Do the valve guides on a kohler head flush with head or protrude 3/8 it 1/2 inch.

you will need 3 special tools for this job . remove the head and valves . One tool will be turned so that it fits in the guide and is slightly smaller than the guide outer diameter. The other tool will go around the guide and rest on the valve spring seat. This allows the guide to be pressed out without stressing the head . The third tool will fit in the guide and will be recessed so that it slip down over the guide the required distance so that when the guide is pressed in the outer edge will hit on the valve spring seat and position the guide in the correct distance into the head. The tool that was used to go around the guide to press out will be used in the head chamber to support the head during the pressing in process.. I would rather take the head and the new guides to an engine re-conditioner shop and have the job done in 15 minutes so that I could then get then to seat the valves in the head properly

The flapper at the bottom of the tank is leaking and needs replacement.

Hello, W/D here.

With the water off, drain the tank (lift the flapper). Look inside where the flapper seats. If the (usually black) gasket is rippled, this may be the cause of your trouble. You can remove the rippled portion of the gasket with a razor knife, just be very careful not to damage the flapper seat. Removing the protruding material will allow the flapper to fully seat without damaging the gasket integrity.
Best regards,
--W/D--

The top of the pipe above the flush valve is threaded if you unscrew this you will be able to remove the flush valve and replace the gasket. I am assuming we are talking about the same here is a link that has all the parts:

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/kohlertoiletparts-santarosa.html

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. These torques are from the Kohler Service manual for the
CV11-16,
CV460-465,
CV490-495
engine.

There are 5 bolts.... as you look at the bolts there should be 3 on the left side

Bolt 1 is the center (offset bolt)
Bolt 2 is upper right
Bolt 3 bottom left
Bolt 4 upper left
Bolt 5 lower right.

Torque them in the sequence above... to 15 Ft lbs. or 180 inch lbs
reset your torque wrench and then torque them to 30 Ft lbs or 360 inch lbs.

Rocker arms center nuts (called mounting screws) are first torqued to 55 inch lbs then to 100 inch lbs.

Then to set the valve lash you back off the set screw lock nut torque and set the valve lash to .003 - .005 final set screw lock nut torque is 65 inch lbs. Engine must be at TDC i.e piston all the way to the top to make the correct adjustments.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly

First things first, remove the fill valve, and the flush handle mechanism. This will give you plenty of room to work with the flush valve. Before installing flush valve lubricate tabs with plumbers grease. Now put on a pair of work gloves, pushed down very hard and turn the tabs should slide easy because of the grease. Remember do not alter the gasket, the gasket needs to be compressed to do its job. I know removing the fill valve and the flush handle seems like a pain, but there is no way to get your hands in the proper position to install the flush valve assembly.

Which style of flush valve do you have? If it is the dual-flush option (solids/liquids) I do not know how to adjust those. If you have a traditional style, then the flapper or ball is closing too soon. You need to adjust the guide arm (flush ball) higher or shorten the chain between the flapper and the handle. Adjust this carefully or you will have it fail to seat and the toilet will constantly run.

I hope this helps.

Cindy Wells
(who needed to replace the fill valve and the flapper at her home earlier this week)

That is a tricky one. Tighten the tabs, twist into place, then tighten a bit more. They are a pain in the a$$, but with patience you will get it done. Good luck

I only install Kohler commodes and have never had a problem with clogging. All of Kohler commodes have a 3.5 inch flush valve, just pick the style you want.

There are two common issues with the 2.2... Both relate to valve guides. If you're confident that the sensors and controls are functioning well. Knock sensor? it doesn't hurt to pull it clean its mounting surfaces and bolt before reinstalling it if you're certain that it's good - you may be retarding timing significantly if there's an errant signal there. This would be noticeable loss of power, but not "cut-outs" as in your presentation.

You may be looking at a hanging exhaust valve. The valves sometimes will 'hang' and not close as anticipated leaving you with a vicious stumble (a 4-cyl running on 3-cyl) two "causes", if you will.. The valves may just hang in the guide (sticky & tight from build-up) or the guide itself may be sliding in the head (unfortunately, a few of the 2.2's of this period do have this issue).

If you're interested in the diagnosis, you can drop the exhaust manifold at the head you can look at & compare how far the exhaust guides are protruding from the head - all of the guides should "sitck out" from above the exhaust valve the same amount -- if you have a loose guide they tend to be "out" a bit further -- The thinking on this for your symptom is that the guide will push out with the valve opening and NOT return far enough to allow the exhaust valve to fully close - the result is a loss of compression at various times/conditions that is hard to track down. The "fix" would be to R&R the offending head to press a new over-sized guide.

The other sticky valve issue is also not too uncommon, the diagnosis is less straight forward - in that you'd need to watch vacuum, power, and DTC data at the time that the this power issue occurs. Typically, I'd recommend going with a strong and safe engine-oil flush and some sort of strong induction/injection cleaning to try to loosen and remove any build-ups on the valves. Many people with the 2.2 have switched into Synthetic engine oils for this reason... Some discussioin have included a few of the "snake-oil" additives for use after the flush (the very thin "metal penetrating" kind of snake-oils get good comments in a lot of the discussions) - It's your vehicle, I find the flush and regular good oil changes can clear-up the 2.2's sticky valve issues without wondering what I've put into my crankcase.


- best of luck