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Gladys Mckay Posted on Feb 03, 2018
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On my CE-5000PRW what is the correct setting for A stitch for sewing a hem for stretch fabric?

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R.A. Ellis

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  • Sewing Machines Master 12,731 Answers
  • Posted on Feb 04, 2018
R.A. Ellis
Sewing Machines Master
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5 Related Answers

bargainbox

Hassy

  • 1388 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 25, 2008

SOURCE: My Janome my excel 23x

Ensure that all is clean and free of lint jams....now for tension troubleshooting .......

This solution is for tension problems...if you cannot form any sort of stitch, the issue is quite different, so please let me know if you need a different problem solved.....

It is quite long, but just work through each section in order.
The "knotting up" can reveal a lot. If you have loose threads on one side or the other, the tension on the opposite side will be the culprit.

QUICK SUMMARY FIRST:
Ensure sharp new needle,
Thread guides and Bobbin are Clean & Clear of lint
Set Top Tension to 4 ....then....
Balance Bobbin to suit.

TOP THREAD TENSION:
If the looping threads are on the underside as you sew, it is the top tension. Top tension ought to be between 4 & 6 (this variation to allow for the different weights of fabric in your
projects).

IS YOUR NEEDLE SHARP ?
If you are using a needle that has seen quite a deal of work, or you suspect it may be blunt, change it for a new one !

TOP TENSION & GUIDES:
Make sure that when you thread the machine the presser foot is up so the thread goes between the discs and not to one side, top tension between 4 and 6, and that you have threaded through all the guides, including the last one, usually on the needle arm, just above the needle clamp.

It may be there is lint trapped between the discs, this will keep them slightly apart and reduce the actual tension, sometimes dramatically.

If tensions appear correct, and the thread is definitely in the channel between the discs, but still too loose and looping, try raising presser foot and remove your thread.

Now, with a 2" (50mm) wide strip piece of fabric 8 - 10" (20 - 25cm) moistened with methylated or denatured spirit, gently insert the fabric strip and clean between the discs with
a see saw / to and fro action.

In the worst cases, gentle use of a needle to pick & remove the jam may be necessary, but be very gentle and make sure the tension is set at Zero and the presser foot is raised, (to
disengage tension plates).... do not gouge or score the plates, they need a polished surface to work correctly.

BOBBIN TENSION:
Far less common, but if the loose threads are on the top, it is bobbin tension that is loose, it too may have lint in the spring and be giving a "false" tension.

I would not recommend fiddling with bobbin tension without good reason, it may end up with missing small screws and spring pieces, however, you can take the needle plate off to clean
the hook race area (where bobbin case sits)

...this is just good housekeeping, my wife does this every time she replaces the bobbin....

just take it out and clean the bobbin case and the fixed metal hook race with a small brush to remove lint. If there is a significant amount of lint, use a vacuum and small brush to get the worst.

Then wipe all this area with a cloth or cotton bud (Q tip) moistened (not soaked) with methylated spirit, especially if there appears to be fine dirty deposits....oil and lint combine to conspire against you.

If it seems likely that you ......really ....do .....actually .....need .....to adjust the bobbin case, first check there is no lint trapped in the metal spring where the thread is tensioned.

TOP LOADER:
Drop-in Bobbin case will look similar to this image with the tension screw in the middle of the metalwork....

4c76dc1.jpg ...the other screw at one end is holding it all together, so beware....it is not a tragedy to undo the whole lot and clean it, but very gingerly and lay the bits out in sequence and orientation, or you risk tearing your hair out !

FRONT LOADER:
....this is a bobbin case from a front loading machine and works in a very similar fashion to the top loader with drop in bobbin, again, if you dismantle it, take care so you can put it all
back properly.
165ca5c.jpg FINISHING UP
GETTING THE BALANCE RIGHT:
When you are certain there's no trapped lint in top tension or bobbin, set the top tension to 4 and the bobbin tension to a point where you just begin to feel resistance.

Try using good quality thread of contrasting colours so you can more easily spot the changes.

Set your zigzag to one width less than maximum (eg. 5 of 6 ...or... 4 of 5 etc) and sew a sample for a few inches and check the result.... adjust the bobbin tension screw very little at
a time, perhaps 1/16 of a turn.

You may find you are playing with this balance for some little while and if you are putting the needleplate on and off each time begin to think it cannot be correct to do this.....BUT....it is,
and eventually, you do get a "feel" for the correct tension and then it happens quite quickly.....as a user you won't be doing it very often unless there is lint built up (or are there small hands at work around the house !?!?!)

OTHER ISSUES:
If you live near the ocean as we do, salt air can play havoc with metalwork inside and out, so to help minimise this, keep a few small packets of dessicant (silica gel) in your machine
case....no case ? then make some sort of cover !

Same applies in any damp or humid environment, keep your machine dry and dust free.

Budget for a proper full service every couple of years (more often if heavily used) and if you don't use your machine for a few years, be aware that old oil will dry out and combining with
dust and form a "clag" like glue (another reason for some sort of cover, even a teatowel !)

FINALLY, A WORD ON THREAD:
If it is worth spending the time, energy and money on making something that you would like to give lasting enjoyment......use quality thread, .......it may seem to cost a little more at the
time, but the results, ease of use and added longevity will be worth the extra, and as a bonus, your tension troubles may be fewer and further between, because there is a more consistent diameter with good thread, and less compensating to be done by your tension plates and less thread breaks !

If you want any more help with this, just post back here, or, drop a line through the "Contact Us" page at www.bargainbox.com.au

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Anonymous

  • 37 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 16, 2009

SOURCE: Sewing hems on pants without stitch showing

you want to use a blind stitch. Refer to your manual and it should give you details on how to set the machine for that stitch.

ken dourof

  • 980 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 01, 2009

SOURCE: I am working of stretch knit fabric and my

You must use an anti static needle or stretch stitch needle.

Anonymous

  • 16 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 02, 2009

SOURCE: How do I do a stretch stitch?

The bes way to hem a t-shirt on a household machine is to use a double needle, straight stitch. You will see two straight stitches on top and zig zag on the back. Just make sure the zig zag catched the top of the hem.

ken dourof

  • 980 Answers
  • Posted on Jul 14, 2010

SOURCE: MC4400 skips on the zig zag stitch when sewing

You must buse an anti static needle otherwise yoiu will miss stitches.

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Hem knit hems

Use a ball-point needle and a stretch or zig-zag stitch that will allow the fabric to stretch without popping the stitching.
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Trouble sewing lycra fabric using a zig zag stitch

You have the machine set for blind hem stitching. Change the stitch selector to stretch stitch, which is a single, in line stitching zig zag stitch.

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I need to know how to do the blind stitch hem

here is a link to great info on sewing.about.com which explains this technique with images, http://sewing.about.com/od/techniques/ss/machineblindsti.htm

In brief, you need to fold the fabric to be hemmed into a Z shape with the wrong side hem edge at the bottom of the Z.

The Blind stitch is either three straight stitches then a wide zig zag which swings to the left and catches a little bit of the folded edge, or three small zig zags, then one wide zig zag to the left to catch one stitch into the folded edge. The zig zag style has a little more stretch in it so works good on jerseys and knits.
tally_girl_0.gif You need to use the blind hemming foot which helps you to line up the folded edge and keep it at a constant distance from the needle. It will look like this.
tally_girl_53.jpg Turn the little silver screw to move the white plastic guide left or right until you've got just a smidgen of fabric being stitched by the left wide stitch. Always do a practice sample first to get the stitching and guide set right. On most machines you can vary the width of the big zig by adjusting the stitch width dial a little.

You need to adjust the blind hemming foot guide so that the needle is just catching a tiny amount of your folded fabric because this is the stitch which shows on the right side of the fabric when you unfold the Z. So forget trying to hem satin or expensive fabrics this way, a hand sewn stitch will give a much better finish.

Blind hemming works best on a hem which is continuously straight on the same grain line, its not great for a curved hem. So if you've got a tiered skirt or the frill on a bed valance, it is fine as the fabric edge to be hemmed will be a continuous straight length. You can use it on a slightly curved hem for jerseys as the fabric has more give, and patterns will help to disguise the stitching too.

I hope that this helps you to sew your blind hem, 4 thumbs up if so.
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I've got an Elna 634 overlocker, and want to turn

Just trim the fabric to the desired hem length plus one inch, then overlock around this raw edge with thread close colour match to the fabric.

You then have the choice of either stitching around with a stretch stitch on your sewing machine, or hand sewing.

Being lycra shouldn't change how you hem them unless the trouser leg is extremely close fitting and the hem seam is going to be under tension.

My first choice would be using a twin needle in straight stitch from top side but this finish can pop/break if the hem is under tension. But perfect for most knit hems.

If you hand sew then you can turn up hem allowance and put a length of fusible hemming web inside the hem allowance and press it to hold. Then do a back stitch hand sew around to hold hem in place.

If you sew with the regular sewing machine, then use either the stretch stitch or a very small zig zag, and a ball point or stretch needle.

On ready to wear you would see a coverstitch hem but your overlocker doens't have this stitch.
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The sewing machine model is CE 5000PRW. The uppe...

It sounds as though the problem is with the tension in the bobbin. Check to make sure the thread is pulled through the tensioner on the bobbin case, if it is check and adjust the tension on the case.
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Skip stitch problem in a flat lock machine

If it seems to sew other fabrics correctly, then you need a different needle for that fabric. It is called a "Stretch Needle" Get a package of Schmetz size 75/11 705HS and that should take care of it.
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How to use a blind hem stitch foot on the White overlock 2000

The blind hem stitch foot is actually just a guide to keep the folded edge of the fabric away from the cutters, and close enough to the needle, to catch a snippit of fabric to actually hem the item you are feeding thru the machine.
The trick is in the folding, and this vid clip is a good guide for the folding technique. Keep in mind that the 'lip' of fabric she is talking about will be overlocked, and your hem will have alot more 'give', providing a stretch that would be helpful for a stretch fabric.
http://www.ehow.com/video_4407404_machine-sew-blind-hem.html
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Hemming stretch fabrics

You can use a twin needle if you want the look of top stitching (like t-shirt).

For the blind hem, you need to baste the hem and then the fold so they do not shift as the machine stitches the hem.

I like to test each of these techniques by making a sample with the same fabric and adjusting length when using the twin needle or width and length when doing the blind hem.

Twin needle does limit the stitching to a straight stitch or a very, very narrow zig-zag - this has to be hand walked to be sure neither swing hits the presser foot or needle plate before stitching.
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How do I overlock stretch fabrics so the stitches won't break when the fabric stretches?

I suggest also setting the stitch length to about 2 (very close together). When the stitch is shorter, it seems to be able to give a little more. I also use woolly nylon, but I still had the problem (especially when hemming). This is how I solved my problem....
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