Question about Chime Home
Possible but not probable that you will get spares for the clock
take the clock with you to places like Jaycar as they have a range of battery holders and compartments that may substitute in place
Posted on May 12, 2018
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Well, the white to pink dot is a sign of water in the phone. It is a moisture indicator and the first thing the repair fols look for so they can deny any claims.
They second thing is you can get an external battery charger for the razor. They run about 5 dollars and allow you to charge the battery seperate from the phone.
Razr V3 external battery charger
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
8/20/2009 I have successfully replaced batteries on Norelco 5841xl. Purchased 4AA NiMH rechargable batteries from CVS for $9.50. Only need 2. Removed 2 Philips/straight screws on back cover(1 screw hidden under sideburn trimmer extension button).
Specially, be sure to mark on the shaver which way the batteries are inserted, 'cause once removed there are no marks to tell which way to go. The 2 batteries are "SPOT WELDED" to the metal ribbon contact wires. I used a sharp jack-knife to carefully pry the top edge away from the battery, (Pressing down sharp edge, and prying the ribbon away from the battery) then with the knife reaching under the ribbon battery junction(knife sharp side up) and prying the ribbon away from the battery. I redid this process a few times, wearing away (fatiguing the metal) at the removal of the ribbon. the top of one sort-of broke off above the battery but no matter there was enough left below , that there was enough to solder a wire to if necessary. Anyway "success" 2 batteries removed, no threat to heat sensitive components below. Continuing, I used a sharp new nail-file to harshly scrape some scratches onto the top and bottom of the batteries, so the solder would have fresh rough (un-oxidized) metal to solder to. A 15 or 30 watt soldering iron might work but I used a 120 watt weller soldering gun to solder the ribbons to the batteries (as they were connected in series before). preheat the soldering tool to temp, Press soldering tool to the battery briefly and while there insert "rosin core solder" between junction between the battery and iron, after a small droplet forms, stop inserting and let the heat on the battery increase, seeing the solder wetting to the battery, only then remove heat quickly to prevent deeper heating of the battery. Having presoldered the 4 points on the batterys, insert batteries into holder, you can then solder batteries into place with iron pressing ribbon to battery, and a small touch of solder to the iron-ribbon-battery junction, to help "wetting" the surfaces (thereby helping the iron heat to transfer into the joint) and remove heat and let joint cool without movement, 'til frozen again. (Don't want "Cold-Soldering" joint to occur by movement while freezing) . One special note worth checking and evaluating: there are 2 capacitor cans at the bottom end of the battery holder, almost touching the bottom of the batteries..... BE VERY CAREFUL that the caps don't touch the horizontal wire connecting the 2 batteries together, or the batteries themselves. I have no knowledge of the concequences but don't wanna find out either. My shaver was 8 maybe 10 years old, and went from holding a charge for a week new, to not holding a useable charge for a complete shave. So I charged the newones once fully, it's been 2 weeks and I'm only down 20% to 80% charged, and it seems now on batteries to run just a little bit faster than new. (Like when the cord is in the wall). Avery awesome experience for me cause I thought the $90.00 shaver was a loss.
Just a thought in hindsight, Keep an eye for heat while charging, because I've not plugged it in and left it a long time unattended. The previous batteries were NiCad and these were NiMH and I'm not sure what the charging differences are, but I'm REAL HAPPY, and my keeping an eye for a while until I'm comfortable with it's safety, is a small price to pay for saving $90.00 for $10 batteries.
Only problem might be fire or explosion... Be careful in anything you do, ever... But there you go !!!!! Real Happy Camper...
Posted on Aug 22, 2009
IF I GATHER CORRECTLY , YOUR CLOCK HAS TWO BATTERIES, ONE AT BASE AND ANOTHER ON THE BACK OF THE UNIT. THE ONE ON THE BACK OF THE UNIT IS RESPONSIBLE FOR CLOCK'S FUNCTIONALITY AND I THINK THE BATTERY AT BASE IS FOR THE ROTATING BALLS ( PENDULUM ). SO OPEN UP THE BACK IF YOU HAVE NOT DONE SO, AND REPLACE THE BATTERY. CAREFULLY THOUH AS THERE RE TWO SCREWS ON TOP AND A SNAP AT CENTER BOTTOM WHICH YOU COULD EASILY BREAK IF YOU DO NOT DO IT WITH CARE. OPEN UP THE SCREWS FIRST AND GENTLY USING A SCREW DRIVER PUSH BACK ON THE SNAP HOLE TO FORCE IT UPWARDS AND INWARDS. IF NONE OF THIS MAKES SENSE THEN WE ARE LOOKING AT TWO DIFFERENT CLOCKS.
HOPE THIS HELPS.
Posted on Oct 11, 2010
I have a pendulum wall clock from the president collection. If yours is the same or similar, the following may help:
*Look at the back for a slide switch labled "start" at the top and "set" at the bottom and move it to "set"
*Look for for small push buttons. They represent the hours and minutes. Push each in turn, the number of pushes to represent the time, ie, for 09:45, ignore the first(0), push the second 9 times(9)-push the third 4 times(4)- push the 4th 5 times(5). When done, push the slide switch back to "start".
If yours is the same as mine - a wall hung pendulum clock with Westminster chimes, made around 1988. I would be happy to scan and send a copy of the instructions.
Posted on Nov 03, 2010
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