Brake pads tightening up

Front Brake Caliper: All But FLSTS/FXSTS

Remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap to be able to check the fluid level as the caliper pistons are pushed back into the caliper because the fluid level may rise more than the 1/8 in. (3.2 mm) from the top level and you may have to remove some excess fluid if it does so. THEN loosen but do not remove both pad pins with a 12 point one quarter inch socket. THEN remove both metric caliper mounting bolts and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc and pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons into their bores. THEN once the pistons have been retracted, remove the pad pins and the brake pads.

Although the front and rear brake calipers except FXSTD models, use the same exact brake pad set the FXSTD does not and the FXSTD rear pads have a vertical slot cut into the pads. Be sure NOT to substitute front and/or rear brake pads for the other on these bikes. On the right side of the vehicle the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper.

THEN install new pads into the caliper noting that the curved portion of the pad faces to the rear of the bike, and loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click from them. THEN re-attach the caliper to front fork, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long caliper mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork le, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the top mounting bolt also to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm) and final tighten the two pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm).

THEN and whenever new pads are installed, before moving the bike pump the brakes until brake fluid pushes the caliper pistons and the pads out and verify that the pads are against the brake disc and then rotate the wheel to ensure there is not any excessive drag between the pads and the disc, check for proper fluid level in the reservoir and if necessary top it up with DOT 5 Silicone base brake fluid only, install the reservoir cover and tighten its screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm).

THEN and whenever any work has been done on brakes always test the brakes at low speed before operating on a roadway or at higher speeds. THEN test brake system light and if during the road test the brakes feel spongy at all bleed the system and after obtaining a hard lever or pedal road test the bike again.

For 2002 DYNA to replace front brake pads FIRST remove the front master cylinder reservoir cap because as the pistons are pushed back into the caliper the fluid level may rise and you will need to see this and may have to remove some excess fluid, the3n loosen but do not remove both (12 pt/0.25 in.) pad pins, remove both 10 mm caliper mounting bolts, detach and remove the caliper from the front forks and brake disc, pry the pads back to force all four caliper pistons fully into their bores, with the pistons retracted, remove the pad pins and brake pads. The front left, front right (if present as not present on all motorcycles) and the rear brake calipers use the same exact brake pad set. On the right side of the vehicle, the pad with the two tabs installs on the inboard side of the caliper and on the left side the pad with the two tabs installs on the outboard side of the caliper. Install new brakepads into caliper with the curved portion of the pad facing the rear of the motorcycle, loosely install the pad pins until you hear an audible click, attach the caliper to the front fork, on models with dual front calipers check the alignment of the brake discs to the calipers. Loosen the axle pinch bolt nuts, tighten the axle nut to the proper torque, insert a 7/16 in. drill bit through the hole in the axle as far as it will go so that the contact point will have the edge of the drill bit touching the edge of the fork leg, place the caliper over the brake disc with the bleeder valve facing upwards, loosely install the long 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the top hole on the fork leg, install the short 12 pt/10 mm mounting bolt into the bottom hole on the fork leg, tighten the bottom mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten the top mounting bolt to 28-38 ft-lbs (38.51.5 Nm), final tighten both pad pins to 180-200 in-lbs (20.3-22.6 Nm)., on models with dual front calipers, tighten the pinch bolt nuts while holding the slider against the 7/16 drill bit if necessary, remove the drill bit, pump the brake hand lever to move the pistons out until they contact both brake pads, verify the piston location against the pads and if the front wheel is off the ground, rotate it to check for excessive brake pad drag, check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder and fill it to the proper level if necessary using D.O.T. 5 SILICONE BRAKE FLUID, install the master cylinder reservoir cap and tighten its cap screws to 6-8 in-lbs (0.7-0.9 Nm), turn ignition switch ON pump the brake hand lever to verify operation of the brake lamp, test the brakes, test ride the motorcycle and if the brakes feel soft or spongy, bleed the system until you get a firm/hard brake lever and avoid making hard stops for the first 100 miles (160 km) to allow the new brake pads to become conditioned to the brake disc(s).

At the brake handle end of the cable, on the handle bars, ther may be an adjuster that thread into the brake handle from the end of the black portion of the cable. Thread it all the way in and then turn it 2 full turn back out.
Break the nut loose that the brake cable wire goes through.
Inspect that you do in fact have usable brake pad material on the pads.
Squeeze the caliper by lifting the lever towards the black part of the cablewhile pulling on the cable to keep it tight and tighten nut.

A TriGlide's rear brakes are quite different from a two-wheeled Ultra, which seems to be what everyone has been talking about. In order to change the pads:
While the bike is on the ground, break the lug nuts loose on both sides. Release the parking brake. Then lift the bike so that the rear tires are far enough off the ground that you can take a rear tire off and get it out from under the fender.
Start with the left rear tire, as it is the furthest away from the master cylinder. With the tire out of the way, you can see the caliper. You'll see a lever on the caliper for the parking brake on the inboard side of the caliper. There is n Ny-Lock type nut on the lever shaft. Remove the nut and lever, and back the bolt out. The bolt is what applies pressure to the caliper piston when you set the parking brake, and if it isn't backed out enough, it will prevent you from pushing the piston sufficiently to put the new pads in.
There are two bolts in the caliper that capture the pads. Remove the bolts and pads. You can use one of the pads and a C-clamp to now push the piston in. Or, you may be able to push the piston in by hand.
While you have the caliper off, there is a bushing on the top and bottom that allows the caliper to self-center as the pads wear. They should move in and out of the caliper housing with a little resistance. It's a good idea to check them, and take them out and clean and lubricate them with a thin coat of anti-sieze and reinstall. If they have a lot of corrosion on them, you may want to replace.
It's also recommended that you bleed the brakes, as the brake fluid has a tendency to absorb moisture over time. As the fluid gets hot, the water will cause bubbles to form, and you'll loose stopping power. (Don't try to bleed the brakes until the pads and caliper have been reinstalled and bolted in over the rotor)
Install the new pads, and reinstall the caliper. The pad kit you bought from H-D should have new bolts to put in the caliper for the parking brake, so replace the bolt, running it in far enough so you feel it contacting the piston. Put the lever back on so that it is resting against the stop on the caliper in the fully released position, and put a new Ny-Lock nut on that should have come in the kit.
Now bleed the brake line. Keep bleeding until clear fluid flows, being sure you don't introduce air into the line.
When everything has been tightened to the proper torque, put the tire and lug nuts back on. Repeat for the right side.
Once you've got everything back together, back off the adjustment on the parking brake lever, and then set the brake. If the brakes don't hold when you push the bike, release the lever and tighten the adjustment. Repeat until the brakes hold the bike. Make sure you tighten the set screw the holds the lever adjustment in position.
You should then be good to go. Be sure to wash down any brake fluid that may have dripped, as it will ruin paint finishes.

Hi chermy637

You need to unscrew and loosen the brake pads with an Allen Key until you have enough slack in the cables to reach tboth he pads and brake levers easily. Clutch one brake lever (as you do when braking) to maximum, hook the grommet at the end of the cable into the hole slightly larger than the grommet, then slide it back along the groove leading from the hole so the cable is anchored in the pivot end of the lever, carefully threading it through to the static rest that the lever rests against when released.

Extend the cable, now anchored at the brake lever at the end, down towards the brake pad on the same side of the bike. Feed the grommet of the brake pad end of the cable through the hole in the retaining arm holding the brake pad.

Holding the grommet to stop it springing back through the hole with your subordinate hand, use your principal hand to take the Allen Key and tighten the retaining arm of the brake pad adjusting the orientation of the brake pad and the rim of the wheel as you go along. Just before the gripping point, pull the cable down to take up any slack, pulling any extra length down through the hole with your subordinate hand as you tighten with the Allen Key.

When the cable is held fast at the brake pad end and the brake pads are well aligned with the wheel rim, test for the correct tension on the brake lever and adjust the tension of the cable accordingly.

Repeat the process on the other side of the bike.

I hope this helps.

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The wound steel cable that connects your brake lever to the brake pads can be adjusted via a screw or nut at the top of the brake pad assembly. Simply loosen the assembly and gently tug the wire end toward the front of the bike tire to tighten brake grip; tug it backward to loosen. Tighten the screw partially to hold the cable in place, test the brakes with the brake lever, and adjust again if necessary before fully tightening. It may help to put the bike on a stand or hold it so that you can spin the wheel, check that the brakes are adjusted so that the pads do not rub the wheel. You can do the same thing with the rear brakes. You will need a small tool to loosen and tighten the brake pad assembly; your household toolbox should have something :)

While you are adjusting the brake tension you should also check the brake pads for signs of wear. If your bicycle brakes squeal, show uneven wear or are perfectly smooth, go to a shop and get a new set! Regular brake maintenance is very important for bike safety.

You have to bleed the break fluid on your break and press the pads on both sides then insert the disc. When you bleed the break fluid do not press the lever.

The most common problem that causes a loud rubbing sound is a tire, usually the back tire, rubbing on the frame, and you can usually see exactly where it is rubbing. Brakes can rub too, but they usually are not that loud, so let's assume it is the tire. This happens when the rear axle wasn't tight enough, and when you pedal hard or hit a pothole, it can make the axle pivot in the slots it fits in, and this lets the tire to rub on the frame, usually on the front part of the rear tire.
Solution: For this kind of work, I usually flip the bike upside down on an old piece of carpet, etc. so it is sitting on the seat and handlebars with the front wheel pointing straight ahead. There are two common methods to secure the axle:
1. Two pretty good sized nuts, one on each side. Find a wrench that fits just right. I prefer a socket, box end or open end wrench, one for each side. On metric nuts, it will often be 14mm or 15mm, sometimes bigger. American sizes are usually in the 9/16 - 5/8 - 11/16" range. I strongly discourage you from using any kind of pliers or even an adjustable (crescent) wrench. You have to tighten these babies pretty tight, and you can easily burr the corners off your nuts with adjustable tools, believe me I've done it. The tricky part is you have to do three things at once. First, you have to keep the front part of the tire evenly spaced between the two sides of the frame. Next, you have to slide both sides of the axle back in their slots until the chain has the proper tension. If you have a ten-speed style bike, the derailler mechanism will adjust the tension automatically for you, so slide the axle all the way back until the side with the gears is against the back of its slot, and let the other side move forward or back as needed for the tire to be centered between the frame. Finally, while you are keeping things lined up - a patient friend who is willing to help makes this much easier, just have them hold the tire so it is evenly spaced between the frame, and then you have to tighten the nuts. If you don't have a ten-speed style gear changer on the back tire, you have to take up most of the slack in the chain yourself and hold it tight until you get those nuts tight enough to keep the axle from slipping. Don't be surprised if you have to loosen up the nuts and do it again - on a single speed bike you should have about 1/4" to 1/2" of flex in the middle of the chain, halfway between the front and rear sprockets. Too tight, and it can wear out your bearings or chain well before their time. Too loose, and your chain will fall off at the worst possible moment, and you will have to do this process all over again, after you push your bike back home. Tighten a little on each side until things get snug, and if the tire is still centered between the frame, do both sides again, harder now (grunt a little this time, it helps) and you should be good to go. Remember, you are not trying to strip the axle threads, or break anything, but you do have to get it tight enough so it won't slip on you again.
2. Oh, yeah, there is another common method you find pretty often on ten-speed style bikes, the quick release.
This is an assembly that consists of a lever built onto the axle nut, and the lever is only on one side. You don't use a wrench on the quick release, but they are a little tricky until you understand how they work. As you pull the lever away from the frame, a cam inside loosens the axle, and as you push the lever toward the frame, it tightens. When the lever is in the loose position, you can also spin the nut on the axle tighter or looser (careful, it doesn't take much, and clockwise should be tighter on most bikes). Tightening or loosening the nut part does most of travel, and the lever does the last little bit. The lever is short, usually only 2-3 inches, so if you don't have to push pretty hard on the lever, the nut is probably too loose, and you need to loosen the lever and rotate the nut part clockwise a little bit, until it feels like the axle is getting really good and tight just about the time the lever gets close to the frame. This can also take 2-3 tries of loosening the lever, tightening or loosening the nut, and retightening the lever again, until it feels good and tight, and of course, you have to check your tire alignment one more time to make sure it is still nicely centered between the frame of the bike. Turn the wheel by hand a few turns to make sure it doesn't rub on the frame. If everything is tight, and your tire is still centered, you're ready for a test ride. Just up and down the driveway to start with, and make sure your brakes are okay. Then you can go a little farther, and pedal a little harder. Hopefully the axle will be nice and solid, and you can say, "Good Job! I fixed it myself, on Fixya!"

Loosen up the hub nuts. Center the wheel between brake pads. Put something like a screw driver in the space between wheel and frame to keep the wheel centered and not moving as you tighten the nuts.

this front::

1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel/tire assembly.
2. Remove lower bolt and caliper assembly. Position assembly aside using suitable wire.
3. Remove brake pads and shim.
4. Bottom piston in caliper using suitable tool.
5. Install new brake pads and attach shim to the outer pad. Tighten lower bolt to specifications.

this for rear::

1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel/tire assembly.

1. Remove axle nut, then the hub and drum assembly.
2. Remove end shoe springs, cylinder and hold-down spring.
3. Remove shoes and adjuster as an assembly.

1. Reverse removal procedure to install, noting the following:

1. Apply suitable grease to backing plate shoe contact surfaces.
2. Install shoe hold-down pin, then assemble return spring with the pushrod shortened.
3. Pull parking brake lever fully upward. Repeat process several times.