GE dryer starts but..... stops

The Kenmore model is 110.63932102. Looking a a generic circuit diagram indicates that the centrifigal switch on the motor does two things. (1) it switches the power from the start windings to the run windings and (2)it also closes the circuit to allow the heating elements to heat. It would appear that the motor is only running on the start windings since the release of the start button shuts the unit down. It also is not heating during this time which indicates that the switch in the heating circuit does not close. Questions: (1) could the start button be the problem by not allowing the motor and its relay to operate normally. Is there a way to check the start button? (2) If the motor is disconnected, can the continunity of the start windings and the run windings be check to see if there has been a failure of one of the windings? If both show continunity does that mean the motor is ok? and (3) Is the relay on the motor that switches the windings and closes the heating circuit an intergal part of the motor or can it be replace without replacing the motor? The Kenmore model is 110.63932102. Looking a a generic circuit diagram indicates that the centrifigal switch on the motor does two things. (1) it switches the power from the start windings to the run windings and (2)it also closes the circuit to allow the heating elements to heat. It would appear that the motor is only running on the start windings since the release of the start button shuts the unit down. It also is not heating during this time which indicates that the switch in the heating circuit does not close. Questions: (1) could the start button be the problem by not allowing the motor and its relay to operate normally. Is there a way to check the start button? (2) If the motor is disconnected, can the continunity of the start windings and the run windings be check to see if there has been a failure of one of the windings? If both show continunity does that mean the motor is ok? and (3) Is the relay on the motor that switches the windings and closes the heating circuit an intergal part of the motor or can it be replace without replacing the motor?

When the start button is pushed, the drum turns but there is no heat so no matter how long you hold the start button in, there is not heat in the dryer. Can the start button be checked to see if it is working properly? When the start button is pushed, the drum turns but there is no heat so no matter how long you hold the start button in, there is not heat in the dryer. Can the start button be checked to see if it is working properly?

Mike: I will try your solutions tonight when I get home. Just a comment and a question. Comment: when the start button is pushed the drum turns and there is no heat coming out of the dryer while the start button is held down. You can hold it down for several minutes and still no heat. Drum stops when button released. Does this potentially say that both the motor relay and the heat relay are defective? If I understood you correctly these two relays are combined into one physical body. Is this correct? Please advise. Regards, Bob Mike: I will try your solutions tonight when I get home. Just a comment and a question. Comment: when the start button is pushed the drum turns and there is no heat coming out of the dryer while the start button is held down. You can hold it down for several minutes and still no heat. Drum stops when button released. Does this potentially say that both the motor relay and the heat relay are defective? If I understood you correctly these two relays are combined into one physical body. Is this correct? Please advise. Regards, Bob

Mike, I do not have the tech sheet. A repair manual would be wonderful. Regards, Bob Mike, I do not have the tech sheet. A repair manual would be wonderful. Regards, Bob

Mike, it has been a rough day. A light just came on telling me that I forgot to send you my email address. Sorry about that. My email address is: [email protected]. Thanks for your assistance. Regards Mike, it has been a rough day. A light just came on telling me that I forgot to send you my email address. Sorry about that. My email address is: [email protected]. Thanks for your assistance. Regards

Mike, I received the repair manual. Thanks for the extra effort. Let me tell you what I have done. Before I did anything I double-checked the dryer performance. With the start button pressed, the motor runs, air comes from the vent but the air is cold (no heat). When I released the button the dryer shut down. Now, unplugged the dryer, I opened the console as you instructed and swapped the leads between the motor relay and the heat relay. I then checked the dryer performance again after making the swap and nothing had changed - motor runs, not heat and motor shuts down when start button released. With all of the potential of shorting something out I was concerned about trying to check voltages as you suggested so I did not do this. Does this confirm that the even heat board has failed and should be replaced? The "run" winding appears to be working in the motor. Is it possible that the centrifugal switch in the motor or the "motor" winding could be defective and give you the same results as I am experiencing. It is getting late so I haven't had a chanc to look at the manual but will tomorrow. However, with the limitied information I have given you, what is you best recommendation for resolving the problem and returning my dryer and wife back to normal operation? Regards, Bob Mike, I received the repair manual. Thanks for the extra effort. Let me tell you what I have done. Before I did anything I double-checked the dryer performance. With the start button pressed, the motor runs, air comes from the vent but the air is cold (no heat). When I released the button the dryer shut down. Now, unplugged the dryer, I opened the console as you instructed and swapped the leads between the motor relay and the heat relay. I then checked the dryer performance again after making the swap and nothing had changed - motor runs, not heat and motor shuts down when start button released. With all of the potential of shorting something out I was concerned about trying to check voltages as you suggested so I did not do this. Does this confirm that the even heat board has failed and should be replaced? The "run" winding appears to be working in the motor. Is it possible that the centrifugal switch in the motor or the "motor" winding could be defective and give you the same results as I am experiencing. It is getting late so I haven't had a chanc to look at the manual but will tomorrow. However, with the limitied information I have given you, what is you best recommendation for resolving the problem and returning my dryer and wife back to normal operation? Regards, Bob

Mike, I just ordered the board. Thanks for you help. Are there any electrostatic precautiions that I need to observe in taking the old board off and putting the new one in? Regards, Bob Mike, I just ordered the board. Thanks for you help. Are there any electrostatic precautiions that I need to observe in taking the old board off and putting the new one in? Regards, Bob

Mike, just wanted to give you feedback on my dryer repair. The board was the problem. Put the new board in and it works great. When I got to looking at the old board closely, there appeared to be a burned transistor between R2 and C22. Everything is working great including my wife. Thanks for your expert help. Bob Mike, just wanted to give you feedback on my dryer repair. The board was the problem. Put the new board in and it works great. When I got to looking at the old board closely, there appeared to be a burned transistor between R2 and C22. Everything is working great including my wife. Thanks for your expert help. Bob

If it is winter, the air flow safety switch might be frozen by air entering the exhaust tube from outside. To check, disconnect the exhaust hose and use a heat gun to backfeed hot air into the burner manifold. This should thaw the switch vane if it is hindered by frost or ice/snow entering from the outside or left over from the last drying cycle. Note if the exhaust hose is plastic you have to use low heat on the heat gun to prevent meling the hose. If it is winter, the air flow safety switch might be frozen by air entering the exhaust tube from outside. To check, disconnect the exhaust hose and use a heat gun to backfeed hot air into the burner manifold. This should thaw the switch vane if it is hindered by frost or ice/snow entering from the outside or left over from the last drying cycle. Note if the exhaust hose is plastic you have to use low heat on the heat gun to prevent meling the hose.

Dryer finished a load, bell sounded. Cleaned out dryer and reloaded it. pushed start button and it says its still in drying mode Dryer finished a load, bell sounded. Cleaned out dryer and reloaded it. pushed start button and it says its still in drying mode