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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: leaky float valve
Teresa, the water fill is usually a timed fill and the float assy. is a safety device to cut power to the fill valve in the event the dishwasher keeps filling. ( In most models). Sounds like your initial fill is just above the float lever actuator and dripping. Check the level of the dishwasher to make sure that the water is not higher toward the front. Catriver..post back.
Posted on Feb 11, 2007
SOURCE: new gas valve, new gas smell
CG, unfortunately you replaced the wrong part. The problem with your oven is the igniter. The igniter is wired in
series with a safety valve. The safety valve monitors the amount of
electrical current flowing through the igniter when you ask it to
"bake". When the igniter gets "weak" it won't allow current to flow
through it properly, this will keep the oven from heating. It will also cause your symptoms as well...
Here's the scenario; Say your safety valve is "looking" for 2.5 amps of electricity flowing through it before it'll open up and allow gas to the manifold. Your igniter is designed to allow 2.8-3.2 amps to flow in good operating condition, but your igniter has become "weak"... it's now allowing 2.48-2.51 amps. The safety valve is sensing this and opening and closing rapidly, allowing gas to flow through it (fluttering). BUT! the igniter is not hot enough to ignite the gas and/or there is not enough gas to ignite do to the fluttering effect of the valve. Sometimes it'll light sometimes it won't.
Your igniter is the cause and needs to be replaced.
Before you begin the repair, you should have the new part on hand. The part number is WB2X9154 and can be purchased at your local appliance parts retailer for about $50.00. Here's one online for $65.00.
First, UNPLUG YOUR OVEN!
To replace it... Remove the racks and lower panel (oven floor). This will expose the burner manifold where the igniter is mounted. (It's the round thing on the manifold near the back... it has 2 wires going into it.) You'll need a 1/4" socket or nut driver to remove it.
(*TIP---> before removing the screws from the igniter, put a few drops of liquid dish soap on the threads to lubricate them. If you do this, you will not strip the threads of the screws and it will ease their removal.)
The new igniter kit will have two ceramic wire nuts in it. Cut the two wires off of the old igniter and strip them back about 3/8". Then connect the wires of your new one to the wires in the oven using the ceramic wire nuts provided. Then mount the new igniter and rebuild the oven.
(*TIP---> The new igniter is very fragile! [that's why it came wrapped tightly in bubble wrap] Handle it gently!)
There ya go! Total job time? ~45 minutes.
Posted on Oct 11, 2007
This is most often due to the ignitor bar aging. With time it draws less current and does not hold the regulator valve open all the way. You can confirm that the regulator is OK if the broiler works. Replacement for nearly all of these ovens is a universal part, about $35 at appliance parts stores, takes 5-15 minutes to change (depending on whether you need to pull the oven out to get to the connector).
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
There is no real way to calibrate the thermostat. Most ovens have the same problem. By lowering the setting slightly will help get a closer temperature. Sometimes similar thermostats are substituted and may not be exactly the same as the original that came with your oven. Hope my trying to answer your question was helpful, Thanks, Sea breeze
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
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