After a recent power outage my beverage center will no longer cool. I have verified the following: Compressor is coming on and measured ok. Compressor fan is on. Cooling fins are free of dust Temp sensor is working measured resistance. I hear 3 clicks when I first plug in the cooler. These clicks are not coming from the compressor start relay. They are coming from a different relay that has 2 wires going to it directly connected to the main PCB. There is a brass line the is routed through it. I am assuming this is some sort of pressure valve that allows Freon to flow. Does anyone know the official name of this and where I can find one?
SOURCE: U-Line no longer cooling
This sounds like the thermostat is the problem. I wouldsuggest touching the compressor at the back of the unit to see if it is hot or cold. If it is hot then you have probably have power down to the compressor, if it is cold you could (if capable) bypass the thermostat to see if it kicks in. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Hot Compressor, no Cooling
If you have clamp tester / read the label of the compressor how many amphere register give allowance 5 amphere during testing time if register for example 3 to 5 amphere the label is 3 amphere is good the compressor / but it will register 0.5 or 15 amphere or up the compressor is badly replace.
SOURCE: Magic Chef refrigerator stop cooling
check the fan relay and the compressor to make sure it is still working...if not there is a capasiter you can replace to get it to work again
SOURCE: Cooling fan wont work
The water temp sensor is located near the thermostat housing. This sensor is what tells the ECM to turn the fan on/off. The water temp sending unit is located near the same area. You know you have the correct sensor is because the water temp sensor has a 2 prong plug. The water temp sending unit only has 1 prong.
SOURCE: Maytag refrigerator isn't cooling
Hi ****, Based on the discription you've provided it sounds like either a faulty start relay or the compressor is seized. If you have a multi- meter you can check the compressor to see if the windings are ok. Unplug the fridge. Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor. On the side of the comp. will be the start relay/overload assembly. Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle. With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin. You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms. On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good ! If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit. This will start it if it's not seized also known as a "locked rotor".. You can find them at most brick & mortar appliance parts locations or on-line vendors. The package contains info on how to connect it. If that doesn't yield any results moving forward, let me know we'll go from there. **I suggest you phone Whirlpool customer support first though ( they own Maytag ) as they recently had a massive recall regarding the starting device of many compressor's and you may find your's to be included therefore have it repaired at no cost.** they will know by your model and serial number or if that isn't clear the number on the compressor. Good Luck Thanks for visiting "fixya", please take a second to rate my solution and leave a comment/testimony to it's helpfulness. macmarkus :)
3,889 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×