I have bought 2 new DW090PK builders levels and neither will get the bubble centered can I do anything to fix it?

The best way to level any coach is to use a round bubble level placed on the freezer plate of the fridge(no ice build up). You only have to do this once. Using jacks at all 4 corners, put that bubble in the center. Now get 2 more regular levels and put one on the cabinet over the freezer door. Make sure it shows absolute level. Now do the same 90 degrees to the first one. Put it at the same height so you can see both at once.Again mount it so it shows absolute level. Now the next time you want to level the coach, you only have to observe those 2 levels.

The center cap on these grabs onto the lug nuts. If you change anything it should be those. You could also do something to give them a tighter fit which is a ghetto fix but lining the inside of the center cap holes with paper or something.

Fix the instrument to a solid tripod. Level the vial. Turn the instrument 180 degrees. If it is out of level. Adjust half of the bubble's error with the foot screws, and the other half with the 3 adjustment screws around the vial itself. Continue to go back and forth 180 degrees until the two sides match.
It will take some time to get the hang of. But is not hard to accomplish.

If you are seeing air bubbles, then the cooling system still has air pockets in it. Loosen the overflow cap and leave it that way for a few days while you drive.Keep the heater turned on at the max heat level. Roll a window down if necessary. Check and top up the overflow bucket daily and top up as necessary. The bubbles should disappear after a few days, then you can tighten the cap. This should also solve your no heat problem. Once the bubbles are gone you can tighten the cap.

If the problem doesn't fix itself in a week, you should have the car looked at for a possible bad head gasket, which would force air into the cooling system. Hope this helps.

I assume you are talking about a bubble level. If so, you should be able to remove the cover over the bubble and find adjusting screws used to calibrate the level. Make sure the bottom surface is free of nicks and rust and is not twisted or bowed. To test for bow, after you have removed any nicks or rust, set the level on a smooth flat surface. Try to " spin " the level gently from one end. If it rotates about the center of the level it is bowed with the center high. If the center is high enough to rock the level you will never get it adjusted until you correct that condition. If it rotates about the end of the level it is bowed with the center low. If your surface is reasonably flat you can rub the level and look for shiney spots on the bottom. If it worn badly have the bottom resurfaced. If it is reasonably flat on the bottom, find a smooth, flat surface that you think is reasonable level. Set the level on the surface and mark its position. Take note of the bubble position, even if it all the way to one side. Reverse the level position 180 degrees and note the position of the bubble again. Make an adjustment to move the bubble half of the difference between the two readings and repeat the notations of the bubble and reverse position bubble. Continue until you obtain the same bubble reading in each position. If you don't get a final reading that is on the scale of the level, find a surface that is more level and try again. As long as the surface is level within the range of the level scale you should be able to adjust it until you get the same reading in each position. (If the surface is not level within the range of the level scale you can't complete the calabration.) The final reading should then be the amount the surface is out of level.

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Usually over a period of use the washer tends to get out of balance, and then make more noise when it get to the spin cycle. I would suggest leveling the washer and then trying it out. The best way to fix this issue is by getting yourself a water level, u can get it in any hardware store. I personally would recommend a small circular water level for this job. Place the water level on top of the washer; make sure it is in the center. Take a look at the level and see where the bubble is in the water level? Accordingly you have to lower or raise either 4 corners of the washer to bring the bubble in the water level to the center. Now you have to be very gentle and small increments when rising or lower the corners of the washer, it does not take too much to move the bubble in the center.

If the problem continues then you have to open the top cover and check inside. 9 out of 10 the washer needs to be leveled.

Usually over a period of use the washer tends to get out of balance, and then make more noise when it get to the spin cycle. I would suggest leveling the washer and then trying it out. The best way to fix this issue is by getting yourself a water level, u can get it in any hardware store. I personally would recommend a small circular water level for this job. Place the water level on top of the washer; make sure it is in the center. Take a look at the level and see where the bubble is in the water level? Accordingly you have to lower or raise either 4 corners of the washer to bring the bubble in the water level to the center. Now you have to be very gentle and small increments when rising or lower the corners of the washer, it does not take too much to move the bubble in the center.

If the problem continues then you have to open the top cover in your case since its a top load the back cover and check inside if any of the weights are out of place. 9 out of 10 the washer needs to be leveled.

I just assisted a friend "re-calibrate" his D.W. L6-20 Level Transit. Follow the following steps.
1. Set up the tripod & transit in the garage. Get the platform with the protractor, close to level.
2. Position the telescope at "0". The telescope should be over 2 of the adjusting screws.
3. Adjust the screws to get the top bubble close to level. Adjust with a screwdriver the spring loaded screw to get the bubble closer to center.
4. Rotate the scope 180 degrees. Note the difference in the bubble position. Split the difference from the first bubble location by adjusting the same top screw.
5. Rotate back to 0. Adjust the same top screw to split the difference in bubble position.
6. Rotate back to 180 degrees. The bubble should be off by the same amount. Adjust the 2 bottom screw to place the level in the center.
7. Rotate back to 0. The bubble should not move.
8. Rotate to 90 degrees and adjust the 2 bottom screws to place the bubble in the center.
9. Rotate to 270 degrees. The bubble should be centered.
10. From this point on, all you need to do is place the level on the tripod and position it over your reference point with a plumb bob. Adjust the bottom 2 screws at 0 and again at 90. The level is set to use.

There are 2 allen screws on the fish eye bubble that can be adjusted to correct that problem.

First level the instrument;

Then turn 180 degrees

Adjust the vial until the bubble is half way from where it is back towards the inner circle.

Relevel the level using the foot screws

Then turn 180 degrees again (back to where you started)

It should be mostly fixed, however if it is not just repeat the steps above; it gets exponentially better everytime until you can no longer detect the error.