running. To test, wrap a small rope several turns (when pulled must turn in the normal direction) around the small motor pulley and pull smartly while turning the motor on. If it now comes up to speed, the capacitor has lost capacitance. Electronic parts suppliers like Jameco or Mouser have such items.

The belt has either come off the pulley or the belt is slipping. Open th top access hatch and check the belts . If belt is off replace and tighten , if it is just loose tighten the belt.If it is not the belt and the motor is humming but not turning you will need to replace the motor's starting capacitor.Good luck and please don't forget to rate this answer, Thanks

Release the belts and check if you can turn the chuck by habd, if the chuck won;t turn, two things could be wrong, 1) the quill bearings are bad or 2) the shaft that runs down thru the quill could ve rusted causing a restriction, if that's the case, WD 40 should loosen it.

Motor run capacitor. If problem is intermittent, try wiggling wires from motor to capacitor to check for broken wires. Motor might seem to work ok with no load on bench but it has no real power. The power to really spin the motor under load comes from the capacitor